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Fixing a plaster mold?


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Hi there! 

So my question is very basic but I just want to know the best way to fix a plaster mold that has broken. I have used in weld to fix all my broken ceramics and it has worked beautifully, but I wasn’t sure if it would work on plaster? Another thing I was going to try was to use plaster to glue it back on, but wasn’t sure if that would work either so just wanted to ask for some advice first.

Thanks!

Nate

 

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This was the list of glues I tested.  I kept samples 4,5,6 and 7.  Looking at them, sample 4 has the least noticeable glue line.  All four are still firmly stuck and it must be well over three  years ago that I tested them.  I stuck the top (well) part of a bonsai dish mould back together.  Don't remember which glue I used, would have been the cheapest/easiest of the four listed above.

 

 

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Well, actually, Cascamite in the EU is a synthetic plastic resin glue (urea formaldehyde), similar to Weldwood Plastic Resin glue in the US. It is a powder that is mixed with water, but when cured is water resistant.  "White glues" are PVA (poly vinyl acetate), one common brand is Elmer's. Yellow carpenter's wood glues are also PVA, but with other resins added to improve their performance in woodworking applications, such as open time, tack, and water/weather resistance. The yellow color is simply a dye to distinguish it from plain white PVA glues. Casein glues are made from milk proteins, and are water resistant. Elmer's School Glue at one time was a casein-based glue, but now is a PVA glue.

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On 11/2/2018 at 6:22 PM, Rae Reich said:

 Just don't get any on the inside of the mold. 

Yes, forgot to add that.

I think the ease of using a glue probably outweighs it's gluability.  PVA is easier to use and remove, Superglues are a PIT..... and Araldite needs mixing, so if I need to fix another mould in the future, I'd use PVA.

 

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