Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
TonyC

NEW RESULTS: L&L CNOS Adjustment Needed?

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, liambesaw said:

Iron rich bodies and iron rich glazes like temmoku are also something that behave poorly in a microwave.  Mainly they just get hot.

I've wondered about this. Turns out up to 5% iron in a clay body doesn't actually exist "...in the metallic form, it exists as part of the silica crystal matrix of the ceramic." https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_microwave_safe.html

I found a good old clayarts duscussion on the subject as well http://www.potters.org/subject91309.html

The only ceramic pot I've ever noticed getting warm was this white plate with blue stripes on a white clay body. It gets bloody hot to the point of painfully reminding me not ever to put it in the microwave again. I'm a slow learner.

Edited by C.Banks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, C.Banks said:

I've wondered about this. Turns out up to 5% iron in a clay body doesn't actually exist "...in the metallic form, it exists as part of the silica crystal matrix of the ceramic." https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_microwave_safe.html

I found a good old clayarts duscussion on the subject as well http://www.potters.org/subject91309.htm.

The only ceramic pot I've ever noticed getting warm was this white plate with blue stripes on a white clay body. It gets bloody hot to the point of painfully reminding me not ever to put it in the microwave again. I'm a slow learner.

You missed the "Notwithstanding this, bodies of higher iron content do heat up so common sense is needed. " Part.  

It doesn't arc because it's not metallic iron (although in reduced bodies it can certainly be), but it still heats up.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

some time ago i posted a photo of a commercial plate that clearly says you can use it in the microwave.  the photo shows concentric circles of cracking with dark lines of something in the cracks.  it was warming up a guest's dinner after she took a phone call instead of eating.  did not ask, just stuck it in for thirty seconds and ruined it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, TonyC said:

Done.   So it is okay to have the TC lead exposed between the 2 ceramics?   I previously was more concerned about having ceramic tube (right) butt up against the ceramic  piece (left unit).   Check out pic.

TC.jpg

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like the thermocouple has been moved into the tube by at least 1/2” and was not previously embedded deep enough.  In addition the shipping tape is still attached to the thermocouple.  I am not sure about the other because it has a complete spacer assembly and we cannot see the thermocouple but it appears new as well and not fully embedded. I would remove the shipping tape as it can catch fire and burn up at about 500 degrees and make sure both are embedded  correctly. They appear to both be new and similar. Still would like to see their condition actually. Just me being thorough though.

additional point, since this is a 2007 model then the instructions you want are the 5.0 manual or  basically a 700 series Bartlett controller.

31DCFAA0-683C-45AC-9235-509E122EEFD6.png

Edited by Bill Kielb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like the thermocouple has been moved into the tube by at least 1/2” and was not previously embedded deep enough.  In addition the shipping tape is still attached to the thermocouple.  I am not sure about the other because it has a complete spacer assembly and we cannot see the thermocouple but it appears new as well and not fully embedded. I would remove the shipping tape as it can catch fire and burn up at about 500 degrees and make sure both are embedded  correctly. They appear to both be new and similar. Still would like to see their condition actually. Just me being thorough though.

additional point, since this is a 2007 model then the instructions you want are the 5.0 manual or  basically a 700 series Bartlett controller.

Bill, I think the TC was touching the end of the tube before, but I could not confirm it like I can now.   The way I originally had the TC set up, the tube was not pressed against the outer kiln wall, therefore allowing it to be pulled forward 1/2".  This allowed for possible error (unless I checked to make sure tube was pushed back against TC).   This was a poor approach (1st time).   You can actually see this possibility from my first pix yesterday showing either placement of the ceramic tube.    

With the new adjustment, the tube is directly against the outer kiln wall, and the TC is pushed forward until it touches the end.   No room for movement.   Much better.  Live and learn.

I did take out the top TC this morning and have attached pix.   I think it is okay.   There were a few particles in the tube, but I think that is common.   Is the thermocouple sticking out enough from the protective ceramic pieces (see pic 2)?   It looks like other photos or videos I've seen, but this is the time to comment I guess.   Please feel free to share any thoughts you might have.   

2019-01-20 TC1.jpg

2019-01-20 TC2.jpg

2019-01-20 TC3 dust.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Bill Kielb said:

Looks nice and new, I see the tape is gone, hopefully both of them are touching now.

Yes, thanks for catching the tape.   It had already been compromised but I removed what was left.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These oxidize over time hence the small metal dust fragments. When they fail its 99% of a tip failureas they come apart there..Always good to have a spare handy. They always fail when yoiu need them the most.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/22/2019 at 1:45 PM, C.Banks said:

I've wondered about this. Turns out up to 5% iron in a clay body doesn't actually exist "...in the metallic form, it exists as part of the silica crystal matrix of the ceramic." https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_microwave_safe.html

I found a good old clayarts duscussion on the subject as well http://www.potters.org/subject91309.html

The only ceramic pot I've ever noticed getting warm was this white plate with blue stripes on a white clay body. It gets bloody hot to the point of painfully reminding me not ever to put it in the microwave again. I'm a slow learner.

Perhaps your plate is porous enough to get hot because of moisture absorbed...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Babs said:

Perhaps your plate is porous enough to get hot because of moisture absorbed...

This could very well be - It's a thrift store find.

I just microwaved it alone for 45 seconds and had to remove it with an oven mitt - atmospheric moisture? lead? The lengthy potters.org discussion mentions Baileys red warming in the microwave but nothing about lead.

kinda' off topic but interesting none-the-less

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/22/2019 at 8:54 AM, neilestrick said:

@TonyC That thermocouple looks great!

Hello Everyone!   I ran a Slow Bisque yesterday using large witness cones (05,06,07) set inside of an Orton holder (I didn't take any chances to screw up).   

1.  The temp setting for 06 = 1828F, and the final temp reading was 1828F (already better than before). 

2.  Next,  the cones look good (at least 05 didn't bend).   Both shelves had same results.

So it looks like my TC correction and proper setup proved a success.   I will be running a Cone 6 Slow Glaze later this weekend, and hope for similar results.    

MOST IMPORTANT:   THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GRACIOUS AND TRULY HELPFUL FEEDBACK!

2019-01-25 Bisque Fired Cones (05,06,07).jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TonyC-

yes! Now the next step is to place your cones in the correct order.  07 in the left hole (falling to the left), then 06, and lastly 05 in the right- most hole. That way they will fall in order from lowest to highest heat work. Remember, if the cone numbers start with a “0” the run in reverse order (like negative numbers).

Regards,

Fred

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Fred Sweet said:

TonyC-

yes! Now the next step is to place your cones in the correct order.  07 in the left hole (falling to the left), then 06, and lastly 05 in the right- most hole. That way they will fall in order from lowest to highest heat work. Remember, if the cone numbers start with a “0” the run in reverse order (like negative numbers).

Regards,

Fred

I knew someone would notice.  haha.   Yes, I realized it after the kiln was running.   Next time I'll get it right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s way more fun in a gas reduction firing when the cone packs are reversed  top to bottom as well. Much  more of a challenge trying to figure out what exactly is happening. I now demand that someone take a picture before we close the door.

I was taught guide, firing, guard in that order but had an artist that would line them up as 4,5,6 for a cone six soda firing. That took some getting used to. She also placed them at the back of the kiln, but that is another story.

Edited by Bill Kielb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Fred Sweet said:

TonyC-

yes! Now the next step is to place your cones in the correct order.  07 in the left hole (falling to the left), then 06, and lastly 05 in the right- most hole. That way they will fall in order from lowest to highest heat work. Remember, if the cone numbers start with a “0” the run in reverse order (like negative numbers).

Regards,

Fred

Ya that for sure-every cone box has this info on the side as well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/21/2019 at 7:15 PM, C.Banks said:

I've wondered about this. Turns out up to 5% iron in a clay body doesn't actually exist "...in the metallic form, it exists as part of the silica crystal matrix of the ceramic." https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_microwave_safe.html

I found a good old clayarts duscussion on the subject as well http://www.potters.org/subject91309.html

The only ceramic pot I've ever noticed getting warm was this white plate with blue stripes on a white clay body. It gets bloody hot to the point of painfully reminding me not ever to put it in the microwave again. I'm a slow learner.

I bought a cup and saucer at an import store, white clay, slipcast, glazes: black cup, white saucer. They both  excessively overheated in the microwave, so I think it's the clay, rather than the glaze. It's a fine-grained clay that feels "too heavy." 

I have a few red stoneware ^10 with iron-saturate glazed dishes that don't get as hot when nuked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.