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Found 5 results

  1. On a recent Clayflix tutorial by Lisa Naples she mentioned she fires her earthenware to cone 1 or 2, which reduces the water absorption rate by a huge amount and renders the clay almost vitreous. Does anyone have experience with this and, if so, what clay do you use?
  2. Hello guys, My name is Talha and I am new to this forum. I like arts and crafts of all sort and am taking little bit of knowledge + practice from high school art 1 and 2 class to work on random projects. Recently I have been wanting to make a waterfall for my cat. My cat likes to drink water out of my mom's vase (made of clay) which has a money plant in it. He has a plastic waterer, but he does not use it at all. So I thought id make him a waterer with a plant in it. What clay should I use? I saw one clay at michaels and it was an air drying one. Should I go with the classic clay
  3. From the album: Favorites

    This was a custom order I completed last year. I love the way it came out. It's wheel thrown, with thrown feet. applied engobe and underglaze, hand painted and textured. Commercial glazes fired ^6 electric.

    © Firenflux

  4. I want to make a thicker iron oxide for brushing onto my pieces. First off its a complete mess when mixed with water. Second all the iron particles end up at the bottom unless you are continually stirring which still makes for an inconsistent tone and tint of the application. What is the general rule for getting suspension of particles in a water based stain / glaze / etc... a frit? I'm firing at cone 6 always and cone 04 for bisque. The application will be on bisqueware not greenware.
  5. Has anyone found a good solution for warming the water in a Cink? Over the winter, my studio gets cold, and the water in the Cink gets painfully cold. I don't need it to be hot or even warm, just not really cold. I have to believe someone's already worked this out. Any suggestions?
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