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LONG hairline crack


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HI, I have a really long hairline crack in a sculpture that just came out of bisque fire :/   The crack is from the base to the neck, goes all the way through but very thin. Been doing research regarding Bisque fix, Mend it and paper clay.  Looking for advise on which is better for hairline as cannot assure product completely fills the middle.   Really want to glaze this to cone 6 without it separating even if I have to rebisque.,

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I'm curious as well, as to what could possibly help with this. I hope some other members comment.  Can you get at it from the inside? I'm assuming the form is hollow. I would use Spooze (do a search-the recipe is by Peggy Heer)-and pray, myself.  I'd do a preheat, a slow glaze, and a long slow cool.

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8 hours ago, LeeU said:

I'm curious as well, as to what could possibly help with this. I hope some other members comment.  Can you get at it from the inside? I'm assuming the form is hollow. I would use Spooze (do a search-the recipe is by Peggy Heer)-and pray, myself.  I'd do a preheat, a slow glaze, and a long slow cool.

Thank you will look up recipe. Planned a slow glaze anyway but will rebisque noatter what solution I decide.  Yes it's hollow. 

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5 hours ago, Mark C. said:

Yes can you get to the inside of it??

Yes. The crack is the same inside and out. I have read about success with high fire mend.  Just hard to imagine getting all the way into that Crack. Not sure if I should dig out a bit before repairing or leave sides tight. 

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I think Peggy's spooze works better than the purchased high fiber mend you buy.   If you have not done any crack repair before I would practice on some other cracked pieces.   If you can reach the inside I would widen the crack and compact a mend that has paper clay in it.   I am afraid that the sculpture will twist when it is fired and the repair will fail,  all you can do is try.   Sculpture of any size needs some support inside of it.       Denice

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I don't think there's anything you can do to fix it at this point. If it were mine, I'd either leave it as is and just paint it, which would hide the cracks -bisque takes paint very well- or go ahead and fire it again and if the cracks get bigger, fill them and paint it to hide the repair. But it will be more difficult to paint once it's vitrified. If you're worried about the cracks making the piece weak, you could use some gorilla glue and fabric to strengthen it from the inside.

Chances are the cracks came from the piece being too thick or uneven in thickness.

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Is keeping it as a low fired sculpture an option? Spooze  made with some very fine paper fibre has a slim chance of filling the “hare”line crack (sorry, couldn’t help the bad pun) but I really don’t think it’s going to mend its structure, more of a cosmetic filler. At ^6 I think it’s going to open up more. Beautiful work!

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2 hours ago, Mark C. said:

I have a product that is super liquid-it shows a line but you could soak it into the backside crack-its very fluid .I'll get the anme next trip out to studio .

Recently a friend showed me his crack conceal strategy that was about like this.  It was similar to super glue and could be filled with whatever.  The super liquid part allows it to be sucked into the crack.

What was your plan for finishing?  Glaze application, or something else? 

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17 minutes ago, CactusPots said:

Recently a friend showed me his crack conceal strategy that was about like this.  It was similar to super glue and could be filled with whatever.  The super liquid part allows it to be sucked into the crack.

What was your plan for finishing?  Glaze application, or something else? 

Thanks much. Interested to see what it is.  

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2 hours ago, CactusPots said:

Recently a friend showed me his crack conceal strategy that was about like this.  It was similar to super glue and could be filled with whatever.  The super liquid part allows it to be sucked into the crack.

What was your plan for finishing?  Glaze application, or something else? 

Really wanted to glaze to Cone 6 with a slow cool 

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I have used most commercial products for bisque repair (I fire to come 10 reduction) most leave a discolored line-bisque fix is one of the whitest. Hi fire mender is the best color match as you add your own clay body to the powered cement. then mix up wet. Most of these are thick and will not soak int a small crack line

The one that is thin is Mr Marks Ware Repair sold at the Ceramic shop in Philadelphia . It leaves a darker line but is super fliud. I suggest you use it on the inside-if it weeps out sand thae extra off on the outside. You could also top coat the inside over the Ware Repair (once dried) with bisque fix as this stuff works the best but also shows the most. On the inside it will not matter.

Now also assume your crack will open some so glaze some colors so that does not show as much -or use runny glaze so it fills in during the fire.

Edited by Mark C.
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  • 6 months later...

While posting another question I realised I had not updated this one.  I did fire it with high fire mend repair.  The legs that had broken as greenware held with their toilet paper bandaids no prob but the hair line popped huge and i ended up using oil paint and Apoxie clay yo try and match the glaze in an attempt to fill it.  Lesson learned, use the right clay for the right project and never assume it will fire the same color from bisque to glaze.  Newbie mistake.  Thanks for your help 

 

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