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Tom Coleman's Decorating Colors


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I've seen the beautiful results of some of Tom Coleman's pots (see attachment jpeg) that I'm assuming he has applied by trailing the decorating colors.  Has anyone use these colors?  I read on Aardvark Clay and Supplies website that these colors are applied on glazed bisque ware, so after the glaze(s) are applied on the bisqued pot, then the glazed pot is re-bisqued fired and then  the over glaze trailing of these colors.  Is this the application sequence of the colors?

Can these colors be applied over a glaze?  Any suggestions?

50920410_2267799940212192_3675445936026288128_n.jpg

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I think. Glaze pots add your devorative onglaze colours and washes and fire glazed ware as normal.

Folk s.times spray hairspray or starch to "harden " glaze before applying onglaze as the glaze will possibly adhere to a brush. Glaze will soak up the moisture in the onglaze material really fast so lay colour on as opposed to applying and pressure.

 

Have to make the onglaze painterly...glycerine, and other products around.

Having said all that some folk fire 3-4 times to get special affects...

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2 hours ago, scottiebie said:

I read on Aardvark Clay and Supplies website that these colors are applied on glazed bisque ware, so after the glaze(s) are applied on the bisqued pot, then the glazed pot is re-bisqued fired and then  the over glaze trailing of these colors.  Is this the application sequence of the colors?

Coleman Deco Colours directions say to apply them over glazed bisqueware. I don't read the directions as you would have to re-bisque the pot with the base glazes on, especially since the Deco Colours are in little squeeze bottles for trailing. Think you would do your ground glaze colour on the bisque, then layer your swathes of coloured glazes on the background glaze then glaze trail the Deco Colours on top of everything. Could try making your own glazes to trail by thickening up some of your current glaze(s) with epsom salts or apt II and give them a try, might flow more but that could be nice too.

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if you look at the coleman website, there is a contact email address with a space for questions.   the email address is tomelainec@gmail.com

tom and elaine are two of the nicest people you could ever know.  just ask for clarification.  maybe send this series of posts so they see the confusion.

whatever you do, do look at their website and drool over all the photos of their work.

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  • 5 months later...

I am loading my first cone 6 fire right now. I have six clay bodies and 18 glazes in there. I will try it next fire maybe. Although I might have to glaze up a couple of things to complete the load....kind of hard to do without any real glazes yet!  I have three Amaco celadons. The one plate I did a stencil on did not turn out at all the way I thought it would. But of course, it is not entirely fired yet.  The colors did not differentiate the way I thought they would.  This mid range electric oxidation is all new to me!

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3 hours ago, CactusPots said:

I seriously doubt he uses any commercial glazes at all.

Looks to me like the Coleman pot in the first post of this thread is using these Coleman ^10 reduction glazes for the swathes of colour then these Coleman Deco Colors trailed on top of the swathes of glazes. Since they are his glazes and Deco Colors I would have to assume he doesn't buy them but they are available commercially through Ardvark Clays.

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On 8/15/2019 at 11:11 AM, elysiumstarz said:

dZEEOdq.jpgmoLvaZ0.jpgI have used these on greenware (used multiple layers bc they dry fast) and fired to bisque (pastel pic). They are a bit flakey, but no problem bc I applied multiple layers! Then I applied clear glaze over the top, fired to cone 10 (2nd pic). Nice and bright. 

Looks like yoyu are adfing clay to a driwd tile. Is this so or have you yet to carve the area TLH corner

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the coleman plate shown has been sprayed.   the colors go on top of the dried but not fired base glaze.  the larger shapes of the brightly colored areas are controlled by using a cardboard or something like it to prevent colors from some areas.  the tiny red lines are trailed.

this is not the way tom currently works.  he did a number of really strange things when he moved from oregon to las vegas as a reaction to people telling him to "loosen up" his very beautifully controlled work up til then.   read the first book about his working toward a special show and then the second one written years later.  the 1978 title is The mud-pie dilemma and the second is something close, i only have the first book.

he has lent his name to the colored glazes but he does make his own glazes and fires to cone 10 or more.  

 

 

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Ive used UG over white like majolica. The issue is don’t use too much UG over the glaze. No matter which company a thick coat comes out dry. Though I’m talking about cone 6. Ive seen Velvet on clay and no glaze come out bright and matte - on sculptural pieces at ^10.

However know that if you are painting v. Tight designs over the glaze they will move with the glaze. So the design on the side of the cup may go all wonky but the floor of the bowl might not.

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