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GoodKarma

Glaze re-fire, faded colors & adding glaze?

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HeIlo all,

Well, I got my first TWO glaze fires done! WOOHOO!!! Mostly happy with the results, but some came out needing another coat of glaze (the stain I used was VERY light and pieces came out looking plain/white/dull).  I had some crazing on this bowl, (which I assume is because I put the glaze on too thick), it only happened with this one bowl and only on the inside.... SO..

1. If I re-fire it, will the colors on the outside of the bowl fade?

2. Should I re-fire as-is, or should I add a thin layer of clear glaze on the inside?

Thanks in advance for any & all info!!

craze.jpg

craze2.jpg

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Hi Karma!

Good news on that crazed interior would be that the pattern is big, hence you're close; not sure if firing again would heal the craze.

ooh, per Liamb's post, looked closer, aaah. Do the craze lines form squares/shapes that are less than 1/8 inch?

...I din' look closely enough...

Edited by Hulk
oops

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7 hours ago, Hulk said:

Do the craze lines form squares/shapes that are less than 1/8 inch?

What is the significance of the pattern of the crazing? What does it tell us? Thanks-

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I realized after what you said that this bowl was stoneware, and the rest were porcelain, so I guess it IS a bad fit... suppose I'll keep this bowl for myself as a fruit bowl.^_^

Second part of question though.... does the color of glaze/stain FADE if they get re-fired? (I have some pieces that didn't craze, (porcelain), but the colors aren't appealing, so I'd like to re-glaze and re-fire)

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15 minutes ago, GoodKarma said:

Second part of question though.... does the color of glaze/stain FADE if they get re-fired? (I have some pieces that didn't craze, (porcelain), but the colors aren't appealing, so I'd like to re-glaze and re-fire)

Glazes tend to run more in a second firing as there has already been heatwork applied to them. Underglaze colour is pretty stable but glaze colours can shift. If you do refire the pieces then for your kiln shelf protection put thin waster cookies of clay under the pots so if the glaze runs it will land on the waster cookie and not your shelf.  For your porcelain you can put some kiln wash on them but not necessary for stoneware (wasters can be reused). Refires are a crap shoot, sometimes they work and sometimes not so much but if you don't like the pots the way they are now theres nothing to loose.

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karma,   nothing from me about your question but i noticed that your carving tool could be improved.   do not know what you use but there is a good tool that just cuts through the colored part into the clay sharply, leaving straight lines.   i use a speedball scratch knife number 113.   it comes in a package with a number 112 for under $5.  both are useful but the curve of the 113 can be made tighter by squeezing the end with a pliers so it is not so wide.   you might like using it if you plan to carve much of your work.  it fits into a pen holder easily.

good luck with your firings.

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hulk, that is the exact opposite bevel to the one i use.   and yours is flat so it does not gather and disperse the crumbs.  that is what the curved "like an eagle talon" shape does for me.

 the very best one was discontinued in the 1970s and i think i bought the last two in existence back then.  long worn down too much to use.  the Speedball is a poor substitute but the best one i have found.

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Oh, aye that; here's the 112 and 113.

I'm cutting, grinding, heating, bending, and sharpening cutting and trimming tools from available materials (e.g. old/dull saw blades) where I'd like to try something a bit different.

 

oh kay.jpg

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