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fusing items together with glaze


meisie

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I made a really nice bowl out of slabs draped over metal bowl I had. Once dry it made a nice form and I bisqued it. It came out of the kiln with a two inch chip out of the bottom (no hole). I am assuming that there may have been an air pocket and I didn't press the slabs together enough. The instructor I have worked with is big into gluing things back together and it's good as new. I'm not really a fan of that, it seems chintzy and then it's a repair job, I don't feel comfortable selling it. However I was thinking if I could throw a nice plate for the bottom as a base both could be glazed and I could set the bowl on the plate during the glaze firing. Would they then fuse? Does this work? Any suggestions or things to watch out for would be appreciated.

thanks

Renee

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I made a really nice bowl out of slabs draped over metal bowl I had. Once dry it made a nice form and I bisqued it. It came out of the kiln with a two inch chip out of the bottom (no hole). I am assuming that there may have been an air pocket and I didn't press the slabs together enough. The instructor I have worked with is big into gluing things back together and it's good as new. I'm not really a fan of that, it seems chintzy and then it's a repair job, I don't feel comfortable selling it. However I was thinking if I could throw a nice plate for the bottom as a base both could be glazed and I could set the bowl on the plate during the glaze firing. Would they then fuse? Does this work? Any suggestions or things to watch out for would be appreciated.

thanks

Renee

 

Fusing does work in many cases by using a glaze between the two sections. It often can repair something of value to the potter. Your chip sounds strange, I wonder if it was not dry enough to fire, or if it was fired too quickly. Air pockets do not cause chips, but poor joining can. Interesting problem, but I think you have hit on a reasonable solution.

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I made a really nice bowl out of slabs draped over metal bowl I had. Once dry it made a nice form and I bisqued it. It came out of the kiln with a two inch chip out of the bottom (no hole). I am assuming that there may have been an air pocket and I didn't press the slabs together enough. The instructor I have worked with is big into gluing things back together and it's good as new. I'm not really a fan of that, it seems chintzy and then it's a repair job, I don't feel comfortable selling it. However I was thinking if I could throw a nice plate for the bottom as a base both could be glazed and I could set the bowl on the plate during the glaze firing. Would they then fuse? Does this work? Any suggestions or things to watch out for would be appreciated.

thanks

Renee

 

Fusing does work in many cases by using a glaze between the two sections. It often can repair something of value to the potter. Your chip sounds strange, I wonder if it was not dry enough to fire, or if it was fired too quickly. Air pockets do not cause chips, but poor joining can. Interesting problem, but I think you have hit on a reasonable solution.

 

Thanks for the reply. I actually have several bowls that broke in that firing which I suspected was due to not being dry enough. (a humid cellar) This particular bowl may also not have been joined properly. It was really the first time I tried a slab bowl of that nature. But the really strange one was a urn I made for my sisters dogs ashes. It's been sitting on my shelf for more than a month and it's wheel thrown and it also had a chip out of the bottom and I can't figure that one out at all. But I'm having bad luck anyway, Yesterday I dropped a bowl while glazing and it broke. Full moon....I'm gonna take a break for a couple of days.

 

 

 

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You might consider a preheat to your bisque firing cycle, or if you already do so, add some more time. I generally preheat bisque for two hours at about 200 degrees farenheit. That allows any dampness to be slowly dried out. If you have a vent, the fan will remove any steam; if you don't have a vent, then take out the top kiln plug or prop the lid open a little bit to allow the steam to escape.

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You might consider a preheat to your bisque firing cycle, or if you already do so, add some more time. I generally preheat bisque for two hours at about 200 degrees farenheit. That allows any dampness to be slowly dried out. If you have a vent, the fan will remove any steam; if you don't have a vent, then take out the top kiln plug or prop the lid open a little bit to allow the steam to escape.

 

Thanks I think I will have to do this. I never have had to before but with the dampness in the cellar things are just not drying and that's probably the problem.

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You might consider a preheat to your bisque firing cycle, or if you already do so, add some more time. I generally preheat bisque for two hours at about 200 degrees farenheit. That allows any dampness to be slowly dried out. If you have a vent, the fan will remove any steam; if you don't have a vent, then take out the top kiln plug or prop the lid open a little bit to allow the steam to escape.

 

Thanks I think I will have to do this. I never have had to before but with the dampness in the cellar things are just not drying and that's probably the problem.

 

This preheat is also know as water smoking, and is a good way to remove atmospheric moisture from the pottery. Since your basement is damp, you may need to leave the lid propped, and put the bottom on lowest setting for an hr, then add the next level up, or close the lid a little more. I often begin with the lid off for an hr, then propped for another hr, then turn another switch on to lowest, then close lid and then an hr later start the ramp up. It may burn a little more, but can potentially cut out many bisque problems.

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You might consider a preheat to your bisque firing cycle, or if you already do so, add some more time. I generally preheat bisque for two hours at about 200 degrees farenheit. That allows any dampness to be slowly dried out. If you have a vent, the fan will remove any steam; if you don't have a vent, then take out the top kiln plug or prop the lid open a little bit to allow the steam to escape.

 

Thanks I think I will have to do this. I never have had to before but with the dampness in the cellar things are just not drying and that's probably the problem.

 

This preheat is also know as water smoking, and is a good way to remove atmospheric moisture from the pottery. Since your basement is damp, you may need to leave the lid propped, and put the bottom on lowest setting for an hr, then add the next level up, or close the lid a little more. I often begin with the lid off for an hr, then propped for another hr, then turn another switch on to lowest, then close lid and then an hr later start the ramp up. It may burn a little more, but can potentially cut out many bisque problems.

 

 

 

Thank you

I think that's exactly what I need to do. Learning everyday.....:-)

 

 

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