carissman Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I'm using a black underglaze wash for Mishima work on bisqued, white earthenware. When I sponge it off, (sponge just damp,) the wash stains badly in areas where I don't want it. I've tried waxing around the design, (okay but can't wax exactly due to the complexity of the design,) and sanding, (also just okay because the incised design is shallow.) Is there a brand of underglaze that doesn't stain when wiped back? Other suggestions? Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Black is notorious for staining when wiped off. I have found that dark brown works a lot better, at least with the Speedball underglazes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRankin Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I just did this. Make sure your sponge is rinsed after every wipe and only use the clean part of the sponge once or you are just applying the wash back onto the piece and it wil smear more. I then sanded off the smeared areas, because no matter what you do there will be some, with coarse sandpaper. Its a lot of work but I haven't found any better way to do it either. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy_in_GA Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I have seen multiple posts from others on this forum regarding a more precise way to apply. You wax your design area first, carve through the wax then apply the stain. It only sinks into the carving and beads up on the waxed area where you can easily wipe it away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiselleNo5 Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I have seen multiple posts from others on this forum regarding a more precise way to apply. You wax your design area first, carve through the wax then apply the stain. It only sinks into the carving and beads up on the waxed area where you can easily wipe it away. I have been doing this with my flower designs and it has saved me so much time and trouble, I wish I'd tried it sooner. Carissman, I would definitely recommend trying this! You can do the wax on leather hard and carve through for the design, or do it on bisqued ware too. http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/ceramic-decorating-techniques/how-to-use-slip-inlay-with-wax-to-create-thin-lined-decoration-on-pottery/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 That's how I do thin black lines. Wax the area to be designed then carve through the wax, apply the black wipe it off. Works really well. If you are doing Mishima why aren't you doing all of the work at the greenware stage. Just curious. When I do Mishima I start at leatherhard apply slip trailed designs and layers of colors scrape back the colors at bone dry stage (wear a mask).to reveal the final design. I Find it quite easy to remove all of the excess colors working at this stage unlike doing it after it is bisque fired. I'm just curious as to your technique and always interested in learning new ways of doing things. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Ditto to the above three posts. Great way to do thin lines, while protecting the surrounded areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiselleNo5 Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 When I do Mishima I start at leatherhard apply slip trailed designs and layers of colors scrape back the colors at bone dry stage (wear a mask).to reveal the final design. Ohhh is that how you do it ... I have been scraping off the excess when it's just set up and it's so smeary, I wondered what I was doing wrong ... I'm so clever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judith B Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 yep, i find it a lot easier to scrape off the excess when it's dry. You can sand it to get really precise results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carissman Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Thanks for the good ideas. Here's the problem: I'm impressing FEATHERS in soft earthenware, bisquing, and then using a wash of underglaze to emphasize the design. (Maybe that's not even mishima.) So the carve-through-wax technique, though great, isn't appropriate. And I think the impression is too shallow to wash and then scrape back at the bone dry stage...but maybe. Any other thoughts? I have attached an image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Maybe one of these will work . . . https://www.google.com/search?q=fingerprint+brushes+and+powders&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCsQsARqFQoTCPLLmuaLz8cCFccXPgodEV0EWA&biw=1600&bih=698I've not tried them, but they might be worth a try. Apply dry black mason stain to the fingerprint dusting brush and then dust the feather area; may take some practice to get the application right and you could always use a paper or flexible plastic outline of the feather to prevent stain from getting on adjacent areas. I think apply to greenware would offer the best luck for success as the dry stain would adhere to the damp surface and you then bisque the stain before applying glaze over it later. Plus, Mason stain has frit in it so it will be less likely to smudge after bisque firing. After bisque, you could also lightly sand any stain that got in areas outside the feather. Applying fingerprint dust (or mason stain) is an art, a little dust goes a long way. And, if you try this, be sure to wear an appropriate protective mask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carissman Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 What an interesting idea! Maybe I'll get out the old make-up brushes. I would think bone-dry would be the best surface--you could really dust the unwanted stain away. I'll let you know how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRankin Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 This is what I was working on yesterday and explaining in my previous post. These are stretched pots and because of all the random cracks it was the only way I could deal with the black oxide wash. The second, darker one, still needs a little more sanding. The clear, glossy glaze will mask most of the slightly smudged areas. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiselleNo5 Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Haha! I have an idea, but it will probably ruin the feather. What would happen if you pressed the feather in, then waxed over and around it so that most of the area is masked off? Maybe try with a small feather on a small piece of clay. You can get the wax off the feather with hot water but not sure what it'll do to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judith B Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 And what about you press the feather onto the clay, bisque-fire it, and then apply the colour? There wouldn't be any risk of messing up the print you made Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 This might be strange and probably not work but.... That's never stopped a potter from trying something! Have you thought of dusting the feather with dry black Mason stain then laying it on your piece and pressing it in with a rolling pin? The dry stain shouldn't damage the feather and by dusting the feather with it it should limit the amount of excess stain you have and hopefully not get all over the place. You would have to handle the stain dusted feather carefully. Oh and wear a mask please! Then by placing the "loaded" feather on your wet clay and rolling it in hopefully it will give you a nice feather pattern impressed in the clay and already colored. Just an idea to maybe try unless you have already done so and it didn't work. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrgpots Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 You may want to place piece of material over the feather before rolling so the roller does not pick up the stain and smear it. Jed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Jed - what a GOOD IDEA, if I were doing this technique I would definitely try it with a piece of wax paper between the feather and the roller. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carissman Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Brilliant ideas. Thanks very much. I'm going to try putting dry mason stain on the feather and ithen mpressing it into the soft clay. And Im going to impress the feather into the clay and then, when bone dry maybe, dust with dry mason stain. I'll let you know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judith B Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 The mishima technique on bisque ware is a bit easier as the carving can't get smudged or anything. If the colour is liquid enough, it should flow really easily into the carving (you do the print on raw clay of course, and then bisque-fire). Then you can always sand the excess without messing up everything too much There's a potter who does something similar as what you want, but with leaves. Her brand name is Kanimbla Clay, maybe you can try to contact her, see how she does it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinks Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Great ideas mentioned above.But whenever i choose to apply Mishima during the leather hard state(greenware). Also once you have painted the piece with one coat of the underglazeor slip,let it air dry back to a dry leather hard state before moving on to the other step of wiping your surface.If you wipe your pot too soon after applying the underglaze there will be lot of streaking of underglaze .Also double check that your H2O is clean,if not change the water and try wiping,again. If there is still streaking once you have wiped your piece and you are concerned,let the piece be bone dry.Then sand the surface gently with a green kitchen scrub such as "Scotch Brite pad".(Be safe and wear a dust mask). Vinks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabama Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 The way I stain is to incise designs, or in the case of leaves on slabs, press in with a roller. Bisque, then stain. I work mostly with red stoneware, but it works for me. Good luck trying the many different methods...but try to remember to post your final results and why that way was chosen. Alabama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kikiberyl Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 On 8/28/2015 at 2:30 PM, Judy_in_GA said: I have seen multiple posts from others on this forum regarding a more precise way to apply. You wax your design area first, carve through the wax then apply the stain. It only sinks into the carving and beads up on the waxed area where you can easily wipe it away. What if you want to glaze over the whole piece afterwards?? What would you do? Thank you for your help. Manitoba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 18 minutes ago, Kikiberyl said: What if you want to glaze over the whole piece afterwards?? What would you do? Thank you for your help. Manitoba Wax resist is applied to leatherhard pots then when the wax is dry you carve through it and brush underglaze onto the pot. Underglaze stays in the carved areas and gets wiped of the wax resisted areas then the pot is left to dry then bisque fired. Wax burns off in the bisque so glazing goes ahead as usual. (single firing aka raw glazing pots would't work with this method) Brand of wax resist makes a difference, some wax resists work better than others. Welcome to the forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.