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Screw Adjustments on the back of Olympics


MFP

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Neil,

During this cone 6 fire, the front of this lid lifted up at least a half inch.  It was flush in the back and gradually raised up more and more until it was open a half inch under the handle. Does this imply that it might be too tight or too loose? I looked at it and it did not appear to be doming as we had thought previously. It did achieve cone 6. I put a cone on the shelf to see what temp it was on the shelf. Have not opened it yet. I put a cone 4-6 glaze on that shelf just in case.

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6 hours ago, MFP said:

Neil,

During this cone 6 fire, the front of this lid lifted up at least a half inch.  It was flush in the back and gradually raised up more and more until it was open a half inch under the handle. Does this imply that it might be too tight or too loose? I looked at it and it did not appear to be doming as we had thought previously. It did achieve cone 6. I put a cone on the shelf to see what temp it was on the shelf. Have not opened it yet. I put a cone 4-6 glaze on that shelf just in case.

Lids do lift, but 1/2" is a little more than I'd expect. You can put a latch on the front of the lid to help keep it down. Also make sure it's sitting evenly all the way around. If the hinge has dropped down a little bit, there's more pressure back there and the front will raise more. If the hinge itself isn't adjustable, then you can loosen the body band and move it up a little.

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Yes....cone 6 was just starting to bend in the top whereas it was fully down on the lower shelves. How do I put a latch on it?  It has that typical Olympic lid arrangement with the three rods---I was wondering if I removed the center rod during the firing if that would help?

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15 hours ago, MFP said:

Yes....cone 6 was just starting to bend in the top whereas it was fully down on the lower shelves. How do I put a latch on it?  It has that typical Olympic lid arrangement with the three rods---I was wondering if I removed the center rod during the firing if that would help?

Use one of THESE. You can get them at the hardware store.

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If you remove the hinge rod, the lid won't lift in the front, because there won't be a pivot point any more. It will likely lift more or less evenly all around. What actually happens is that the bricks in the center expand more than the bricks at the edge, and the center bricks expand downward, which forces the edge bricks upward. You get a contact lens type shape. You can do that or latch it. I think pulling the rod will be a pain in the long run, whereas the latch is quick and easy.

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I contacted Olympic They sent me the  troubleshooting page for this problem. When the kiln is hot, you loosen the screws on the hinges of the lid until the lid fits flush again. Then you tighten  them up again.

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Contacted Olympic....they sent me their PDF for this problem. When it is hot, you loosen the screws in the lid hinges until it lays flat and then tighten them again.  Since they have it in their troubleshooting manual, it must be a fairly common problem. It's on page 56. It's too big to upload here.

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Got it downloaded...but this site does not upload pdf files  :( It also won't copy and paste. I don't have the conversion program. You can download the  entire manual directing from the Olympic site. It is on page 56 of the trouble shooting section.  They just have  one generic manual for all their kiln. 

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