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Found 11 results

  1. A couple years ago, I got a Duncan EA-820 manual kiln off of Craigslist. Paid about $50 for it. My garage was already wired with a 240v outlet, so I was excited to start exploring pottery. However, when I turned the kiln on, I heard a clicking so rapid, it would more aptly be described as a chattering. After some basic troubleshooting and Googling, I found it was the relay which was clicking. Thinking, perhaps the relay was bad, I replaced it. The new one not only clicked repetitively, but promptly began to melt. Frustrated, I moved on to another project and then life got in th
  2. Hey Folks, I’ve had my Shimpoo VL Lite for about a year and a half now (bought it new) and the other day I noticed it was rotating and then kicking off, then rotating then kicking off over and over again with steady pressure on the foot pedal. I switched it off and back on again which seemed to solve the issue and I threw some pots with it functioning normally. Today went to throw and it did the same thing, I tried to reset it and now it won’t turn on. No light on the power switch and obviously no wheel rotation. I don’t know much about electrical stuff but I think it may have blown a fu
  3. Hey everybody, I’m having trouble with my Shimpo. It was given to me by my college because it was sitting in a corner collecting dust. it runs, but it definitely needs new motor mounts and some work underneath. my main concern is that it isn’t running in the forward mode or counterclockwise, instead it’s running clockwise in reverse and forward. the parts number for the is tanac006232-rk2, but the part has been discontinued seeing as though the wheel was manfactured some time between the late 60s and mid 70s. Is there any way to resolve this issue through soldering, as a
  4. Hi All, I am trying out barrel firing whilst in lockdown as I do not have access to a kiln. I'm having some problems. The first firing I used the following 60cm pit dug 3-4 inches on fine sawdust pots (some wrapped in foil, some not) Salt Seaweed Red Iron Oxide More sawdust Kindling, then smaller logs up to larger logs Paper to get the fire going. The fire burned for about 2 hours and I think put a lid on and sealed the edges. Next moring it was still quite hot when I took the lid off, so i left it to cool a while. The pots we
  5. Hello everyone, this is my first time on the forum, so glad I found you all. I wonder if anyone can help me with my slipcasting problem? I have made a narrow (4cm) and tall (26cm) cylinder mould and although the first cast came out satisfactory, the next three have came out the mould with the bases ‘sucked’ in/imploded. Could it be that the opening to the mould is too narrow to drain the slip? Or could my slip be too thick? When I cut into the cast it was still filled with slip about a quarter of the way up the form. If my slip is too thick, could I add a little water to thin it down?
  6. I have an old Amaco Model 15 pottery wheel. It works fine except it makes a horrible noise similar to a coin bouncing around in a dryer. I am guessing a screw or ball bearing came loose and is being batted around as the wheel turns. Any suggestions on a fix?
  7. Hi all, Second time posting here and I’m hoping you can help! Hopefully this is the right place to be for a troubleshooting question like this. Im currently working from a recipe for Val Cushing’s Cone 6 Porcelain Slip. grolleg: 15% tile 6: 15% Epk: 3% om4: 10% flint: 25% neph sy: 30% gerstley borate: 2% —————————— Sodium silicate: .0028% calgon: .0005% When I mixed this before, as now, I subbed the deflocculants with Darvan. I mixed it successfully then, but I’m currently have difficulty. I know that darvan generally subs
  8. Hello, I’m new to ceramics and have been working with some mid-fire porcelain clay as well as white earthenware clay. I made several hundred small jewellery pieces from both clays and had them bisque fired at a local kiln service. Unfortunately they combined all my work together and now I don’t know which is porcelain and which is white earthenware, soI don’t know which clear glaze to use on which piece. Might anyone be able to give me some advice about what I could do? Are these pieces salvagable or bound for the bin?
  9. Hi, I am not an artist, but am helping my daughter set up a new studio in her garage. Or a garagio as I believe it is sometimes called here. She has worked in a community studio for some time, and now wants more control over her work. The plan is to slowly add to the studio and eventually transition to it over the next year or two. She recently bought a used Skutt KM 1027 kiln which we wired up while I was visiting. This kiln has built in diagnostics, so I was wondering if regularly testing the element resistance is really needed most of the time. From the diagnostics screen you can have th
  10. Hi all, I've posted about this local clay body before and I'm checking with the forum to get ideas on trouble shooting another issue. I'm firing to cone 05/04. The body itself is a beautiful lowfire body but after the bisque it gets a white scum on the surface . I'm not sure what it is that's causing the whiting but I think that the clay body would be gallery quality were it not for this blemish. I have sanded the surface after firing and the white can be removed. Obviously this is not a solution but it confirms that there is a beautiful clay body just below the surface. Any ideas
  11. Hey y'all -- So I have an old Jenken sitter kiln I got from a retired potter (along with my other equipment). Earlier this year I converted to fire with gas (downdraft), using a homemade cast-iron burner with a squirrel-cage fan. I don't have any issues getting it up to temperature, but I have noticed that it is significantly cooler closer to the bottom of the kiln, and it feels like an unacceptable portion of my work is not getting the heatwork it needs. I don't load anything on the floor of the kiln, but have some bricks to help steer the heat. I've tried a couple configurations, b
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