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Found 8 results

  1. Hey everybody, I’m having trouble with my Shimpo. It was given to me by my college because it was sitting in a corner collecting dust. it runs, but it definitely needs new motor mounts and some work underneath. my main concern is that it isn’t running in the forward mode or counterclockwise, instead it’s running clockwise in reverse and forward. the parts number for the is tanac006232-rk2, but the part has been discontinued seeing as though the wheel was manfactured some time between the late 60s and mid 70s. Is there any way to resolve this issue through soldering, as a student in undergrad I don’t have the money for a new wheel, but I have two hands ready to get dirty. thank you for your time, Ry.
  2. I’m using plain terra sig made with xx saggar on Laguna 80 red clay. I bisqued and remained waxy and white. Perfect. then I added Psuedo Celedon glaze to the interior of the cylinder. Some dripped so I wiped off the whole pot with a wet clean sponge. When it dried, the white Terra Sig started turning bright yellow. Marker yellow. Won’t wash off... Any idea why this would happen?
  3. Hey Folks, I’ve had my Shimpoo VL Lite for about a year and a half now (bought it new) and the other day I noticed it was rotating and then kicking off, then rotating then kicking off over and over again with steady pressure on the foot pedal. I switched it off and back on again which seemed to solve the issue and I threw some pots with it functioning normally. Today went to throw and it did the same thing, I tried to reset it and now it won’t turn on. No light on the power switch and obviously no wheel rotation. I don’t know much about electrical stuff but I think it may have blown a fuse? Although I think that may be a symptom of a bigger issue. Anyone else had an issue like this or know how to troubleshoot? Thanks!
  4. A couple years ago, I got a Duncan EA-820 manual kiln off of Craigslist. Paid about $50 for it. My garage was already wired with a 240v outlet, so I was excited to start exploring pottery. However, when I turned the kiln on, I heard a clicking so rapid, it would more aptly be described as a chattering. After some basic troubleshooting and Googling, I found it was the relay which was clicking. Thinking, perhaps the relay was bad, I replaced it. The new one not only clicked repetitively, but promptly began to melt. Frustrated, I moved on to another project and then life got in the way. My kids have recently developed a huge interest in pottery, so I'm giving the kiln another go. I've been able to find wiring diagrams online and everything internal to the kiln appears to be wired correctly. I've got a 240v outlet on a 40amp breaker with 8 guage wire, so that seems to be in line as well. Any idea what could be causing the relay to act this way? I'm stumped and before I go down a rabbit hole, I thought I would check to see if maybe I was missing something obvious or if anyone in the forum had gone through a similar experience.
  5. Hi All, I am trying out barrel firing whilst in lockdown as I do not have access to a kiln. I'm having some problems. The first firing I used the following 60cm pit dug 3-4 inches on fine sawdust pots (some wrapped in foil, some not) Salt Seaweed Red Iron Oxide More sawdust Kindling, then smaller logs up to larger logs Paper to get the fire going. The fire burned for about 2 hours and I think put a lid on and sealed the edges. Next moring it was still quite hot when I took the lid off, so i left it to cool a while. The pots were mainly black, with some small amounts of colour (galaxy like). The Second firing, I completed in half a 55 gallon drum with a few holes from bottom to middle to create airflow. This time i used less sawdust. I also added dried bananas skins, lots more seaweed and used a little more salt, and wrapped copper wire around 1 pot. I only foil wrapped 1 pot too. I started the fire and about 1 hour after I added a little more wood as I could see the pots emerging, however they were not glowing red. As all of the wood had mainly burnt to a nice bed of embers i placed the lid on (no seal this time, some air and smoke did escape) The following morning I took the lid off and allowed it to cool a little. The pots are very contrasting . Please see the link to the images. Some colouring has worked wonderfully, however where the pots were lying in the sawdust, they are completely black. I admit it could be a cool affect, however not what i was trying to achieve. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpoXPyVDNhnb4u2N6 Barrel Firing photos Can anyone help problem solve with me? My first thoughts are use wood shaving rather that sawdust,, maybe place a grate in the barrel so the pots are not in direct contact with the sawdust. other than that, i'm really not sure???
  6. Hello everyone, this is my first time on the forum, so glad I found you all. I wonder if anyone can help me with my slipcasting problem? I have made a narrow (4cm) and tall (26cm) cylinder mould and although the first cast came out satisfactory, the next three have came out the mould with the bases ‘sucked’ in/imploded. Could it be that the opening to the mould is too narrow to drain the slip? Or could my slip be too thick? When I cut into the cast it was still filled with slip about a quarter of the way up the form. If my slip is too thick, could I add a little water to thin it down? Many thanks in advance for your advice. Laura
  7. I have an old Amaco Model 15 pottery wheel. It works fine except it makes a horrible noise similar to a coin bouncing around in a dryer. I am guessing a screw or ball bearing came loose and is being batted around as the wheel turns. Any suggestions on a fix?
  8. Hi all, Second time posting here and I’m hoping you can help! Hopefully this is the right place to be for a troubleshooting question like this. Im currently working from a recipe for Val Cushing’s Cone 6 Porcelain Slip. grolleg: 15% tile 6: 15% Epk: 3% om4: 10% flint: 25% neph sy: 30% gerstley borate: 2% —————————— Sodium silicate: .0028% calgon: .0005% When I mixed this before, as now, I subbed the deflocculants with Darvan. I mixed it successfully then, but I’m currently have difficulty. I know that darvan generally subs for sodium silicate at 2-1, so bearing that in mind, that’s where I started. I kept adding darvan in small 5g increments up to 100g in a 10000g recipe. That seems like far too much, but maybe I’m wrong? I feel like I’m on the other side of that deflocculation bell curve some how and missed my mark. Every time I come back to the studio the slip is gelled thick but never settled and never develops a skin. When I’ve added more darvan, the slip temporarily thins, but seems to rebound to being too thick the next day. Can the casting process indicate overdeflocculation? If so, in what ways? What should I be looking out for other than settling and a skin in my bucket? Can anyone offer any advice on this recipe or deflocculants? I’ve been doing some hard research and testing and can’t nail it down. My current gravity is measuring at 1.71, so I’m hesitant to add more water, since according to some other online sources I should be aiming between 1.7 and 1.8. I’m wondering if I should throw caution to the wind and say “this slip just needs more water than most”. Ive mixed this slip before with great success two years ago. I have no clue what I did right then. Dumb luck haha. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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