Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'vent'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 16 results

  1. Hi Guys, I have a small test kiln from paragon that has one peep hole and no vent. Everyone that I have contacted says that small test kilns don't need to be vented, just prop the lid open for the first few hours of firing and then close it. I have not had any success with this. I tried keeping it propped open until it reaches 1400 degrees, however it never reaches that temperature probably because the heat is escaping. It's mainly affecting my red glazes right now, however all of my glazes come out very dark and the red ones look burnt and brown ALL the time. After doing a lot of research, I can only guess that its because there isn't proper ventilation happening inside of the kiln. Is there a way that I can vent the kiln myself? I can't really afford an actual venting system right now, and I don't even know if those would work on my kiln because it's so small. Does anyone have any recommendations?
  2. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  3. Hello community, first post, looking for help. Got an old Skutt kilnsetter model 231 (electric) kiln donated to me. Specs for the kiln are single phase 240volt pulling 47AMP. The electricians who ran the line apparently only installed 40amp breakers which I am working to fix, the kiln constantly trips the breaker when going to high on all 3 knobs. I just bought the envirovent downdraft vent kit for the kiln, but since this thing is older than I am, I am worried it will be pulling air in from all the gaps in each section - (base to section 1 aka low section, section 1-2, 2-3, and 3-lid). I blame this intelligent community for my paranoia because until recently I had been keeping only 1 peep hole open on firings but a recent glazed bisque firing yielded a bunch of what looked like burnt pieces and it was devastating. There was post about oxidation kilns and how I should be firing greenware with all peep holes open and the lid propped by ceramic fiber blanket until I reach 1700F. This took a lot longer, especially with me running down to breaker to reset (wrong amperage breaker, will fix) but in order to increase efficiency I want to seal each gap with blanket on the outside, was thinking of buying more fiber blanket, cutting strips 3-4 inches wide, and wrapping around the kiln so the downdraft vent can successfully pull air in through the top. Or wrapping around most of outside except manual dial area. I don't have actual peep hole plugs so I made some out of clay, which I would keep in place and figure out some way to insulate those with blanket too. Is this necessary? I read some forum where there was a comment made about the blanket causing issues for the steel wrapping around the firebrick which I would be covering and I dont want to cause more issues. I also have some kiln cement I could mix in and attempt to spackle in each gap but I already know this wont stay, seal, or work well. chemical hazard with the kiln cement as well, not ideal. The kiln and its firebrick is in ok condition, I think the kiln is 30 years old, but the small gaps will very likely reduce effectiveness of the drilled holes. I'm worried I'll do all this work installing the vent, and when I hold a flame to the lid holes I drilled, it won't suck it in much. Also, being an engineer I like the idea of insulating the outside of the kiln if there aren't many risks associated with this. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR THOUGHTS AND COMMENTS!
  4. Hi There, I have an e23T L&L kiln. I have 1/4" holes in the bottom of the kiln. There are 2. I've been having trouble with bloating and pin holes during glazing. A colleague suggested I might need to drill a couple of holes in the lid to help with the air circulation. I read in the L&L manual not to add more holes. How can I tell if I need more holes or not? Thanks!
  5. I have a space I would like to fire in. 11x11, with concrete block walls, with a wood ceiling. I have thought to cover the wood with concrete board. It's a walk out basement area, so it only has a door to vent it, does any one have anything creative to vent the heat out of this space. I can put a box fan in the door way, short of that, I'm interested in any ideas.
  6. Hi all, I'm in Montreal and am wondering if people have had success with air purifiers in the studio. We have an air vent connected to the window which we use for sanding and glaze mixing (and for the kiln of course), but I'm talking about general dust buildup and air quality. Our studio has about 20 members (kind of works like a gym but for ceramics) so it gets dusty really easily. Do plug-in air filters/purifiers work to help take harmful dust particles out of the air? If so, which models do you all recommend? Low wattage is best as our electrical wiring is pretty sketchy and the fuse tends to break fairly often. Thanks!
  7. Does anyone have preferences about the venting systems available (to Canadians)? I have not been able to find any reviews online. We currently have an Ortons on order to be installed on our new bisque kiln, but studio partners want to look at other options. It was only ordered today, so hopefully we can cancel the vent order if we change our minds within the next day or so. Any thoughts?
  8. Hi all, Looking for some help. Firing my kiln today, doing something new. Doing a programmed ramp and cool down. After 250 degrees I am ramping at 500 degrees an hour to 1978 degrees (farenhieght). My kiln vent is on and appears to be working properly. The only other difference is the kiln is loaded with three new glazes. I have thoroughly tested the glazes, just never done a load of just the new glazes. Firing to a top temp of 2225. Using a cone 6 red clay, same as usual. The problem, the studio smells, really strongly. It is a normal firing smell as in my previous place I fired in an open garage. I pulled out my respirator and am wearing it to check the kiln. Luckily the smell isn't penetrating to the rest of the house. Any ideas? My only thought is I am using glazes made with Alberta Slip. Could it be possible it has a lot of organics in it? Thanks for any help. Chantay
  9. I'd like to build my own downdraft vent, and would appreciate answers to a number of questions. I have a lot of questions, so don't feel obliged to answer all of them. Based on the manuals for the Orton Vent Master, L&L Vent-Sure and Skutt EnviroVent 2, the main components I will need are: Collection cup with adjustable opening that sits under the kiln A blower A flexible duct connecting the collection cup to the blower Besides figuring out the specs of these components, I need to be sure I can obtain these (preferably locally - I'm in South Africa, and shipping from the US is expensive. We also have a never-ending post-office strike). I'd like to make my own ceramic collection cup. The main problem with this is connecting the duct to the collection cup. However, I should be able to make a sleeve sticking out of the collection cup on one side with a diameter roughly equal to that of the duct, and can use a hose clamp or silicon adhesive to attach the duct around the sleeve. If it isn't completely airtight, this shouldn't be a problem. For the adjustable opening, I'll have one or more holes in the sides of the cup. The cup will sit on a larger slab, so that I can place half-bricks around the cup to partially block the holes, thus controlling the air-flow. I'm not sure if I'll be able to obtain the standard kiln-vent blower (Dayton 1TDP7 PSC - mentioned by Neil Estrick in a previous post) locally. Would any other blower with a high enough CFM rating work as well, or is there something about this design that makes it good for kiln vents? Grype mentioned it was difficult to find ducting, but I will try a local company that makes vents. There might also be a possibility of getting some used duct for free, but I need to check the length and diameter. Any thoughts on what type of material (aluminium / galvanised steel / high temp black flex hose) works best? Is anything I've outlined above a terrible idea? Is there anything I could be better or more easily at the same price? Some more questions: What should the dimensions of the collection cup be? Does using a cube with interior side length of 4" seem about right? (I'm using inches since most folks on this forum seem to use them; apologies if you prefer the metric system). Should I put a 1" hole on each side of the box other than the one where the duct connects to it? L&L, whose blower is 130 CFM, mentions that vents can overpower smaller kilns. My kiln, a Paragon TnF-82, has a volume of only 3.3 cubic feet, so I think a blower with a smaller CFM rating is necessary and sufficient. The Orton Vent Master has a CFM of 60 - 80, and is good for kilns up to 14 cubic feet. Assuming the same ratio of CFM to kiln volume will work for my kiln, I should be fine with a blower having a CFM of 20, but I'm not sure whether this assumption is justified. If I do use a weaker blower, should the hole I drill in the bottom of the kiln have a diameter larger than 1/4"? Should I drill a hole in the lid? Orton and Skutt recommend this, while L&L says this isn't necessary. There is an existing hole in the centre of the lid (1/2" diameter, I think), but Orton and Skutt recommend the hole be drilled 1" from the inside of the kiln wall. Is this because the resulting airflow is better? Should I leave things as they are and drill a hole later if necessary? What size holes should I put in the duct, and how far apart should they be spaced?
  10. So, the envirovent was accidentally left off during a slow bisque fire. Obviously, the kiln atmosphere was not oxygen rich. Can the work be re-bisque fired to correct some of the potential problems?
  11. I just joined today so please go easy on me . . . I'm a fairly experienced student and I love cone 10 reduction. My only kiln firing education experience was very limited and over five years ago, at a well-equipped big city community college with huge kilns burning natural gas. I was a newbie just following precise instructions from the instructor, so I'm just about completely ignorant in practice. I am now 500 miles away on a small farm with the new-to-me 12 cubic ft updraft kiln all hooked up to my 250 gal propane tank. The kiln is 7 ft in height including the ~ 2' iron stand. There is also a pyramidal sheet metal hood on top, which adds another foot for a total of 8' in height. Between droughts we get RAIN here in the winter and often it's falling "horizontally" and in summer quite a strong breeze in the late afternoon. In short, my kiln needs to be in an enclosure to keep it dry and the wind away from the burners. I want to build a permanent shed around it. I have a few questions related to that: How high above the kiln vents should the metal ceiling of the shed be? What's the ideal size for an opening in the shed ceiling above the vent for a kiln this size being fired to cone 10? This opening will be covered with a rain cap so I can fire in winter, too. Will heat pretty much go straight up and out of the vent? I'm thinking the rain cap is going to get extremely hot, is that correct? How far above the kiln vents should it be? i.e. does it need to be on top of a wire "stovepipe" or something like that? Any suggestions for "room size" for the shed? I know I'll be needing to control air to fuel ratio using the vents at the top and will need some space for moving around to do that safely. Fortunately on ag zoned land few regulations seem to apply to what we do out here and we are avid about keeping brush cleared, etc. for fire safety. Also I've met a retired ceramics teacher and she is going to fire her own pieces and help out/oversee/advise once I start to actually use the kiln. Plus one of the propane company guys is interested enought to want to see it in action, so once we're firing things should be safe and sane, despite my being totally in over my head. All my best, Roberta
  12. Three questions: (1) The manual (yes, actually read & referenced) for my L&L Easy Fire kiln, plus an Orton Tips sheet, say to have the vent (Vent Sure) running continuously throughout the firing. Both specify to NOT open any peep holes. OK...but then how do I see my witness cones? And if the answer is in front of my nose somewhere, please be gentle as you chuckle! (2) The instructions for upon firing completion say it is safe (and preferred, I gather) to turn off the kiln. It also says that the controller will continue to read out the temperature as it cools down. Well, once I turn the kiln off (toggle off) and turn off the juice (main breaker), there is no read out on the control panel. So how am I supposed to know the temp as it cools? And if that info is in front of my nose, same petition for mercy as in #1. (3) About how long is an "average" (I know, no such thing) cool down? The manual does not speak to this at all (other than instructing to keep the vent running and don't open the peep holes). Based on what I have read in other sources, some say roughly twice as many hours as the fire, some say about the same number of hours as the fire, some say just wait until there is no warmth felt at all on the surface, and some say when it is 200 degrees or less...but per #2 (kiln off, no lights/read out on control panel), I have no way to know what the temp is. So-am I doing something wrong with the shut-off? At this point I don't care if the info is in front of my nose and the reader is rolling on the floor--just gimme the how-to's that I am clearly missing. THANKS in advance.
  13. I installed a skutt envirovent 2 several months ago to help deal with fumes when firing (especially wax resist). My studio is in my basement and as I've transitioned to being a full time potter, I'm firing 2 or 3 days a week. The fumes were definitely shortening my life. Lol Vent worked perfectly until about a week ago when I started noticing fumes again. And tonight the smell was so bad it woke me from a dead sleep to open all the windows (even though its snowing with 60mph wind). So, I'm sitting in my living room at 2am in a parka and bunny slippers hoping someone has some experience troubleshooting these vents. -outside there is still warm air actively blowing from the vent -ducting is still attached at plenum cup,the joint between the first piece of duct house and the extension, and up at the motor -checked the holes in kiln floor and lid after I first noticed the smell last week and none were obstructed. Plenum cup seated correctly around the floor holes -the two half shelves on the kiln floor are raised up and spaced with a gap between them. I did notice that my lid doesn't seem to really seal when closed. The gap seems to be where two bricks are a little lower than the others, but we're Talking like 1mm difference maybe. The kiln hasnt been moved or bumped though, so I don't see how that could have been a recent development, and like I said, the vent has worked fine for over a month. Any thoughts or suggestions on what to check?
  14. Setting up an Evenheat programmable 25x23" electric kiln in a basement room that is 15x20'. Questions: 1. Is it safe to vent to the garage, avoiding drilling through the foundation, and propping open a door to the outside? 2. Are fire retardant boards on the walls in the corner good enough or do we have to put plasterboard on the reat of the walls? 3. Will a fire alarm go off is we fire to Cone 6 and, if so, how far from the kiln should it go? Thanks
  15. Has anyone found a suitable replacement motor for Skutt's Envirovent 2? I realize Skutt sells replacements, but was hoping for something less expensive and easily swapped with the old motor. Thanks! Regards, No Draft
  16. Hi I Need to buy a new kiln, and i was offer to install an orton vent master. Is it a good thing, what will be the advantages? or disadvantages? Right now i have a bathroom fan installed with a huge round ducking over the kiln. Will the colors of glazes change? Thanks Sylvain
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.