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Showing results for tags 'terracotta'.
Found 29 results
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From the album: SCULPTOR
I SCULPTED THIS STUDY LAST NIGHT,IT TOOK AROUND AN HOUR. BRAZIL HAS THE BIGGEST JAPANESE COLONY.THIS MORNING MY SPOUSE DID THE FLOWERS IN THE KIMONO! EVERYONE SAFE INDOORS. H 33CM x L 23cm.© Barake Sculptor
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- sculpture
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Hi, We have been doing the jigger for the first time and the pieces whatever we are making have a cracks in a same pattern in a same location, and we are using Terracotta clay to make the pieces and here I m attaching the cross sectional pieces of the molds., and in the molds I have few doubts and I would like to get clarified so that I can reduce the cracking doors one by one., Does the thick and thin portions of the molds absorbs water differently so that the pieces are cracking ? As you can see the picture of the pieces the cracks are happening in the place where the side wall is connecting with the curved edges, and the cracks are happening only with our terracotta clay and we have tried quite a lot of receipes to avoid cracks but nothing is helping out and the cracks are happening in the inside of the pieces and the outside wall is just fine. Also we have tried jiggering few pieces with our stoneware clay and we havent have any cracks in the stoneware. Does the uneven wall thickness is the reason to get the cracks ? Wi only the Terracotta is cracking and not the stoneware ? Wi the inner wall is cracking and it didnt extend to the outer wall ? Does it anything to do with the plasticity and the composition of the clay? As far as the design is concerned, we make sure theres no undercuts in the design and even the wall is not striaght and it has an angle of 10% for easy releasing., we used to have few issues with our clay body which I was working with Tom (Glazenerd) to solve the issue, but apart from that I would like to know what are the other possible reasons for the cracking.
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Hello, I have been making terracotta tiles & glazing them in the Majolica style. The tiles were bisque fired to 950 and the 3 coats of white glaze applied to tiles with decoration painted on the surface. The white glaze was a white glossy glaze not a Tin Glaze. Pin holing was apparent on surface of glaze before firing and remained after firing to 1080. Anybody got any advice please ?
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Hi all! The company we work with that formulates our slip is having difficulties achieving the necessary properties for casting. The issues are due to the fact that they are taking a plastic throwing body, and are trying to convert it into a casting slip. Due to the fact that we have little control of that formulation, I do not know the exact recipe for the slip. We are just curious how difficult it is to create a Mid-Range Red Casting Slip that is properly flocculated, and casts evenly with no issues. After firing, the color we are trying to achieve is a Red-Orange, preferably something that withstands thermal shock since we are creating drinking vessels. Does anyone have any recipes, or reasons why a high-iron casting slip acts weird? Thank you all for your time!
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I am wanting to make some essential oil diffusers, and I've noticed that most of them are made from terracotta clay so that it can absorb the oil. I was wondering if I could use a bisque fired mid-fire stoneware clay, bisque fired to a cone 04 instead, or would it be too fragile? I put a few drops of essential oil on a bisque fired piece of cone 5 b-mix and it worked beautifully, but will it break easily compared to an unglazed terracotta? If terracotta is stronger than a bisque fired b-mix, what temp would I fire it to? Thanks! -
Hi All! I am new to the Ceramic Arts Community! I made a few pieces both hand built and on the wheel with terracotta clay. I would like to glaze and fire my pieces in one fire with a clear matte finish. So my questions are... 1. Is it possible to skip the bisque fire and just glaze it and fire it once 2. What cone should I buy for my glaze? 3. Does anyone have any recommendations for clear matte glazes that would work for terracotta Thanks in advance!
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From the album: Late 2015
A wood duck mug made as a gift for a lady's husband for Xmas. I cannot believe how wonderfully bright these colors turned out! The terracotta didn't alter the underglaze at all. Soooo happy with this chubby lil' guy! Seward terracotta, Clay Art Center underglaze, Mayco underglaze, Mason Stain Fired to ^03.© Cavy Fire Studios
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- terracotta
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I was recently given a piece of a fired ceramic vessel by a friend who told me it was terracotta and asked me if I might be able to reproduce it. The main reason this vessel was made of terracotta was supposed to be its relatively high porosity, which would allow water to evaporate through the walls of the vessel. The piece of clay I was given felt a lot heavier than my garden flower pots so I decided to do a bit of research and run a few tests, in order to assess its "terracotta-ness". After some digging it seems that terracotta is hard to pin down. There appears to be a lot of qualitative discussion but little in the way of technical benchmarks that one could measure against. Any references or standards anyone knows of? I am particularly interested in where terracotta ends and stoneware begins. Many of the "terracotta" clay spec sheets I could find from vendors quote firing ranges (cone 5 and 6) which look much more like midfire stoneware than earthenware to me. Since I have always understood terracotta to be a kind of earthenware, I assumed it would melt or distort when fired to stoneware temperatures, but this did not happen. Before firing a piece, I accidentally dropped it and it splintered/cleaved into two pieces which keyed together perfectly over an area of about a square inch. I fired both pieces sitting next to each other in a strong reduction firing (mains gas) to cone 10 well down, cone 11 half down. Although the clay turned a noticeably darker chocolate brown color, it did not seem to distort or bloat much at all. In fact those two pieces still keyed together afterwards in virtually the same way they did before the firing! Essentially no change. I could only find one general reference to the porosity of terracotta (Hansen), with a suggestion that is should be approximately 10%. Does this sound right? The spec sheets I was talking about above quote porosities around 5.5% to 8.5% level, but again that is firing to midfire temps. The porosity of my shard seems to be between 5% and 6% when I tested it, which seems low to me, headed more in the direction of stoneware porosity. However 5% or 6% seems to be just right for mid-fired "terracotta." When I fired my piece to stoneware and again measured porosity, it had dropped to around 1%, which seems very close to the lower bound for a good tight stoneware body. So is terracotta simply a stoneware body fired to a midfire range? Or, or??? Thoughts?
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From the album: Late 2015
And this is why I love terracotta. Look at that delicious red. Measures 8" across, terracotta with greenware-applied underglaze, fired to ^03.- 4 comments
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Hi, I am new in this forum and I am here to learn from you guys. I started playing with terracotta clay and I love to work with it. I am trying to make a very thin (about 1/16") uniform rectangular sheets. They are about 5"x6". After I take out the air bubbles I cut with a fine steel wire the sheets and place them on a thick steel flat surface dressed with a very fine oil film. I cover them with an acrylic sheet with some weight on it to keep them flat (very important) for a few days. Then, when they are easy to handle I found first they are bent or curved up and cracked and I can't burn them that way. Please tell me what I am doing wrong if not all. Thanks.
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From the album: Late 2015
This is my best mug to date. The back has carvings, but it was impossible to photograph...well, for ME it was, haha! It probably holds 20oz, so it's a good size. I wanted to make a new mythology about how flowers grow... Terracotta with white slip and greenware-applied underglaze, fired to ^03.© Cavy Fire Studios
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Hi I am struggling to find a stoneware glaze - either a recipe or a commercial one - that would recreate the rusty terracotta seen in the picture attached. Preferably cone 6. I was wondering if anyone here could help. Many thanks. -
From the album: Early 2015
Here he is, Mr. Inlé himself. I could not, for the LIFE of me, get a good photo of him. No picture I took does this piece any justice... he's one of my favorites. Terracotta with white slip, ^03. Holds 15oz.© Sarah Alderete/Richard Adams
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From the album: Early 2015
Yep. Another kitsune. Made from seward terracotta and white slip. Fired to ^03.© Sarah Alderete
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From the album: Early 2015
My fella fancies himself a corgi fox. Micaceous redart with white slip and underglaze, fired to ^03. Holds 21oz.© Sarah Alderete/David Martinez
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Hi, I throw with stoneware but would like to give the look and feel of terracotta to the clay. I use (Draycott stoneware). Do you know any recipe, maybe applying some slip or oxide colorant before throwing? Any recommendations? Thanks! Andrea. -
From the album: MOAR STUFFS
Sgraffito is rough on me, but little gems like this one sometimes show up at my tables. Sorry for the pic quality... >.> -
From the album: MOAR STUFFS
This lunker holds 18oz. I love terracotta...we've had a rough relationship, though.© The Earthen Cavy/Sarah Alderete
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- terracotta
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Hello! So, I'm planning on making two gargoyles to protect my home. Sadly, my kiln is a tired old man and only likes to fire in earthenware. Anyone here have experience with this? I was thinking a heavily grogged terracotta that is fired to ^03 might be my best option, but I'm not sure. The statues will not be glazed, as South Dakota winters are lethal to glazed ware!!- 14 replies
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- low fire
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So... I am a FREAKING AWFUL pariah towards myself. Seriously. I constantly criticize my own work and compare it to the works of others. I'm really insecure. The wheel and I were NOT FRIENDS in the beginning. If words could kill, the wheels at Spokane Falls Community College would look like they were thrown in a car crusher from the evil that spouted from my dirty rodent mouth. I.e., lots of this: $@#&*^#@*)/!!!!!! After about five years, I can finally pull things off the wheel. They aren't necessarily FABULOUS things, but... they are functional. I was also thankfully blessed with another ability that not a lot of potters have... I can draw. And, I can draw WELL. I sadly live in an area where ALL ARTISTS ARE STARVING. I make barely enough money to scrape by, but I just cannot work a traditional job because of my spinal injury. Clay is physically taxing, but... well? So is life. I deserve to make a living wage, even if my production pottery isn't perfect. My forms are simple, because I want the main focus to be the illustration. For me, clay is just another canvas. I gotta just keep telling myself that my work isn't crap because of whatever reason... This is a piece of greenware I finished underglazing last night. I have to say that I love it... those grayish muted outlines will be glorious, inky black when fired. It's micaceous redart with white slip I'm gonna fire to ^03. I also included one of my graphite drawings, just for fun. :3 So, yeah... Anyone else have my problem? The self-criticism and insecurity part... >.<'
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From the album: The Guinea Potter's Stuff
Terracotta with white slip and underglaze. I was very proud of this one. :3© Sarah Alderete
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Okay. I have seen some dee-lish-us and positively drool-worthy stoneware and porcelain work on this forum, but I'm kinda wondering something... Where are all my terracotta-luvvin' buddies at?! I feel kinda by my lonesome here! Give a shout and post some pics of your iron red glory! Here's a mug I did with white slip and underglaze. Fired to sitter ^03 to make it a wee more vitreous. ♥ What's your favorite thing to make with terracotta?
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From the album: RV gallery
© RV Ceramics
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