Starting an at-home personal studio

[ahebertVT]

I am a college grad who wants to start a small studio in my basement after taking years of classes, so I guess you'd call me a newbie : ) But this is truly my passion and what I want to do. I'd like to start throwing my own pots and eventually sell them in businesses around my touristy town. I have a brent wheel (which is broken and I can't find anyone in my area that can service it- the pedal won't change the speed.) I am thinking about investing in a new brent wheel (CXC, 1HP, classic controller) and a new skutt kiln (1227PK 28.13" diameter, 9.9 cubic feet, True Cone 10 Production Kiln). Because I've always been in classes, I was never exposed to the details of the studios I worked in. I've been doing hours of research and still can't decide on what equipment and materials to purchase. I'm a little nervous about investing all of this money in a studio of my own and not fully understanding the dynamics of a functioning studio. I know it will be a lot of work but does anyone think I'm taking too much on? Or will I be able to figure things out as I go? (such as kiln firing/ glaze testing/ clay recycling/ clay ordering....)

Here's my list of questions that I'm having trouble answering: If anyone has any suggestions for any of the following it would be a great help to me!

-Are there any books that would be of help to me that could guide me through starting up my own studio?

-What horsepower is really necessary for a wheel for small-midsize production pottery?

-Wheel servicing- How do you typically get your wheel fixed? I live in northern Vermont and can't find anyone that fixes wheels.

-What kind of clay body should I be purchasing? Or what cone clay body do I really need? What is typical of most production/ wheel thrown pots? Earthenware or stoneware? Both?

-What kind of glazes?

-What size kiln is necessary so I'm not constantly firing but at the same time isn't too big that I simply won't need to spend all of the money on?

-Should I buy a cone 10 (or true cone 10) kiln for what I'm planning on doing? What is typical?

-Does anyone have experience with the wheel and kiln I'm looking into? Would you recommend them? Do I need a full horsepower?

...any other suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much!

[Prokopp]

Your Brent wheel will be just fine for you if you get the pedal fixed. Look here to determine what may be wrong with the pedal, then take the appropriate action:

 

http://www.bigcerami...eddleAdjust.pdf

 

Skutt and Brent will work fine.

Have fun!

[Marcia Selsor]

Dear AhebertVT,

I agree with Porkopp, fix the peddle. If you can't fix the peddle, get a new peddle. You don't need a whole new wheel at this time. There are other things to purchase like a kiln, clay, glaze chemicals, a scale, etc.

-Are there any books that would be of help to me that could guide me through starting up my own studio?

First you should build the studio to meet the needs of what you make...hand building, 50 gallon crocks or teapots and casseroles? Design shelves that can handle your production sizes or that can be adjusted. Make your work station around your wheel efficient and comfortable.

-What horsepower is really necessary for a wheel for small-midsize production pottery?

The horsepower has more to do with the size or amount of clay you expect to be throwing. 50 lbs or 5-15 lbs?

-Wheel servicing- How do you typically get your wheel fixed? I live in northern Vermont and can't find anyone that fixes wheels.

Get a manual or call tech support at the manufacturer. Most techies are very kind and will walk you through it.

-What kind of clay body should I be purchasing? Or what cone clay body do I really need? What is typical of most production/ wheel thrown pots? Earthenware or stoneware? Both?

All this depends on what you intend to be making. We can't answer these questions for you.

-What kind of glazes?

that is a personal design issue and should compliment whatever it is you intend to make.

-What size kiln is necessary so I'm not constantly firing but at the same time isn't too big that I simply won't need to spend all of the money on?

Agin, this depends on you. If you are throwing 25" platters, a 24" diameter kiln won't do.

-Should I buy a cone 10 (or true cone 10) kiln for what I'm planning on doing? What is typical?

Think about the wear and tear of firing Cone 10 in an electric kiln. Many people use cone 6 glazes because it is easier on the electric kiln. You can get some beautiful glaze effects in an electric at ^6 by soaking etc.

-Does anyone have experience with the wheel and kiln I'm looking into? addressed above. Would you recommend them? Do I need a full horsepower?

...any other suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Marcia

[Chris Campbell]

First of all ... You don't have to buy everything immediately.

Start by fixing your wheel ... I am not a techie but I think it is as simple as turning the pedal over and adjusting a screw.

Second, go online to clay and pottery supply places and read up on what they have to say about their clays. You probably want to fire to Cone 6 at home so find one clay body they say throws well and try it. If you have a clay supply nearby, go in and ask questions. Stick with one clay body to begin with.

I have two Skutt 1227 and they work fine but there are competing brands that work just as well. Shop around.

Read Vince Pitelka's book ... Do not have the name handy but you can google it .... It is full of good basic reliable info.

 

The best advice I can give right now .... Read and research during these cold winter days ... You know what they say about acting in haste and repenting at leisure!

[Nelly]

First of all ... You don't have to buy everything immediately.

Start by fixing your wheel ... I am not a techie but I think it is as simple as turning the pedal over and adjusting a screw.

Second, go online to clay and pottery supply places and read up on what they have to say about their clays. You probably want to fire to Cone 6 at home so find one clay body they say throws well and try it. If you have a clay supply nearby, go in and ask questions. Stick with one clay body to begin with.

I have two Skutt 1227 and they work fine but there are competing brands that work just as well. Shop around.

Read Vince Pitelka's book ... Do not have the name handy but you can google it .... It is full of good basic reliable info.

 

The best advice I can give right now .... Read and research during these cold winter days ... You know what they say about acting in haste and repenting at leisure!

 

 

 

 

Dear All,

 

This is my first time posting on this forum. I too have just set up my own studio in my garage. I have the wheel and kiln, some shelving, a granite slate table for wedging, two glazes to start, some clay and lots and lots of tools. In short, I am good to go.

 

My question, however, has to do with how will I work in a garage without water. I have no water source except the hose coming from the house. A friend suggested I use a wash tub with a sponge in the drain and simply allow the water I use to collect in a pail below. I am hoping this pail will have some moderately clean water at the end of my work day. I will also have a large garbage can where I can scrape off my clay from the wheel. This I will likely use for recycling.

 

I would, however, really like to have warm water coming into the studio. I have heard of some people suspending barrels of water over a sink to use in a wateless studio. Does anyone know if this barrel can be heated and if so how??

 

I know some people work on a system of pails for cleaning (i.e., one with the most junk goes in pail one, the second for washing and the final for rinsing). Each of these pails are decanted daily. Does anyone have any advice about how to work in a waterless studio?

 

Nelly

[Marcia Selsor]

First of all ... You don't have to buy everything immediately.

Start by fixing your wheel ... I am not a techie but I think it is as simple as turning the pedal over and adjusting a screw.

Second, go online to clay and pottery supply places and read up on what they have to say about their clays. You probably want to fire to Cone 6 at home so find one clay body they say throws well and try it. If you have a clay supply nearby, go in and ask questions. Stick with one clay body to begin with.

I have two Skutt 1227 and they work fine but there are competing brands that work just as well. Shop around.

Read Vince Pitelka's book ... Do not have the name handy but you can google it .... It is full of good basic reliable info.

 

The best advice I can give right now .... Read and research during these cold winter days ... You know what they say about acting in haste and repenting at leisure!

 

 

 

 

Dear All,

 

This is my first time posting on this forum. I too have just set up my own studio in my garage. I have the wheel and kiln, some shelving, a granite slate table for wedging, two glazes to start, some clay and lots and lots of tools. In short, I am good to go.

 

My question, however, has to do with how will I work in a garage without water. I have no water source except the hose coming from the house. A friend suggested I use a wash tub with a sponge in the drain and simply allow the water I use to collect in a pail below. I am hoping this pail will have some moderately clean water at the end of my work day. I will also have a large garbage can where I can scrape off my clay from the wheel. This I will likely use for recycling.

 

I would, however, really like to have warm water coming into the studio. I have heard of some people suspending barrels of water over a sink to use in a wateless studio. Does anyone know if this barrel can be heated and if so how??

 

I know some people work on a system of pails for cleaning (i.e., one with the most junk goes in pail one, the second for washing and the final for rinsing). Each of these pails are decanted daily. Does anyone have any advice about how to work in a waterless studio?

 

Nelly

 

My studio water is outside but we don't get freezes often here. For your throwing water, heat your bucket with an emersion heater to take the chill off. I'd recommend getting a large water container with a spigot for your convenience. Fill it with the hose when you need more. You will become creative in your usage of water.

Marcia

 

 

[Nelly]

First of all ... You don't have to buy everything immediately.

Start by fixing your wheel ... I am not a techie but I think it is as simple as turning the pedal over and adjusting a screw.

Second, go online to clay and pottery supply places and read up on what they have to say about their clays. You probably want to fire to Cone 6 at home so find one clay body they say throws well and try it. If you have a clay supply nearby, go in and ask questions. Stick with one clay body to begin with.

I have two Skutt 1227 and they work fine but there are competing brands that work just as well. Shop around.

Read Vince Pitelka's book ... Do not have the name handy but you can google it .... It is full of good basic reliable info.

 

The best advice I can give right now .... Read and research during these cold winter days ... You know what they say about acting in haste and repenting at leisure!

 

 

 

 

Dear All,

 

This is my first time posting on this forum. I too have just set up my own studio in my garage. I have the wheel and kiln, some shelving, a granite slate table for wedging, two glazes to start, some clay and lots and lots of tools. In short, I am good to go.

 

My question, however, has to do with how will I work in a garage without water. I have no water source except the hose coming from the house. A friend suggested I use a wash tub with a sponge in the drain and simply allow the water I use to collect in a pail below. I am hoping this pail will have some moderately clean water at the end of my work day. I will also have a large garbage can where I can scrape off my clay from the wheel. This I will likely use for recycling.

 

I would, however, really like to have warm water coming into the studio. I have heard of some people suspending barrels of water over a sink to use in a wateless studio. Does anyone know if this barrel can be heated and if so how??

 

I know some people work on a system of pails for cleaning (i.e., one with the most junk goes in pail one, the second for washing and the final for rinsing). Each of these pails are decanted daily. Does anyone have any advice about how to work in a waterless studio?

 

Nelly

 

My studio water is outside but we don't get freezes often here. For your throwing water, heat your bucket with an emersion heater to take the chill off. I'd recommend getting a large water container with a spigot for your convenience. Fill it with the hose when you need more. You will become creative in your usage of water.

Marcia

 

Dear Marcia,

 

Thank you for your reply. I am not sure what an immersion heater is but I will find out tomorrow. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I live in a small town in Ontario, Canada. It does get cold here. My studio is currently heated to 60 degrees on my off work days and then I turn the temperature up on non-working days. This keeps me warm at least. It is just the cold water that I am shuttering at right now. I am also conscious that if I leave my new wheel and kiln outside in freezing temperatures that these can become damaged. Thus, I regulate the temperature of this space fairly closely.

 

Another issue I have had to deal with is clay storate. Right now, I keep my clay in the house and take it to the studio when I want to use it. This prevents freezing. Having said this, today I got to thinking that maybe I could use styrofoam insulated coolers (i.e., or the old Coleman camping cooler) to keep my clay from freezing.

 

There really is sooo much to think about.

 

Even getting insurance for this space was a complete hassle. No-one wanted to insure me despite the fact the kiln is brand new and in a separate space from the house. I finally got one company to agree to insure me "as long as it is brand new and that it has passed an electrical safety inspection." I did what they asked. Seemed the right thing to do given the incredible upset it caused companies when this was mentioned.

 

I have been told that many people simply fire in their basements and do not tell their insurance agents. This was not an option for me.

 

I do know, I will have to get creative with my water issue. In the summer it will be fine. Is just right now that I am reluctant to do anything too drastic in terms of work.

 

Thank you again for your feedback.

 

Nelly

 

 

 

[Jocelyn]

Hi! I am new to pottery as well (hobby potter), and recently setup a work area (I don't dare call it a studio ... still too new for that title!). I just purchased a kiln (Skutt 822KM-3), and purchased a Brent wheel about 6 months ago. I have been taking classes for a year with a wonderful teacher who has a paint-your-own pottery store, and also does clay classes. I have to say that I don't think I could have done all the setup and purchasing without her guidance. Her experiences with brands, clays, glazes, firings was a world of help. So if you can find a good resource locally, it will be invaluable.

 

The questions you are asking are quite personal to what you are planning to do. Clays, glazes, production volume ... all based on what you want to do.

 

For your studio, you can google information for how much space you need.

 

Clays are your preference. I still use, what I guess is beginner clay. For what I am doing it serves the purpose. Bisque fire 04.

 

Glazes are also your preference. I am currently using the Mayco line. Fire 06. I use Stroke & Coat, the Crystallines, and Elements. I'm not very artistic, so I do more solid colors and less detailed design work for right now. I hope to experiment more in the future.

 

Kiln size depends on how much you plan to produce. I have a small kiln, which I expect to fire a bisque & glaze batch once a month. Sounds like you are looking to do more than that.

 

In doing my research, you can't go wrong with a Skutt kiln and Brent wheel.

 

I've purchased by wheel and kiln from Clay-King.com. Prices are good and the service has been excellent.

 

 

Just some thoughts from another new potter.

 

Good luck, and have fun!

[ahebertVT]

Your Brent wheel will be just fine for you if you get the pedal fixed. Look here to determine what may be wrong with the pedal, then take the appropriate action:

 

http://www.bigcerami...eddleAdjust.pdf

 

Skutt and Brent will work fine.

Have fun!

 

 

 

Thanks so much for the quick reply! My brent wheel is old- I bought it from a friend's dad who used it years ago. It could be from the 80's. I picked up the wheel and went to use it and it wouldn't turn on. My friend looked at it and opened up the control box and realized there was a missing connection so he soldered it and the wheel turned on but the speed won't change. I found replacement parts but am not sure what is exactly is going on with it and I don't want to buy a bunch of parts that would be a waste. I will call tech support and ask what to do.

Thanks again!

 

 

[Mark C.]

Call amaco and ask for brent wheel service person-She will talk you thru this as an 80s wheel is not that old-The early 70 wheels they do not know as much about as they used different pedals and parts. Its most likely in the pedal control which is under the 4 screws on bottom of foot pedal-This is a plug and play part anyone can replace-same is true with the circuit panel in control box-I think its the pedal -It also is speed adjustable with a blue and red [plastic) screw. She will talk you thru all this on the phone.

Hope this helps

Mark

[Lucille Oka]

This is an exciting time for you. Take your time and make your decisions wisely. Your two choices of Brent and Skutt are right on. But will you need those models and sizes? Be sure to read product brochures to determine your needs and read all of your manuals.

 

The good thing about taking classes is not only the accessibility to the wheels, clay, glazes and instruction but you have had the opportunity to look around the studio and see how things are laid out. In your studio you will have the same considerations.

 

Here are some things you may want in your studio: sturdy shelving units, tables for glazing and hand building, and a stool for your wheel work. You will also need storage for glazes and/or glaze making chemicals, clay, plaster if making a wedging table and molds. You will need storage for tools, bats, kiln supplies and etc. And there must be storage for maintenance supplies such as paper towels, soap, mop, and trash bins.

 

You will also need proper ventilation for the kiln while firing.

 

Now unless you can bench press 50 to 100 pounds or your basement is a walk out, if you make very large and heavy vessels they will have to be taken up stairs for packaging and shipping. As it is getting supplies down into the basement is going to be a bit of a pill. But if you have an old coal chute it can be utilized for deliveries.

 

You will try to recall what your instructor(s) have told you from time to time maybe you will remember or maybe not.

 

Get a collection of ceramics books to help you along the way. The best place to start is the local library; borrow and read before you buy the book; it saves money.

 

[ahebertVT]

Dear AhebertVT,

I agree with Porkopp, fix the peddle. If you can't fix the peddle, get a new peddle. You don't need a whole new wheel at this time. There are other things to purchase like a kiln, clay, glaze chemicals, a scale, etc.

-Are there any books that would be of help to me that could guide me through starting up my own studio?

First you should build the studio to meet the needs of what you make...hand building, 50 gallon crocks or teapots and casseroles? Design shelves that can handle your production sizes or that can be adjusted. Make your work station around your wheel efficient and comfortable.

-What horsepower is really necessary for a wheel for small-midsize production pottery?

The horsepower has more to do with the size or amount of clay you expect to be throwing. 50 lbs or 5-15 lbs?

-Wheel servicing- How do you typically get your wheel fixed? I live in northern Vermont and can't find anyone that fixes wheels.

Get a manual or call tech support at the manufacturer. Most techies are very kind and will walk you through it.

-What kind of clay body should I be purchasing? Or what cone clay body do I really need? What is typical of most production/ wheel thrown pots? Earthenware or stoneware? Both?

All this depends on what you intend to be making. We can't answer these questions for you.

-What kind of glazes?

that is a personal design issue and should compliment whatever it is you intend to make.

-What size kiln is necessary so I'm not constantly firing but at the same time isn't too big that I simply won't need to spend all of the money on?

Agin, this depends on you. If you are throwing 25" platters, a 24" diameter kiln won't do.

-Should I buy a cone 10 (or true cone 10) kiln for what I'm planning on doing? What is typical?

Think about the wear and tear of firing Cone 10 in an electric kiln. Many people use cone 6 glazes because it is easier on the electric kiln. You can get some beautiful glaze effects in an electric at ^6 by soaking etc.

-Does anyone have experience with the wheel and kiln I'm looking into? addressed above. Would you recommend them? Do I need a full horsepower?

...any other suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Marcia

 

Thanks so much for the quick response!

I would be throwing small to medium pots- maybe some large. Mostly bowls, plates, mugs, jars, casseroles etc. But all wheel throwing. In terms of horsepower in a wheel- I'd probably be throwing more like 5-15 lbs. I am still unsure of whether to use high firing clay (and a kiln to accommodate this) or medium-fire clay (and lower temperature kiln which in turn would be cheaper). Regardless- I'm excited to figure it all out. Thanks so much for the advice!

 

 

[teardrop]

If you are making dinnerware/plates/items for food you will have to fire to at least Cone 6 (from my understanding) before you will get into glazes that are certified as "foodsafe".

 

I'm setting up a small "garagio" myself. Fun stuff, for sure! Good luck on the search/decisions before you.

 

teardrop

[Jeri]

If you are making dinnerware/plates/items for food you will have to fire to at least Cone 6 (from my understanding) before you will get into glazes that are certified as "foodsafe".

 

I'm setting up a small "garagio" myself. Fun stuff, for sure! Good luck on the search/decisions before you.

 

teardrop

 

 

There are many "food safe" 06 glazes out there. The low fire clay bodies just aren't considered to be food safe, and should be hand washed, and NOT used in the microwave. They get too hot to touch if you do. Also they cannot be used in the oven, and if washed in the dishwasher, with the higher drying tempts, the glazes tend to start cracking. This has always been my understanding of the low fire clays and slips.

[teardrop]

Thanks for the clarification, jeri. They do indeed appear food safe...but with all of the pitfalls you mention it looks as if it would be a hassle to use them in the kitchen/etc.

 

happy pottin'!

 

teardrop

[lacemuse]

Hi! I'm a newb, too. I just bought equipment & set up my tiny studio in our mudroom (room between garage & garden level of our home.) I keep the door closed to the house to keep dust contained. I keep the room clean & use water to clean up, so there's never a huge amount of clay dust.

 

I decided on what I wanted to make first. That led me to what type of clay & glazes to go with that clay. Once I decided what items I wanted to make, I knew what the highest cone I would be firing at & what HP wheel I needed. I purchased the wheel, decided that I would be firing mostly ^5 & ^6 with an occasional ^10 firing. I don't have plans to make anything large, 14" plates maybe & 17" jars/vases, etc. I decided on the Skutt KM818-30. I, also, purchased Clay-King's slab roller which I use constantly for hand-building & tiles. I love it!!! I, too, purchased everything from Clay-King, because the prices were the best & they shipped promptly.

 

The studio space is small, but there's a perfect sized nook for the kiln & the slab roller sits against a wall. I have only 1 shelving unit on the wall & a rolling cart under it for supplies. The only place for my wheel is in the center of the room. I don't have room for a worktable, so I'm going to use a portable table with hinged legs to sit over the wheel, but that I can put out of the way when I'm using my wheel. Not the best situation, because it means keeping the table cleaned off. For wedging, I put my wedging board on one end of the slab roller table so it pushes up against the wall. When I'm finished wedging, I sit the board up against a wall out of the way.

 

I'm purchasing my vent system this summer & have decided to attach the vent to wood & place that in the open window of the door. Otherwise, the only place to vent to is the garage. For water, I'm using the sink in the laundry room next door in the winter. Not real convenient, & it means opening the door into the house. This spring I'll put a barrel on a stand outside my studio door with the hose being the water source. I like the idea of a drain plug in the bottom with a bucket under the barrel.

 

I'm storing my clays & glaze buckets under the slab roller.

 

My studio needs some more wall shelving & is pretty cramped, but for only one potter in it, it's workable. I think it'll be years before I'd even consider selling anything, so I don't have the need for massive amounts of shelving for drying, etc.

[jojoaruba]

I have had a basement studio for a number of years. I had to repair my Brent pedal twice over the years just as a number of folks have been suggesting. Repairing the pedal is really was not difficult. My studio layout is for the kilns to be in one area, the wheel in another with shelves around for drying and glazes and a separate table for doing things like mixing glazes and more drying space. I have a pugmill in another area with dry chemicals and clays along with a couple of large vats for slaking scraps. It really doesn't take up very much space. The whole thing is about 100 square feet if you are careful how you set it up. No one has ever accused me of being an artist, but I love clay, and I will continue to work in clay until the day when my body joins itself with the molecules I am privileged to form with my hands. Enjoy your progress and don't get discouraged. It takes time to get clay to do what you want. But when it is good, it is very good indeed...