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Stacking Mugs?


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I am working on creating a stacking formal mug. Does anyone have any tips or advice on this topic? there is not much info on the Internet about stacking mugs specifically. I am using standard 213. Mug dims are 4"wX2.75"t. Clay balls are 1.25lbs these do not have a trimmed foot. Just a45 degree beveled foot edge and a flat bottom.

A couple questions I have are:

1.I am using the lid master caliper, are there any other more precise tools for measuring a good fit? More specifically, should I measure the foot first and adjust the rim, or the rim first and fit the foot?

2. I am getting a lot of distortion of the rim in the initial drying process. Is it ok to stack the mugs after the handles are attached while they are still leather hard? Also should they be stacked for firing? My concern is that they will get stuck together like a teapot lid.

 

I would love to see photos of your pots if you are willing to share. Or any links to video on how to get pots to fit snugly.

Thanks.

Clay tile mom

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I am working on creating a stacking formal mug. Does anyone have any tips or advice on this topic? there is not much info on the Internet about stacking mugs specifically. I am using standard 213. Mug dims are 4"wX2.75"t. Clay balls are 1.25lbs these do not have a trimmed foot. Just a45 degree beveled foot edge and a flat bottom.

A couple questions I have are:

1.I am using the lid master caliper, are there any other more precise tools for measuring a good fit? More specifically, should I measure the foot first and adjust the rim, or the rim first and fit the foot?

2. I am getting a lot of distortion of the rim in the initial drying process. Is it ok to stack the mugs after the handles are attached while they are still leather hard? Also should they be stacked for firing? My concern is that they will get stuck together like a teapot lid.

 

I would love to see photos of your pots if you are willing to share. Or any links to video on how to get pots to fit snugly.

Thanks.

Clay tile mom

 

Yes, you can stack leather hard pieces. However, should you have problems with sticking, a small bowl or section of PVC piping the same diameter as your rim can be used as a form. If you make the foot heavier than you want the finished piece to be, then you can trim it easily. Adjusting the rim, especially in a leathe hard piece, can lead to the piece reverting to its original shape during firing.

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I've found that if I don't have lids on - on tight fitting canister, jars, t-pots etc. the diameter will get to small in the bisque firing and the lids will no longer fit as the opening closed up too much or they distort.

 

However if I fire and have lids in them the diameter stays correct. This is with earthenware BTW,

 

So I guess what I'm getting at you will have different shrinkage if you fire them stacked compared to not stacking when bisque firing. with them stacked you will also get less distortion.

 

Another option that would keep (cup) opening from shrinking is I use old bisqued lids to the same effect and have a variety of sizes I can use in various openings when bisque firing.

 

Hope I'm making a little bit of sense as it's been a long day...

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To prevent distortion, I set a styrofoam cup (with the bottoms cut off) inside a cup or mug until it is near leather hard. That allows the cup/mug to dry, yet keep its roundness. The styrofoam is pliable enough that as the cup/mug shrinks while drying, it gives and does not crack the form.

 

I do not stack cups/mugs while they are drying. I place items for drying on a wareboard that is covered with a sheet of newsprint or plastic; that allows them to move/shrink over a smooth surface while drying. Items do not dry at the same speed/rate, so stacking them while still drying could cause uneveness in drying and affect form.

 

 

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