liambesaw Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 25 minutes ago, Min said: Yeah, I think oil lamps are one of the most problematic things to have not leak. I think it has to do with the polarity of the lamp oil molecules versus that of water molecules or veg oils. I remember about 20 years ago there seemed to be a lot of potters making oil lamps and running into problems with weeping. All sorts of sealers were tried then it seems we just moved on from making them. Too much liability. I've made oil bottles at ^10 and 6, for ^10 I used Robins Clear and for ^6 I use my low COE clear. I don't think the glaze is hugely important as the oil molecules will find their way through any glaze flaws or pinholes over time, can't see any flaws that will be inside the bottles. I think the clay itself has to be able to resist the oil from weeping through. Usually it just takes "seasoning" to stop that kind of stuff. Lots of seasonings would probably work, including lamp oil itself, but who wants to sit around seasoning a bunch of lamps for who knows how long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 1 hour ago, Min said: I think the clay itself has to be able to resist the oil from weeping through. Good point. What're your 1% absorption clays? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 1 hour ago, liambesaw said: Usually it just takes "seasoning" to stop that kind of stuff. Lots of seasonings would probably work, including lamp oil itself, but who wants to sit around seasoning a bunch of lamps for who knows how long. So you think if I heated my hypothetical oil bottles filled with oil to whatever temperature cast iron skillets are seasoned, let them cool slowly, and drained them (recycle the oil), they might be seasoned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 10 minutes ago, Rae Reich said: So you think if I heated my hypothetical oil bottles filled with oil to whatever temperature cast iron skillets are seasoned, let them cool slowly, and drained them (recycle the oil), they might be seasoned? I was thinking maybe something a little more saturated like palm, coconut, even soy wax or something. Heating lamp oil would be really dangerous. Something that might swell in the presence of oil like bentonite mixed with a thinner oil like grapeseed might work too, would require testing on some little tester bowls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 1 hour ago, liambesaw said: I was thinking maybe something a little more saturated like palm, coconut, even soy wax or something. Heating lamp oil would be really dangerous. Something that might swell in the presence of oil like bentonite mixed with a thinner oil like grapeseed might work too, would require testing on some little tester bowls. Sorry, should have said my hypothetical bottles were for food oil. Your ideas are intriguing. Agree that that process would not be recommended for lamp oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Might even use sodium silicate or soda ash and fire it as a glaze. I know sodium silicate is used as a high pressure sealant because it gets into tiny cracks and heat sets it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 2 hours ago, Rae Reich said: What're your 1% absorption clays? For cone 10 Laguna B-Mix and for cone 6 Plainsman M370. I've been using the same oil bottle made from M370 for about 15 years, no leaks. I've never had any customer complaints about them weeping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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