CPT Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Hi Folks: I'm slowly putting together my studio. My small slab roller is arriving sometime tomorrow, yay! Only thing is that I am wedging clay on my kitchen table (ugh). I then take it downstairs to do pottery work, molding, etc . I would like to build a nice work/wedging table (maybe from an old door or something) as my budget won't allow me to buy a nice work table online. Any tips, building suggestions?? Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Make it solid -say 2x 4 legs at least-Stiffen it with plywood Solid is the key for wedging tables. Mine where made in 1971 4x4 legs one is 4 inches of plaster the other is 5 inch's way overbuilt one for porcelain one stoneware-I like thick plaster it really absorbs water and if I need to scrap it its plenty thick. I'm not moving so heavy does not matter. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 My wedging tables have a particle board top covered with canvas. Been using them for 12 years, and they're almost due for new canvas. Legs are 4x4's, with 2x4 rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 My wedging tables have a particle board top covered with canvas. Been using them for 12 years, and they're almost due for new canvas. Legs are 4x4's, with 2x4 rails. I built mine out of 2X4 and plywood, casting 2 1/2 inches of concrete into it and then covering with canvas-now 20 years old. If I were to build one today I might opt for plywood and cement board covered with canvas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I made mine to fit my height. It has 4 x 4 legs and I can store clay on dollies underneath. I have 3" of plaster for my waging table. I like plaster because it absorbs moisture. I can wash it with a sponge for changing clay bodies. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 My wedging tables have a particle board top covered with canvas. Been using them for 12 years, and they're almost due for new canvas. Legs are 4x4's, with 2x4 rails. I built mine out of 2X4 and plywood, casting 2 1/2 inches of concrete into it and then covering with canvas-now 20 years old. If I were to build one today I might opt for plywood and cement board covered with canvas. Love the cement board idea. Would last forever. Smells funny, though, at least at first. Although I've been leaning toward a poured concrete top. A friend of mine has concrete counter tops in his studio that are a dream to wedge on. Almost makes wedging bearable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seasoned Warrior Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I like plaster myself and I had several bags of plaster that were aging so rather thhan have them sit there and hydrate I made a wedging table. My wedging table is 2' by 4' and 4" deep. I happened to have some Monterey Pine I cut up into timbers to frame with and so my legs are the tail ends of 18" by 6" beams at about the right height cut with a chain saw. I also attached a piece of stainless steel 0.030" welding wire and a turnbuckle to use to cut the clay if I wish. It works well for me and I have it separated one side I use for white clay and the other for colored clays. I use other white clays sometimes besides porcelain and I like Black Mountain, some Red clays and I use a lot of sculpture mix so I like to keep them separate. Regards, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoozie Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 We made our workbench using plastic legs by 2x4 basics and just had to add 2x4's and sheet plywood. Love them! It was so easy and the table is super sturdy. There is no nailing, only screws and drilling pilot holes. I added a second piece of plywood on top with an overlap of about 10 inches to make it easier to sit at. http://www.2x4basics...kBench-Legs.asp For wedging, I use a 2'x2' piece of drywall covered with duck cloth and taped down with the silver metal duct tape. The board is attached to the table with two quickgrip bar clamps. The board doesn't move and makes great use of space because it can be moved easily to make room to glaze, etc. Very cost efficient and I didn't have to cut a single piece of wood as Lowes did all the cutting for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 If you use concrete board you can eliminate most of the smell be laying it out in the sun for a couple of days and research the brand of concrete board. Hardibacker is not recommended for wet areas I use Dura Rock for my exterior murals and fountains. Denice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Years ago I shared a studio with a potter who had the same initials as me, T.R.He found an old particle board dresser in the backlane. It has drawers on the left side and a small cupboard door on the right. I keep my Ohause gram scale in the cupboard. I have two drawers full of stains and a drawer with glaze notes. We covered a piece of 3/4 inch plywood with canvas and screwed it to the top with drywall screws. It has lasted me 26 years. Has a tiny hole in the canvas, so I avoid that spot when I wedge. it is 3 ft deep by about 5 ft. long. My advice- don't worry about plaster or cement, just get a sheet of smooth plywood, cover with canvas, and you are set. TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal and mud Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I made mine to fit my height. It has 4 x 4 legs and I can store clay on dollies underneath. I have 3" of plaster for my waging table. I like plaster because it absorbs moisture. I can wash it with a sponge for changing clay bodies. Marcia Do you have problems with the plaster coming off and trying to contaminate your clay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meghanmuir Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 My father and I just built a work table. We used 4x4's for legs, 2x4 rails and a plywood top. I also got a sheet of mdf board (I call is masonite, but it's that peg board stuff without the holes) for the top. Screwed it down on top of the plywood and then put some linseed oil on it. Works great and is a solid table for wedging and working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 My father and I just built a work table. We used 4x4's for legs, 2x4 rails and a plywood top. I also got a sheet of mdf board (I call is masonite, but it's that peg board stuff without the holes) for the top. Screwed it down on top of the plywood and then put some linseed oil on it. Works great and is a solid table for wedging and working. MDF is a great way to go. You can also get it cut to size at the lumber yard TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~janie Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 My work table is a plywood top on folding legs. To make it the right height, we cut 12" long PVC pipe (1 1/2") and slipped them over the legs. They stop going up the legs where it curves, and make the whole thing sturdy. I covered it with canvas, and use a 2'x2' piece of sheetrock to work on. It saves my canvas. The wedging table is a little table about 4'x2' that Bobby built for a welding table. The top is a metal frame that he glued 2x4s together to make it 4" thick. for a good solid top. I poured plaster into 2'x2' frames and cut a piece of plywood for them to set on. Cover the whole thing with canvas, staple it to the plywood bottom and they are good wedging bats. One is for white clay, one for red/brown, and I have a smaller one for porcelain. I love my little studio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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