Swanee Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 My son, made a really neat sculpture, I bisque fired it and he then "glazed" it with pure mason stains. (my bad, unsupervised kid in the studio.) This of course is not a glaze, and I have no idea how to make it work. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucille Oka Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 My son, made a really neat sculpture, I bisque fired it and he then "glazed" it with pure mason stains. (my bad, unsupervised kid in the studio.) This of course is not a glaze, and I have no idea how to make it work. Any suggestions? Did he apply a very thick coating of the stain? Explain to him that it was not a proper application, that he used stain and not a glaze, and that he must start again with you in the studio. You can then wash the stain off the piece; you can use an old toothbrush to scrub it a bit. Some color may remain in the crevices he might like that effect. If you rinse off the stain you are also water soaking the piece. You must wait for the piece to dry a bit before it will accept the actual glaze coating. Using a clear glaze might be a good choice to show the tint of color that may be remaining. If the clear glaze is not a suitable choice then he can apply the glaze that he had intended to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobg Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Take a 3M scuff pad and get as much off as you can. Then glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swanee Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Thanks, I thought it had to be removed, just took a chance that something else might be done to preserve the original work. Just another growing experience! Thanks again, Swanee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 The solution depends on how thick of an application he got onto the surface and what temperature you fired it to. to remove it, I would recommend using a CIA ad aka diamond pad. That will take a lot of work. several attempts and spraying a clear glaze might get you a good coating...but if you have straight stain, the glaze could run. It would be best to send off some stain with adiamondpad. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucille Oka Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 For my own information was the Mason stain fired or not? I assumed it had not been. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucille Oka Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 It appears I had a wonkie post sorry everyone. Not sure what happened. I said in that post that if Swanee is going to remove the Mason stain with a 'dry' method then a respirator is needed as well as goggles. Be sure that children and pets are not in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 My son, made a really neat sculpture, I bisque fired it and he then "glazed" it with pure mason stains. (my bad, unsupervised kid in the studio.) This of course is not a glaze, and I have no idea how to make it work. Any suggestions? This sort of thing happened in my HS studio at times. I bisque to 06, high for some these days, but made problems like this easy. If stained with something that didn't soak in too deep like a thick coat of Mason, I would wash off what I could, then put in a tub of water to soak with a small aquarium pump in it. overnight, and most times the stain was removed from all areas except for a little light hogs bristle brush work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.