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hitchmss

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3 hours ago, hitchmss said:

I have built in enough space in the one studio room to store 4 tons there. Depending on how quickly, and thoroughly I fill up the studio, Id probably have enough room to do as you say, and buy clay once per year. As it is now, 10 tons is the most Ive burned through one year, but maybe in the future.

I'm the person who orders one big order for some other smaller users (combine all orders) and we get the price break  on clay materials.

Its a bit of paperwork but worth it.I also work thru a materials handler for good trucking rates.

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9 minutes ago, Mark C. said:

I'm the person who orders one big order for some other smaller users (combine all orders) and we get the price break  on clay materials.

Its a bit of paperwork but worth it.I also work thru a materials handler for good trucking rates.

Learned long ago to get your own transport/logistics broker when moving a lot of stuff.  Good advice

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I'm not finding an alternative to sanding bisque for chatter marks; some of the chips stick - even when the clay is just right an' the chips (mostly) fly. Damper clay deforms a bit at each chip mark. After bisque, unwanted bits and ridges turn to dust - can't be pushed back into the form. It does take a few minutes, however, I'm really liking chatter marks.

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28 minutes ago, Mark C. said:

I'm the person who orders one big order for some other smaller users (combine all orders) and we get the price break  on clay materials.

Its a bit of paperwork but worth it.I also work thru a materials handler for good trucking rates

Smart! If I can find some other locals who will use some clay from an order, that would save me having to store all the clay myself. Only downside to this new studio is the unlikely (not positive yet) ability for a full semi truck to (A) make the turn into the drive, and (B) have a road to the studio which will support 30-40 tons. Planning on having a road heavy enough for a concrete truck, but thats only 20 tons; an extra 20 tons might be too much. Might have to rent a small skid steer for delivery days so we can get clay from road to studio easily; I DO NOT feel young enough to move 10 tons in a day..nuh uh! Was planning on having enough room/road for a small delivery truck with a lift gate to back up to studio opening and drop 2-4 tons at a time.

 

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I'll Pm you that answer in a day when I can crunch the paperwork-That price will include trucking or not-I can give you both figires.

I'm off on a 1/2 day road trip to get some newspaper roll ends . It's a 3-5 year supply if it all works out for under50$ Sometimes its a 100% bust -no way to check ahead of time-so I;'m off.

Also picking up a pellet stove for a friend about 100 miles away in van in same trip.-Will have to suffer a drive(up and back) thru Redwood National Park  today as well

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45 minutes ago, Mark C. said:

Will have to suffer a drive(up and back) thru Redwood National Park  today as well

Oh gee, let me play this worlds smallest violin for you!

Aside from crapping my shorts on some sketchy roads (in my big sprinter full of pots), some of my favorite drives have been through forests, especially back roads. One time accidentily though, GPS took me on a "detour" through a plotted, but nothing more than cleared road new neighborhood development in the mountains of TN. Couldnt back up, no traction to get back up the gravel road, had to go forward. Was in a uncontrolled slide in a switch back, facing a cliff edge that dropped off maybe a few hundred feet. Brake pedal smashed, van in 1st gear, and couldnt keep it from sliding on the grade.....TERRIFYING!

Have a safe travel and hope your purchases go well! Thanks for PM'ing that info to me.

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Roll ends where a bust today but will try next week now that the van is 1/2 empty. Got the pellet stove for friends (238#s)and spent some time at harbor looking for upcoming herring run for tuna bait around the stupid bowl time.

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  • 6 months later...

Sorry everyone that I've been MIA recently. Been working on the new studio like mad. Hoping to be finished and up and running by Oct 1. Sitting at a show in MN right now and thought I'd try to upload some photos of the progress. Will keep you posted! 

  Ok will have to try another method to upload images; too much data. 

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37 minutes ago, Babs said:

Concrete floor.

Consider rolls ofmatting rubber like in industrial kitchens where you will stand to work.

Years standing on hard pos damp concrete a health hazard.

Matting hoses down easily.

I have numerous gel/rubber mats. Definitely decreases the fatigue and strain on legs/neck/back. 

  What health hazards are you referring to regarding "damp" concrete? Excessively damp concrete could lead to mold/mildew growth and lead to respiratory issues but not sure what else you might mean. 

   Floors to have drains in them so I can hose them down regularly to clean so moisture will be added, but not so much that I have concerns about issues relating to. 

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5 hours ago, hitchmss said:

I have numerous gel/rubber mats. Definitely decreases the fatigue and strain on legs/neck/back. 

  What health hazards are you referring to regarding "damp" concrete? Excessively damp concrete could lead to mold/mildew growth and lead to respiratory issues but not sure what else you might mean. 

   Floors to have drains in them so I can hose them down regularly to clean so moisture will be added, but not so much that I have concerns about issues relating to. 

I like the mats but that urethane floor coating is unbelievable in lasting power and a bit of built in cushion. Expensive stuff though.

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10 hours ago, hitchmss said:

I have numerous gel/rubber mats. Definitely decreases the fatigue and strain on legs/neck/back. 

  What health hazards are you referring to regarding "damp" concrete? Excessively damp concrete could lead to mold/mildew growth and lead to respiratory issues but not sure what else you might mean. 

   Floors to have drains in them so I can hose them down regularly to clean so moisture will be added, but not so much that I have concerns about issues relating to. 

Just the wear and tear on feet legs back et al from walking and standing on cement floor. Damp always seems colder and worse than dry.  My muscles tense in cold damp conditions..

Looks a great work place.

Are you having a shop there also?

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  • 1 year later...

Grab a cup of coffee, it's a saga here. 

Sorry I've been MIA everyone...2020; hopped on here yesterday looking for some advice and Babs asked me how the studio came along....made me remember that I never provided updates and finished photos. 

I'm currently sitting at a hospital (not for me this time....surprisingly) so I have some time to kill and thought I'd provide the low down on how the shop came together, but will have to take some new photos of the finished space as of most recent since it's been getting worked in and filled up. 

A lot of the ideas and designs discussed in this thread came into fruition but I'll try to recap, in as brief as possible, what all went into the shop. I will however, for your sanity, not provide the infiite plethora of details about how the project came together.....there is some info about this on my blog on my website. In short, being designer, engineer, general contractor, contractor, plumber, electrician, HVAC tech, drywaller, painter, and septic installer, with the help of only one Carpenter for 80% of the build, while on a shoestring budget, and doing 23 shows during the build.....never worked so hard in my life. Worst diet I've ever been on; caffeine, sugar, and junk food, but still lost 50#'s....amazing what stress will do to you....glad it's over, but in some psychotic way, missing the action-always loved building and solving problems. 

The project began in early March with the de-construction of the 1970's tobacco barn which stood where my new shop is built now. Construction of the new shop began on April 23 2019 and truly finished in early January 2020 (even though there are still some trim pieces which need paint and some other touches).

The overall footprint is 48' wide x 72' long x 13' high (eaves)c 10' finished ceiling ,with a 4/12 pitch. It is a post frame (pole barn) construction, slab on grade. The building is a residential grade build (for my county had to be due to septic/bathroom), so a number of details were essentially "beefier", more complex, and more $ than an agricultural build.

Posts 4' deep in a 2' wide ditch, on large concrete footings, backfilled with stone. 6x6' laminated Posts on 8' centers, trusses on 2' centers, and a 1' overhang all around. 2x6 girts on 2' centers, 2x4 purlins on 2' centers. Sided/roofed with metal, a vented ridge, and vented soffits including Gable end soffits. 5" seamless gutters with plans for some gutter guards in the near future. 

Under the slab is a type 2 4.5" EPS foam which provides a little over an R20; this also works up the sides of the slabs at the grade boards, and as thermal breaks in the slab between climate and non climate controlled zones of the building. 

In the slab is the radiant floor system which is essentially 3,000 feet of 1/2" PEX tubing run on 12". There are two heating zones; main work area and storage/kitchen/bath. We of course have utilities (water/electric), (2) 4" x12' trench drains for main work/glaze area floors, as well as drains for the kitchen/bath, a lot of gravel, and a vapor barrier. 

The concrete floor is 5" of 4,000 mix with fibers, thickened to 8-9" in the kiln room and garage areas. Concrete day was the WORST day of the project hands down, but all in all, the finsibed product is not heinous. There is a fine brush/fuzz/velvet texture worked into the surface (not actually brushed, just power troweled) and at this time is unsealed but will do an epoxy coat when $$ becomes my friend again. 

The building has an overall R55 in the wall, and R60 in the attic. The wall insulation is comprised of three distinct builds/layers of polyiso foam and dense blown cellulose fiber. To achieve these r values, provide a finished surface on which to hang sheetrock, and separate interior spaces (obviously), there is a stud (2x4")wall around the perimeter of the climate controlled spaces, a double stud wall separating climate controlled spaces from non, and single walls for adjoining climate controlled spaces.

The "exterior" wall total build thickness is 14.5" thick (love my deep window sills) and interior double stud walls is 10.5" thick. The polyiso foam (2 separate builds in the walls, and 2 types of polyiso facings) is cut to fit, and spray foamed in place, providing not only an extremely air/moaiture/vermin tight envelope, but an extremely rigid wall structure. 

The 3" standoff (space between stud wall and posts; is where all utilities are run (no drilling studs) and is filled with fiber once the polyiso is in the stud wall. 

The same layers of polyiso (just in reverse order) are installed between the posts, and against the girts, sprayed into place. 

My ceiling insulation is just 18" of loose blown cellulose fiber with extra build to 24" over water lines and refrigeration lines. 

There is a total of (10) 4'x7' triple pane, high efficiency sliding windows. Some are placed in areas for aesthetics, but primarily for light and ventilation purposes. Window heights are designed to fit with equipment and furniture which lives in front of them. I wish I had the $$ for non vinyl, and casement windows instead of sliders, but alas, I'm just a Potter. 

The length of the shop is oriented on an easy/west axis and because of this, all the windows/doors get GREAT crossbreezes. Numerous south facing windows get a welcomed solar heat gain in winter, and are mostly shaded by trees in the summer. A few west facing windows let in too much heat during afternoon summer sun periods, but planning to deal with that. Blinds have helped immensely. 

The main work area (production & glazing) has a number of door openings to it; an 8x8' insulated overhead door, a 6' double door, and a standard 3' man door. The kiln room has a 8x8' overhead door, and the packing/storage room has (2) 6' double doors. There is also a 4' roll-up door on the tool shop, and the interior doors are all 3' doors. The overhead and double doors have no thresholds installed (rolling carts). Automatic door bottoms and sweeps had to be custom built to seal these doors. The garage space has the framing for, but not installed, a 16' x14' overhead door. 

Unfortunately a 400 amp service was just not in the budget, so a 200 amp single panel was installed. Numerous quad and tandem breakers allowed us to create numerous circuits and still have room for all the 240 v equipment. An overhead service had to be used even though we planned for a buried service, mainly for $$. A whole home surge protector is on the panel, and the panel has some space left in it, but room for a sub panel was built in immediately adjacent. 

20 amp circuits for all "non specific normal" outlets, with many many dedicated circuits in both 120 & 240, including circuits for equipment I won't own for Many years. Outlets are mounted high on the wall (4') and at least every 6-8'. Overhead outlets were installed in areas where open floor spans exceeded this distance. 

Speakers are wired in wall for practically every interior room, as well as exterior speakers. 

Overhead lighting is surface mount LEDs in the work/storage areas, and commercial high bay LEDs for the kiln room.....it's lit up! The lighting is laid out in certain areas to be directly over certain work spaces (task lighting) but you can't go more than 6' without there being another light. 

Exterior lighting is also abundant; (10) caged LED fixtures run the sides of the building, and LARGE LED flood lights with motion sensors on both gables. Surface mounted lighting in the garage bay, and entry lighting as well. Very easy to work at night outside. 

Thankfully city water with good pressure was available and I ran a 2" CTS line to the building. Unfortunately due to cost it constricts down to 1" fittings where our under slab stub out ties into the home run. (the cost is NOT linear when going from 1"-2" on brass fittings---holy cow!!).

1/2" PEX carries water throughout the building; I wish I had done 3/4" for branches and 1" for main runs....hindsight. 

(2) 2' tub sinks are in the main work area; production area sink is built higher to minimize bending over, and the glaze room sink is lower (to minimize lifting 5 gallon buckets out of)--both use paddle (non knob style) handles for turning on faucets easily with dirty hands.

Another tub sink is installed in the kitchen, a full bath (walk in shower), a stacked washer/dryer, hose bib in garage, and ice maker constitutes my water demands. Both work room sinks have connections for a standard hose fitting allowing me to hose down floors. Pressure is set at 75 psi providing plenty of power to blast debris away. 

A high efficiency tankless hot water provides hot water for both domestic and heating purposes and is fired with LPG. The "mechanical" room is one of my favorites; all the piping and technology that makes these systems work----awesome! 

Air conditioning and emergency heat is provided with a high seer 3 ton mini split system. Overhead "ceiling cassettes" were opted for in lieu of the wall mounted air handlers. Currently only the main work area has AC, but the compressor has hookups for 5 air handlers and we only installed 2. At $800 each, adding AC to other areas is a manageable cost. The compressor is mounted high on the exterior side of the building; provides better 360* air flow around unit, and prevents possible theft. Vibration dampening pads between the frame and the building to prevent any related operating noise from transferring (amazing there is practically ZERO noise from the unit, even standing next to it outside). 

The only ventilation this building has is what's built into my "dirty room"---sanding, spray booth, hot wax dipping, glaze mixing. This is a 10'x10' room which houses my downdraft sanding table and spray booth. A makeup air hatch in the ceiling is held in place with magnets and pops open with an easy pull from a stick while standing on the ground. Wall and ceiling mounted infrared heaters provide comfort while working in this room during the winter, but during the summer ya just gotta strip as the makeup air is HOT. 

A 100 gallon 240v compressor, mounted on vibration dampening pads, in the kiln room carries compressed air throughout the shop on a 1" line. 

A 1,000 gallon LPG tank out back provides fuel to the kitchen range, hot water heater, and kiln via a 1" line. A low pressure system takes care of everything but the kiln, and a high pressure system for the kiln is separate but same tank. There are also capped off circuits to allow for easy add ons for future kilns in both low and high pressure. 

Lastly, a 3 bedroom sized (allows for a 2 bedroom home to be added later when we renovate the old schoolhouse and turn into home) septic system services the bathroom and kitchen.  The work room/glaze sinks are on an independent waste system; clay/glaze not good for leach field. Both sinks and drains have sediment filters and traps at the point of use, they then all (2 sinks, 2 floor drains) run into a filter pit, which is essentially a big hole in the yard filled with numerous layers of different gravels, sand, filter fabrics, and pipes. Eventually (20+ years) this pit will have to be dug up and cleaned but for now has been working flawlessly. 

This covers "the basics" of the new "building" however there is a whole slew of other painstaking details which I'm happy to answer questions about. 

The shop is designed to do a number of things but one big one was minimizing the handling of clay/pots by performing a "cyclical" pattern to the flow of work through the numerous stages and physically through the building. See the image of my floor plan for more ease of understanding. 

My main work area;

The van can be driven into the garage, clay offloaded onto wheeled wooden dollies, rolled through the garage door, and stored on the dollies under the "wedging/weighing" table (2'x7') which is also on wheels (as is practically EVERYTHING in the shop). There is space in the main area under different tables, and along the perimeter of the walls to store about 4 tons without being in the way...too much. 

A VPM-60 pugmill is immediately adjacent to this area. My throwing "corner" is two wheels fitted beneath a 2' deep "corner table" (a wrap around table/bench idea, on wheels)which needs only a flip of my chair to go in between throwing/trimming wheels. Ware carts can be pulled up to my side for easy loading while working/sitting. There is a third wheel for my assistant next downstream with another work table in front, which holds a 2'x2' plaster slab for drying out slop. 

A large and low (maybe 28-34" can't remember off hand) 5' x 10' main work table. This table is used for numerous different processes, but primarily for slab/coil construction, and staging ware boards of work. Tools/bats/bags/etc are stored on shelves underneath the top, as is clay on dollies and this table is also on wheels. 

A 2' Bailey manual slab roller, with a 2' infeed table, and 6' outfeed table is also in this area (on wheels); shelves below the work top for storing extruder ((2) wall mounted northstar SS units) and slab related tools/parts/etc.  The slab roller top height is taller (maybe 36-40"?) Which is perfect for putting a banding wheel on top and standing to work putting on handles etc.

Space for ware carts (18"x48"x72" wire shelving/carts), and a batmobile are also in this area. 

A free standing air filter unit is "centered" in this space. Numerous gel floor mats also increase comfort from the hard floor. 

A small pullout loveseat is a good place to take a break, if my dog decides to share "her couch" with me. My overnight Murphy bed is in this same corner too. 

Immediately adjacent to the main work area is my office; a small 8x8' room with a desk, file cabinets, wall shelving, and pinboard. I have my "library" in here, as well as Central stereo equipment (vintage HiFi nerd here!). 

Continuing the "cycle" through the space;

After main work area, carts stage in the zone between main work and glaze area to dry. 

My "dusty" room is immediately adjacent to the main work area, and between it and glaze area. Space for two carts are behind the walkway (behind you while working). The downdraft sanding table and spray booth are in this room as aforementioned. 12" duct carries dust trough the exterior wall. The sanding table is commercially made, but modifierd by me, and spray booth is DIY; I just did a write up for these on the FB group DIY clay. Infrared heaters and floor mats for comfort. Compressed air is brought into this room for both units. 3' doors on either side of the room for "flow through". 

The cycle then continues through the glaze room, to the kiln room, via the double doors. An Olympic 2527 HE, and Amaco Excel "1027" are used for bisque. Both kilns have a downdraft exhaust system (even though I don't use for bisque) which is powered by one inline fan and is vented with 6" snap lock ductwork with seams taped. 

After bisque work then travels back through double doors, into glaze room, and then into dusty room for hot waxing bottoms. (Done in spray booth for "smoke" and fumes. 

The glaze area has two zones; materials storage/mixing, and application. (3) pharmaceutical storage/work tables (2x4'-wire slide out storage baskets below, and stainless tops) can be rolled into the "dusty" room for mixing, but I usually roll the necessary materials only in on a smaller cart. Only small volumes (1 gallon containers or less) of materials are stored in these tables (screw top, clear, square sided containers), and big volumes are stored in the kiln room in either 5 gallon buckets or their bags. 

Next to the mixing tables is my sink. 

(6) 2x4' stainless kitchen tables (on wheels) are the main glazing surfaces as well as a 2' deep x (maybe 20-25' long) wraparound "bar" (no legs to floor- wall cleat and 4 diagonal braces); this bar top is higher, about 44" which allows me to roll my as large as 40 gallon trash cans of glaze underneath to store. Wall mounted shelving above this bar, and glaze mixing tables finishes out this room. 

In between the glazing/main work area there is space for an air king air filter unit to be hung from the ceiling. I have the unit, but still need to paint and hang. 

Once glazed, pots roll through the double doors again to the kiln room for gas firing. I've written about the kiln on here before so I won't go into much detail. Essentially a 4' cube, single wall, ITC coated 2800* IFB, with a layer of 5/16" board and 8# blanket on the exterior. It is a downdraft car kiln fired with (2) big Bertha burners on high pressure LPG. It takes three stacks of 12x24" advancers (love love love); I take this to either cone 12 ox, or cone 10 redux depending. Storage of kiln shelves and posts is to the side/behind the kiln. The new burner setup allows me to turn both burners up from the same valve as opposed to two at the old studio. 

The kiln room has a number of wall mounted shelves, and shelving units for staging of glazed but not fired wares, as well as general purpose.storage. A large window and 8' garage door provide draft for egress, comfort and safety. There is no ceiling in this room, and the vented ridge/soffits draws ALL the heat out of there....NICE in summer. Not so much in winter. 

The electric kilns, air compressor and small (9x10') tool room are in this area as well as the electric panel. I store my kayak and other items under/in the trusses. Plans for a set of drop-down stairs (REAL stairs not attic access junk) on a winch will lead up to some framed and decked in attic storage for medium-lightweight items----probably next year $. 

The tool room is an enclosed and heated room which is roughly in the same "footprint" of the kiln room. A 3' insulated entry door, and 4' roll-up door provide access for bringing tools (table saw, etc) in/out for work. Small machining/woodworking projects occur in this room, but it's basically tool storage with one work bench surface. 

The next step for pots is through a different double door into the show packing/receiving & shipping/ finished inventory/pricing/etc room. Copious wall mounted shelving in numerous heights built specifically for the sizes of pots I make/store cover the walls. A large shelving unit (on wheels) sits in the center of the room, as does a 4x8' work table (on wheels). 

 A 3x6' table in the corner has shelving above for storing packing materials and rolls of bubble/foam on a roller above. A Chase for a "peanut chute" is buried above the central work table in this room, but not completed yet. When done it will allow me to take 6-8 body bags of peanuts into the attic to load the hopper and funnel down to below. 

This "side" of the building (packing/storing, kitchen & bath) is heated but no AC. It is on a separate heating zone than the main room, allowing me to keep the heat low and save $. One window in the kitchen (off the back of the pack room) and antoher in the pack room, plus (2) 6' double doors with 1/2 glass panels provide both air flow and extra daylight to this side of the space.  It is separated from.the main work area intentionally so as to keep the finished pots as dust free as possible, and since the radiant heat has no airflow to it, dust does not "reach" the backs of the shelves and all the books and crannies as much. Because this is a north facing "wing" of the building, it gets not much solar heat gain during summer, so AC is not as critical in this room, especially if windows are opened on cool nights. 

The kitchen is basic; two thrift store cabinets (upper and lower) provide my food storage, open shelving for dishware and pot "display" (this is a potters studio afterall!), refrigerator, full gas range (in case of open houses), microwave, and stacked washer/dryer unit. Off the back of the kitchen is the bathroom (I know, weird combo of smells but saves $$) which is basic; thrift store vanity/sink, commode, and walk in shower. The kitchen has an epoxied floor (prevent food spills into concrete) and the bathroom has a LVT floor for easy cleaning too. 

The last step for pots is out the double door which goes into the garage space where the clay initially came in and gets loaded into the van and off it goes. The garage is a 16'x30' space with a 13' ceiling which fits my full height extended sprinter 2500 with room to walk around comfortably. A hose bib and overhead lighting/speakers complete this room. 

Egress/ingress/mobility was highly considered for this space also. The driveway is about 14' wide and THICK Gravel to accommodate heavy truck deliveries as much as possible. The "turnaround/parking" area in front of shop is large for easy turning around. A 10' access road runs down the length of one side of the building for easier access to the back of the building for items which can't roll through the 6' doors in the shop. All the walkways are at least 3' so you can comfortably Carry a box and not scrape knuckles. Doors are also at least 3' and all have lever style handles, not knobs, and attached "feet" to hold doors open if needed. No thresholds in the building so aside from floor mats and the trench drains, there's nothing to roll over once you're on the concrete. 

The building is a residential grade build, so aside from being "beefier" it also meets all required codes including things like smoke/co detectors. Is just about every way, I exceed building codes but a lot! 

My experience in it so far;

Having only made maybe 5 tons of pots in this space since I finished it almost one year ago exactly;

The only thing I would change, or did wrong- the packing/storage space is too small. Not even a full, one year's normal production filled this space by almost 70%. Eliminating what doesn't need to be stored in this space ,More storage and more efficient storage will help, but will need to find more space for this. Otherwise I made a few mistakes during construction and just have to live with that. Similarly there were budget limitations, which is what it is, and while what it is, is definitely NOT bad in any way, I wish I had the $$ for those things. 

The radiant floor heat is amazing! Not only highly efficient and comfortable, due to the lack of air flow, pots dry very evening, and the humidity level is consistent; two ceiling fans in the main/glaze area move the heat around my 10' ceilings perfectly. A single small dehumidifier running during the summer keeps the humidity at bay---critical since it is so airtight (closing the doors, they'll fight you some! ) 

Speaking of efficiency; using the gauge off my LPG tank (not highly accurate I know) I estimated that last year's heating season (not a brutal winter) cost about $1.50/day in propane, a total of $2/day to heat the 2400 SQ feet of climatize space to-55* for storage, 67 for main work area. 

I haven't had any months where I haven't been using heavy electric equip (kilns, compressors, air exhaust, etc) but on the leanest months of that kind of use, and only wheels, lights, stereo, etc my electric bills are around $40/month. Highest bills thus far have been during high firing/glazing periods and have been $160+, but that was expected and unavoidable. Water bills are less than $15/month. 

Since we're on numbers; I won't breakdown every cost I had in this project but I will tell you that it cost me $58/SQ foot to build, which includes the septic, driveway, and sjtework which was done. Of course, my labor, which was A LOT, Was free. Definitely not the cheapest project and more money than I had, or wanted to spend, but considering what I've built with that $, I think the investment was well worth it, especially as my studio space, but even if I were to sell it. 

For the future;

to use up the old barn which I took down-

Building a 24x24x 12 covered kiln pad out back for Raku/soda this spring when I get some time and a few $ for hardware. Concrete slab for this maybe next year, and kilns after that. 

A 12'x 26' covered and screened in front porch for an outdoor area to sit, but also cut down on afternoon summer solar heat gain in main shop.

Also planning some roll-up screens for the large openings on the building to allow for a bug free, but WIDE open space! 

A shed roof "garage"/lean to along the access road side of the shop. 

Lastly, a large shed roof lean to, for covering wood pile for potential community wood kiln in future. 

I'm now racking my brain trying to thing of what I've forgot to share, but alas, can't think of anything else. Happy to answer questions and go into further details about things. Will hopefully get new pictures taken and uploaded with captions this week if not next. 

I dont like to boast; not my nature, but this shop is pretty awesome so I kind of break my habits. Plus I like sharing this info, expsicslly the $ as it's useful info for those considering. 

In that regard, I know most of you are no where near what we'd call "local" but if you're ever in the Cincinnati region, I'd be more than happy to have you to the shop and show you around! 

Thanks for reading!  

 

 

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Sounds like a dream studio space-only one major flaw you did not build it at Liscom Hill in Humboldt county at our place.Big mistake 

and I will be feeling it a long time in my old wood one car garage converted to studio space.

Besides that I have a few questions-on the mini split (I installed a mr cool two years ago myself) . Are you using smaller ceiling mounter head units and can you add more later?  Or are they the tradition wall mounted head units?. I really like the Mr cool DIY units (5 models)  and plan on installing one in kitch/dining room later this spring. (under 2k cost)

As to the tankless unit for the in floor heat/and domestic water  how large is that unit?

As to the cost since it was all new and needed everything the 200K cost (58$ sq foot) seems good to me these days-you went hog wild on the R values and used the most current tech and that costs more now but down the road it all savings energy wise.

Are the finished interior walls sheet rock or something else?

In a few years as you grow into this space it will all be worth it.

Time to show some photos of finished space.

I see why the large order makes more sense now as income is now whats needed most.

On a smaller scale I dropped off and billed about 15k worth of wares yesterday myself (4 quarter billing) for 2 markets and over 2 k to another  market to fill shelves empty since holidays.Its glaze kiln cooling day here-time to spray the fruit trees and do tax prep.

Good luck

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8 minutes ago, Hulk said:

:ph34r:

My small studio triples as a bike shop an' general workshop. I'd choose cycling over bat-mobiling, but I always did like Marvel over DC.

Oh hahaha! No when I say batmobile....its a cart that's made by a company and they call it the batmobile....for storing bats! Heavy tubular steel great for storing my heavy hydrobats. 

   My shop doubles as a lot of things....pick a hobby and it's done out there and not in "my wife's house"

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14 minutes ago, Mark C. said:

Sounds like a dream studio space-only one major flaw you did not build it at Liscom Hill in Humboldt county at our place.Big mistake 

and I will be feeling it a long time in my old wood one car garage converted to studio space.

Besides that I have a few questions-on the mini split (I installed a mr cool two years ago myself) . Are you using smaller ceiling mounter head units and can you add more later?  Or are they the tradition wall mounted head units?. I really like the Mr cool DIY units (5 models)  and plan on installing one in kitch/dining room later this spring. (under 2k cost)

As to the tankless unit for the in floor heat/and domestic water  how large is that unit?

As to the cost since it was all new and needed everything the 200K cost (58$ sq foot) seems good to me these days-you went hog wild on the R values and used the most current tech and that costs more now but down the road it all savings energy wise.

Are the finished interior walls sheet rock or something else?

In a few years as you grow into this space it will all be worth it.

Time to show some photos of finished space.

I see why the large order makes more sense now as income is now whats needed most.

On a smaller scale I dropped off and billed about 15k worth of wares yesterday myself (4 quarter billing) for 2 markets and over 2 k to another  market to fill shelves empty since holidays.Its glaze kiln cooling day here-time to spray the fruit trees and do tax prep.

Good luck

Hahahaha! It is a DREAM studio no doubt. I figured Ill do this once, maybe twice in my life, if I'm gonna do it, might as well DO It! 

My architect scoffed when I told him the r values I wanted to achieve....in my mind, you get one chance to do this and then you're stuck forever living with regrets. Much better IMO yo recieive benefit down the road than upfront. 

 Plus while it is a big number overall, really per square foot it's not, not at all for residential build prices....at least half. Granted, no finished floors or cabinetry, but someone could spend $40k and turn this into an actual home, and have something worth $450k. 

The tankless is a Max output of 100k Btu's; about the size of a carry on suitcase for a plane, tad bigger maybe. 

The mini split could do either the wall surface mounted, or ceiling flush mounted units; I opted for ceiling and have space to add 3 more to the compressor. Cost is about $800 per ceiling unit including line sets, wiring, air handler and install. Can't remember exacf specs but I think each ceiling unit was "rated" to cool like 1400 SQ feet. I think I spent around $3k for both air handlers, compressor, and linesets. Cheap considering. 
  
Code required finished surfaces in the shop, otherwise I would have pinched that penny for a while. Drywall everywhere. 
 
Few years to grow into it?!? Heck, I'm beginning to feel like it's Thanksgiving and I need to ditch the belt already! Just kidding, but in I am growing into it already and really excited to see what it is in another 2-5 yrs. 
 

Yea, no sh** right?! Had enough savings to make it until my first show in April 2020 and then we were screwed! If not for unemployment we'd be belly up already----or I wouldn't be a Potter. I don't really want to try and force this plate/restaurant order for many many reasons, but $10k+ Right now would go a long way. 
  
I tried uploading some finished photos of the shop but am on my phone and it didn't seem to work. Will take some and some videos and try to get uploaded in a few days. There are a few on my Facebook business page- Sam hitchman ceramics. 
 

Ugh tax prep.....why'd you have to remind me! Another reminder of how a year 2020 has been. 

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