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I was bequeathed an old Brent pottery wheel that has not been used for some time . I would like help in determining the model so that I can order parts, etc. where needed. Although I was expecting it not to be in working condition, I was surprised upon plugging it in and turning it on that the motor and wheel head ran quite smoothly. However, I suspect because of its evident age and use (or abuse) that parts will need to be repaired or replaced. This is the problem, I cannot find or determine the model number or approx date of manufacture (there are no model/serial number plates attached). There are some clues to its age  and model, however (see pics): it has a yellow gold-color plastic deck (not steel) with perimeter ridge; the 12-inch wheel head (with bat pins 10-inch apart) has a flange beneath it to house a splash pan; the  belt drive has a 4-ridge-3-groove belt; not sure of the motor HP but could be 1/2 HP; the motor housing is a blue-gray color; the foot pedal looks really old and instead of having "brent wheels" written on it, it is marked "robert brent" in the same script; the controller has no markings (perhaps worn/scraped off) and is in very dodgy condition.  I am assuming that at a minimum the controller and foot pedal should be replaced and probably the belt too. The wheel head seems in reasonably good condition and there was not any unusual or aberrant noise when it ran. The top speed seemed a bit slower than I would like but I assume that this could be the fault of the pedal.  I think the bearings are still OK. Would appreciate any info on age and model. Pete D

footpedal.jpg

Motor-belt-1.jpg

wheelhead-1.jpg

Motor-belt-2.jpg

wheelhead-2.jpg

Motor-belt-3.jpg

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Please post a photo of your controller front and back-I have someinfo for you but need to see that controller as you have no photos of that and thats key to aging this model.

The good news is this is not as old as you think with the 4 grove belts.Any info on motor plate?

Edited by Mark C.
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Sinve I have yet to seee your controller I will say looking at what you have that wheel is from the very late70s or early 80s-My guess is 1980

The deck is plastic and the wheel head has the splash pan flange which they went to in later middle 70s

The motor is the old blue ones and I do not see anywhere that the bruches can be changed by owners. All the newer motors (mid 80s and up) have brush knobs on the side to access the brushes. The older motors where all blue but the lower cap was more rounded than yours.

That wheel could be model C 1/2 HP  or a CXC 1 HP both had 14 inch wheel heads although it was an extra on  model C then if I recall.

Also your 4 grove belt tells me its not from the 70s.

My CXC from 1982 has the newer name plate on pedal as well-putting your a few years earlier.

That pedal is a fine one as its the same as all the others except the casting name.

Again a photo of your controller would really help pin point the year

Use it until it fails and then replace the part that needs it.

As to replacing parts-Brent bearings on the wheel head are not reapairable-you buy the whole wheel head with bearings -so in thats a 14 inch wheel head if you need that-which I doubt you ever will.Its a three bold job and you will need a 3 jawed wheel puller mostlikley to remove pully underneath.

The motor if it goes just send it back to them and they will send you a replacement. Same deal with the controller . The foot pedal is a straight out replacement but all you will ever need is the potentiometer inside it as thats all that can go wrong (yours is the  solder in type)

Enjoy your wheell I have and use one thats 10 years older than your newer one so  Iknow they last and one last note-your deck is steel its just covered with that plastic top as all Brent wheels have been since 1972. I have one of his first ones that has a flat formica top with no ridged plastic top-these where made 1969-1971 only.

 

Edited by Mark C.
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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I also have an old Brent wheel, 1972.  I've used it for years, have had to adjust head, but no major work. It has dripped a bit of oil. There is a mark for the oil level, but no way to see what the level is and don't know where to add oil.  Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks

 

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Hi amc!

Your Brent drives the wheel head via gearbox? The later models are belt driven (see OPs images, above); am recalling a thread on Brent CX gearbox here somewhere....

...ah! Brent CX 1973 lube change - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community

As somewhat ungracefully pointed out, the unit under discussion there is, err, appears to be an Amaco (apparently, Amaco acquired Brent); the OP called it a Brent.

Am not recalling finding documentation on refilling/changing the gearbox oil, nor the oil spec*.

There's an entry here clayart - thread '2 speed amaco wheel' (potters.org)

"Nothing wrong with the Amaco wheel, you might change the gearbox oil as
a standard maintenance (there are little set screw type plugs in various
places on the gear box.) Replace with a good quality gear oil (about 90
weight). It is important that the gear box not be over nor under
filled. I think there is a either a mark on the side or a screw on the
side that you fill up until it begins to leak out of (about 1/2 to 2/3
of the way up the side of the gear box).
The nice variable speed wheels that we have now kind of spoil us. I
bought one of those not too long ago at a garage sale, paid around
$50.00 for it. My son uses it, not being at a point where he wants to
invest in something more expensive yet."

Looks like the 2C is/was variable speed, the 1 model is/was the two speed model.

*Selecting the appropriate oil may be important:

  hypoid for hypoid gears - my understanding is hypoid rated oil is more than ok for straight cut gears;

  heavier weight than spec may not readily flow into the space where it is needed;

  lighter weight than spec may not afford the film strength required to protect the mating surfaces.

Edited by Hulk
fully baked
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I answered this one via email. I have a potter friend thathad the older Super heavy duty gearbox Brent CXC from before plastic deck days 1970-71

He recommends multi viscosity gear/tranny oil 85-140 , also straight 85 or 90 will work fine as well-both are gear box oils. The plug is either square or allen head to remove on gearbox side. Drain old oil out. If its dripping its most likely someone used car motor oild which is to thin and will leak. Fill to plug level (when it overflows its full) A pump will aid in this but you can turn it on its side fill and  fill then put down and when its stops flowing out plug it and call it full. This  Gear box model is in my orginal brochure from Brent in 1969-70.Its direct drive and is a super tough /heavy wheel-the orginal CXC-splash pans where galvanized sheet metal. I had one on my orginal Brent until it rusted away.

Edited by Mark C.
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  • 2 months later...

I have just bought a very old Robert Brent C wheel, here in New Zealand.   Reading the comments above seems to age it even further. It has a yellow formica top , and made from heavy duty steel painted black. It no longer has a splash pan, so will figure out a way to make one. Any information about it would be of interest. It doesn't have any sort of belt guard. Wondering if they did back then?

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Hi Sharyn!

JohnnyK made a splash pan, as I recall ...ah!

See his post, top of page three - good idea, that.

Anyone Have A Really Old Creative Industries Model Mp Wheel? - Page 3 - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community

Old model C, hrmm, that also rings a bell, ...ah II!

Unidentified Older Brent Wheel - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community

Mark points out that the new pans may not fit the older model.

Hope your Brent runs strong and true for a very long time. Post back an update, eh (and pics)?

Edited by Hulk
page three
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For many years all thru the 70s Brent had no belt guards does your shaft under the wheel head have a flange? That is for a Brent splashpan to clip into.  If it has no flange then it’s flat deck (no lip around edge) most likely and is from the early 70s

can you post a photo of the front of controller (on off switch)

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