Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
StudentMolly

Help with Clear cone 10 and cone 6

Recommended Posts

Hello, All! I am looking for info on favorite and best clear glazes to use with slip decorations at cone 10, and favorites to use with underglaze at cone 6 on porcelain slip! any and all help is appreciated. I am in my senior year of my ceramics undergrad, so photos of results could be super beneficial because I am not 100% certain of the properties I desire as of just yet. Thank you in advance!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Molly!

I'm just starting down the yellow brick glaze road myself - cone 6 electric only for now - and have tested a variant of Kitten's Clear, Bethany Krull's Wallonstonite Clear, our local JC's Functional Clear, and Aardvark Clay's Artisan Series Gloss Clear.

From there, will try Neil's Plus Six*, and, as I've already mixed up a variant of Hansen's 5x20 with colour (Bill VG's teal blue, which uses FF3124 instead of FF3134), and like how it behaves very much, will certainly give the clear a try:

A recipe developed by Tony Hansen in the 1980s. Its was popular because of the simplicity of the recipe and how well it worked with chrome-tin stains.

Material Amount
Wollastonite 20.0
Ferro Frit 3134 20.0
Custer Feldspar 20.0
EPK 20.0
Silica 20.0
  100.00  

I found Bill VG's teal blue melts smooth and uniform, doesn't move, and looks niiice, real nice!

I find the local JC's Functional Clear behaves well (and is cheap to make), however, it clouds up easily if too thick and/or not screened. I had some tiny bubbles (encapsulated, not pinholes) in Kitten's clear - not sure if due to overfire and/or red clay body. I haven't used Wallonstonite Clear enough to comment just yet. Aardvark Artisan Series doesn't come with formula, so that's a dead end, just wanted to try a commercial glaze; it behaves ok, crazes (on clay body I was using) if too thick.

Just shout if you want the recipes...

Have fun!

 

*Neil's plus six, copied from this here forum

I use this one in my studio, and it fits everything. It's from Digitalfire, but I modified it slightly to melt a little more for better clarity.
G1214W
Frit 3134     26.08
Neph Sy     11.07
Whiting       7.98
EPK            25.11
Flint            29.75?
 
COE is 5.37

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glazes and glaze preference often fit individual needs and artistry so specifically that personal trial is nearly the only way to figure this out. Glad to see you are joining the fun. There are many glazes on Glazy.org that can be viewed and I am pretty sure you can filter by those that have pictures among other criteria. (Cone 6, 10, clear, matte ......) Those that have mixed, formulated, tested etc... are many and generally have years of trial and error research. Digital fire is interesting and has some technical cool stuff. I met John Britt last summer and he obviously has a bunch of time tested knowledge and over 1000 test tiles I believe. Matt Katz has some excellent courses in glaze chemistry and formerly was out of Alfred university.

Our own Marcia at Madison pottery does a great deal with underglazes, stains and slip so we are developing some interesting things (soon to be published) to know about reactions with  underglazes and our test results.

From a personal perspective learning UMF and Stull has helped clarify many cause and effect issues with glazes for me, but it is not for everyone. I think the plus six designation was a reference to Marcias Silky matte plus 6% silica which is on glazy in its base non plus six percent silica form.

Glad to see you joining in and hope your testing and learning go well. Hulk is right, shout a specific need and most will share their favorites for you to try and make your own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@StudentMolly There are a million options out there, and which works best for you will depend on which clay body you're using. Most any clear can be adjusted for how much it runs and how it fits on your clay body. If you have a glaze in your studio that is a transparent color, then it can be mixed without the colorant for a plain clear. If you have glazes in the studio that are glossy but opaque, those can often be made clear by leaving out the colorant and opacifier (tin or zircon, usually). Have you begun using glaze formulation software yet?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not used glaze formulation software yet. the most I have learned about glaze is how to mix it, so anything can help. How do I know if it's a transparent base?  We have Leaches transparent, but it fires white and blue (over black slip) or a JK 20 White?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, StudentMolly said:

How do I know if it's a transparent base?

You can see through it. Like Neil said there are a million possibilities, what works for one clay might not work for another. It's kinda surprising that in your senior year of your undergrad you haven't been given more info / teaching about this. Anyhow, if you are just looking for somewhere to start Glazy has a searchable database of glazes that have been contributed by potters from all over the world, many have images of test tiles/pots. I just put "clear" and "high fire" in the search terms and quite a few came up, midfire glaze recipes there too. You would have to test to see how they work for your firing methods and clays.   https://glazy.org/search?keywords=clear&photo=true&base_type=460&cone=high&state=2  Your school library would be another place to look, if there is a ceramics program there should be books available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have nice clear at cone 10-its shiny -I can post it later as I'm busy throwing today

It needs heat (full cone 10 ) and it needs to be applied thin.I like it fired a tad hotter than 10 but it will work at 10

If applied thick it can get milky colored.

Good clears are hard to fine.

Edited by Mark C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Clear cone 10 glaze

HT-51

Potash Feldspar-27

I use Kingman but you can use Custar

Ball Clay -19.5

whiting -19.5

Silica (325mesh)-34

Mix Thin apply thin and rub out any runs or bubbles when dry with fingers-glaze fast when dipping or pouring

try to get a uniform coating-sparing works well.

I have used this over cobalt drawings for 40 years

very clear at a hot cone 10.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.