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Argh!! Giffin grip gripe, anyone else have issues?


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On 5/28/2020 at 12:08 PM, Pres said:

I have been using a GG since they first came out years ago. I had at that time been doing all of the other options, centering on wheel head, wet thrown chucks, bisque thrown chucks, hump chucks for bowls, bowl chucks. All that said, when it came to large platters, or chalices, or really tall narrow vases, pitchers with pulled and uneven tops, or some other pieces, these options were often frustrating or inadequate. Along came the GG, and I first relearned how to trim, how to place the arms for best trimming, when to use just the pads on the bottom or use arms or use the reversed pads for large diameters. Then I started using plumbing parts to create chucks for things like chalice stems, or trimming honey jar lids or other pieces. Go back to not using the GG, NEVER! Do I still center by hand, on occasion, but compare the time for 50 mug trims by hand centering and by using a GG. The experienced GG user will beat the centering by hand easily, and the result is the same.

IMHO

 

best,

Pres

Pres -- could you post a pic of those "plumbing parts"?  I LOVE my Giffen Grip!  Only problem is trimming the foot on -- for instance -- a tall narrow necked bottle.  The head of the piece (pointing downward and touching the wheel) moves off center.  I try to resolve this problem by using clay lugs around the head to secure it or by letting the head rest on (and pushed slightly into) a thin layer of clay.  But all these methods leave a bit to be desired.  Seems to me that what is needed is a GG accessory that mounts in the center, is shaped like a cone, and extends upward to a point so that the mouth of the bottle fits over it and holds it secure.

Edited by Rick Wise
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Rick, Check out some of my earlier blog posts. There is a post that shows using a plumbing set up for trimming chalice stems. Your problem involves a little more ingenuity. First I would look for a 3" to 2" reducer, or any PVC reducer that would help you start. Double sided tape on the bottom would allow you to attach it to the GG. Then use your GG arms to hold the bottle in place. Take a walk through the plumbing section, lots of possibilities there, and I hope that looking at some of my tools will help you out. Near the Chalice trimming post is a post on a reducer used to trim lids to an exact diameter. That may help also.

 

best,

Pres

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  • 1 month later...

I was working on some lids today that have a galley that wraps around the rim for a more tight storage jar. the outside of these lids I want to be the same on all, and the GG used iin the normal manner gets in the way of trimming  adding accent lines to the edges. As with some bowls that I don't want the height of the sliders without grips, I have a simple solution. I do reverse the grips with the sliders holes to the outside, then I reverse my wheel also. the sliders and grips hold the lid or bowl in place, and the clockwise motion lets the centrifugal force hold the sliders out. Hope that makes sense, but then if you use a GG often you have probably figured this trick out.

 

best,

Pres

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My two As do not my two Bs do not my  C does not and my CXC (from 1982) does not as well

of couse they are not modern wheels-the As are not made anymore-the Bs are from the 90s the C is from 1969 or1970 bought new  but has all new everything except deck.The CXC is from 82 bought new. One of my As is new in box still . Not sure what I''m going to do with it.

I sold a model B recently-in super shape (near new) for $500 with extras.

I did not need 6 wheels down to 5 and one is in a box new. I bought it as new old stock.

I get the inside reverse sliders deal as well. Makes sense.

I think Brent did not have reversing wheels until late 90s? what years yours?

Edited by Mark C.
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I think I bought mine late 80's. Purchased from a Florida firm, best price on the east coast, with a special deal one month only Free Shipping! Love that wheel. It was quite a step from my Amaco motorized kick wheel. That one sits in the basement now, and I doubt I could ever get it out.

 

 

best,

Pres

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  • 7 months later...
On 5/27/2020 at 6:05 PM, cstovin said:

I am about to toss this thing through the window; I’m at a loss....I’ve had it about a year, have a shimpco whisper wheel.

its taking me 15 minutes minimum to trim a wine cup; I have a bat under the trimmer, there is over 1/8” of play once it’s tight to the pottery; 

once I get something centered, it’s constantly knocked off center because the hands don’t grip tight enough?  Out of 15 cups, I have 7 now that aren’t terrible but the doors are lopsided

 

anyone else have issues like this?  I called the place I got it from, “too bad”;  this was supposed to make life faster and easier; I HATE trimming on a piece of foam, but even that’s better?

any ideas?

Hi @cstovin! I work for Giffin Grip. We're sorry you're having these issues. It sounds like something that can be remedied though. A couple of thoughts I have right off the bat (pun intended!):

1) The Wheel Whisper has posed a problem since it entered the market. The original GG was not designed for wheels that stopped so quickly. When you stop the Wheel Whisper, it stops immediately. This can slightly backtrack/loosen the GG hands, which tighten on centrifugal force. We're working on a fix for this, but for now we recommend that potters simply let off the pedal slightly slower. This will be a better habit for throwing, too, as the Wheel Whisper can actually throw pots out of round when they're west because of this.

2) The rods/hands could be assembled incorrectly. The new rubber hands have an extra "step" to secure them on the rod: when you put them together, were you able to feel a second "pop" when seating the rubber hands? Double check all of them, because if even one of them isn't seated all the way down, it'll throw off the centering. Frustrating, but a simple fix!

3) The bottom brackets could be loose or damaged. If this is the case, we will absolutely replace them! Check that the black bottom brackets are snug but not too tight — if you've had to bang your GG down on the wheel head to get it to secure, they're too tight. This could cause the plastic to stretch out over time, loosening the hold and throwing the GG off center.

If none of these are helpful, we will still figure this out! Please email info@giffingrip.com and put CUSTOMER SERVICE in the subject line. We want happy customers and will work with you to make sure the GG is up to par! :)

Aly

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  • 3 months later...

Are you still having this issue?  Mine is completely new and I’m having the same issue.  As the wheel spins, the grip loosens.  I made sure it was for a counterclockwise wheel and “right handed”.  Please help.  I attach mine directly to the wheel head.

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My Giffin Grip loosens, I've learned that I need to tighten it every so often. I have a Shimpo VL Whisper Wheel and someone said that the Giffin Grip can be a problem with this wheel. Personally, I would rather stop & tighten it than trim without it.

I know that my response didn't help to solve your problem...sorry, but unless someone has a solution, it might just a be a matter of recognizing that you have to stop and tighten it every once in awhile. 

Edited by Bam2015
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I have 3 giffens and never do they lossen. I have used one for 3-4 deacdes now. I think this must be all operator issues. If the grip is counter clockwise then the wheel must be counter clockwise. When the grip gets dirty they get very hard to move either direction. I take mine apart now and then and clean it and spray a small amout of silicone spray -then it slides to easy for a day or two. You can also drag your pant leg on it to keep it tight (never had to do this) I suggest reading the setup instructions again as this sounds like its not setup right. The slick washers go on the bottom under the 0-ring.Are you 100%v yoiu have the counterclockwise model?

Brand of wheel should play NO part in this as a wheel spins as a wheel spins-no matter the brand. The grip adjusts to any size wheelhead at setup.When adjusted right you do not have to  stop and tighten 

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25 minutes ago, Mark C. said:

Brand of wheel should play NO part in this as a wheel spins as a wheel spins-no matter the brand. The grip adjusts to any size wheelhead at setup.When adjusted right you do not have to  stop and tighten 

Well, actually, there is a problem that is specific to the Shimpo Whisper, Giffin has acknowledged it and is trying to develop a solution. I don't know the progress on that. The physics principle involved is that when you accelerate the wheelhead, the differential momentum of the accelerating wheelhead (which the lower part of the Grip is attached to by the friction of the legs) vs. upper plate of the Grip which is still stationary or rotating at a slower speed will cause the pads to move slightly inward on their spiral tracks to maintain the grip on your piece. With the direct drive electronically controlled motor of the Shimpo Whisper, when you take your foot off the pedal to stop, it stops so fast that the differential momentum between the top and bottom plates of the Grip reverses, the top plate keeps spinning slightly after the wheelhead stops, and the pads are moved slightly outward on their spiral tracks. Every other brand of wheel comes to a stop slowly enough that the friction between the top and bottom plates of the Grip keeps everything in place.

@AlexX If your wheel turns counterclockwise for throwing, etc. , then the top plate of the Grip should rotate clockwise when the wheel is stopped to tighten the pads. Hold a finger against the side of the wheelhead to be certain it doesn't move, and turn the top plate of the Grip each way to see which direction causes the pads to move in and which direction causes them to move out. If they move inward with a clockwise turn, then you have the counterclockwise model. If they move inward with a counterclockwise turn, then you have the clockwise model. Yeah, that's a head spinner in more ways than one... The upper and lower plates of the Grip need to be rotating in opposite directions with respect to each other to tighten.

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(With the direct drive electronically controlled motor of the Shimpo Whisper, when you take your foot off the pedal to stop, it stops so fast that the differential momentum between the top and bottom plates of the Grip reverses, the top plate keeps spinning slightly after the wheelhead stops, and the pads are moved slightly outward on their spiral tracks. )

So Dick  this is only an issue when stopping  or starting it sounds like ? As the poster said he has to stop when trimming to tighten it up? That means it lossening up up while rotating I think? Something else sounds to be at play here.The lefty loosy or righty  tighty could be the issue as you pointed out

I have demonstrated on a few whispers but never used a grip on one. I did not notice the instant stop only the quite noise  free operation and that I was able to slow the wheel down with larger forms centering  and the splash pans seemed a bit odd.

I'm from simpler times where all my 5 wheels turn the same way and cannot go backwards-No choice for me is the best choice. Too many options theses days only adds to the confusion I feel.  Ceramics is hard enough. My orginal teacher in 1969 would not let folks throw counterclockwise  no matter how left handed they were on a kick wheel. We all seemed to master it anyways. Hey you can now buy a pink wheel or a black wheel or a turquoise color as well.

Camo soon to follow then you will not be able to find the thing in a dark studio

 

Edited by Mark C.
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Lucky for me, the switches on (most of) the wheels where I started out, and the "up to you" instructor, for the operational state of my right eye, left elbow, right wrist, right middle finger tip, etc., etc., makes counter clock inordinately difficult.

Were it not for said switches, perhaps I'd have found which leads to reverse.

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