Stacking Glazed Plates

[Skip]

I am a new potter and have made some dinner plates. When I stack them in the cupboard should I put something between the plates to keep the rough bottom of a plate from rubbing the plate beneath it?

[liambesaw]

8 minutes ago, Skip said:

I am a new potter and have made some dinner plates. When I stack them in the cupboard should I put something between the plates to keep the rough bottom of a plate from rubbing the plate beneath it?

Sand the bottom so it's not rough.  Buy this: .https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VYPL5M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_95b8DbP0Q9NP8  Slap it on a bat, lubricate well, and go to town on the bottom of your plates and mugs and whatever else you don't want marking up tAbles and counters and whatnot.

I stack plates and bowls in the cupboard and they dont scratch each other.

 

[Skip]

My plates have a flat bottom and the top has a slightly raised swirl pattern.

[Skip]

Thank you so much for this great tip. What do you lubricate it with, water or some kind of oil?

11 minutes ago, liambesaw said:

Sand the bottom so it's not rough.  Buy this: .https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VYPL5M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_95b8DbP0Q9NP8  Slap it on a bat, lubricate well, and go to town on the bottom of your plates and mugs and whatever else you don't want marking up tAbles and counters and whatnot.

I stack plates and bowls in the cupboard and they dont scratch each other.

 

 

[Skip]

1 minute ago, Skip said:

Thank you so much for this great tip. What do you lubricate it with, water or some kind of oil?

 

Sorry for this second question. How do you attach it to the bat?

[liambesaw]

You can use silicone caulking to adhere it to a bat.  I just put a piece of sticky shelf liner on the bat and put the disc on top of that and let pressure do the work.  Use plenty of water to lubricate.

[JohnnyK]

You might try sanding the bisque plates before glazing...do a test to see if the bisque sanding works so that you don't screw up a good plate...

[Skip]

3 hours ago, liambesaw said:

You can use silicone caulking to adhere it to a bat.  I just put a piece of sticky shelf liner on the bat and put the disc on top of that and let pressure do the work.  Use plenty of water to lubricate.

Thanks so much!!

[Skip]

19 minutes ago, JohnnyK said:

You might try sanding the bisque plates before glazing...do a test to see if the bisque sanding works so that you don't screw up a good plate...

Thanks, I’ll try it.

[neilestrick]

I just use 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper (the black stuff).

[Skip]

8 minutes ago, neilestrick said:

I just use 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper (the black stuff).

Thanks, so many good tips. Do you sand bisqueware or after glazing?

[neilestrick]

33 minutes ago, Skip said:

Thanks, so many good tips. Do you sand bisqueware or after glazing?

I never sand bisque. Too much dust. If you do a good job with smoothing and cleanup when trimming you shouldn't need to sand bisque.

[liambesaw]

Whenever I've tried sanding bisque it seems to pull up grog, which is weird because my clay has no palpable grog.

I do have to do it sometimes though, I miss some chunkies once in a while and need to get them down before j glaze.

[Magnolia Mud Research]

Make terra-sig from your clay body and apply and burnish the bottoms or foot rims.  Then you will not need to grind the surface after the firing.  

[Hulk]

Burnishing - after trimming, whilst still damp/leatherhard - might help as well. I smooth foot ring and trimmed area with a metal rib before removing trimmed piece from the wheel; the inner corners and any grooves respond well to the outer edge of a small loop tool.

[Callie Beller Diesel]

Prevention of burrs is less work than sanding for sure. Work clean, and putting your pieces on a very smooth surface to dry is a big help too. I second Neil’s use of 220 grit set/dry sandpaper for anything that gets missed. 
 

I’m going to point out though that if your glaze is scratched easily by a reasonably finished foot rim this glaze may have durability issues, and might not be the best choice for plates.