Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'specific gravity'.
Found 3 results
I'm new to mixing the Laguna dry glazes and Im having a hard time finding specific instructions. I'll be pouring so I'm wondering if anybody has the specific gravity or any other way to determine the correct pouring consistency. Before anybody suggests it, I have requested this information from the manufacturer more than once. I have been referred back to the online instructions which say to add "between 8 and 11 ounces of water per pound of dry glaze". I need more specific instructions than that. The glazes I'm looking for help with are: Power Turquoise Antique Jade Clear Bright Spring Green Navy Blue Peach Blush Blackberry Wine
So I have a bucket of black slip that I made out of some clay and it is in a thick "pudding" state. I want to thin some of it for brushwork or dipping. Knowing that if I add more water to this I stand the chance of it settling out or being too thin. Is a deflocculant the answer to keeping it suspended and at the right viscosity / specific gravity for application. I want to keep some of it thick for spreading and texture though. Thoughts?
My Standard ceramic Seamist glaze was going on too thick, even though the specific gravity was measuring ok. It was not settling out in the bucket at all upon standing. On a dipped piece, the glaze would take forever to dry, and would have cracking issues. In many hours of research (and reading at times what seemed to be contradictory advice) , it sounded as though the addition of sodium silicate should thin down the glaze, which is what I thought I wanted to do. I even watched John Britt's video showing exactly what sodium silicate does to his glaze that was behaving like mine -- his thinned down nicely. Mine, on the other hand, gelled up when I added sodium silicate! How could that happen? It seems counter-intuitive, and yet that's what happened. I'm hoping to salvage this bucket of glaze -- is there any advice that will help me? Thank you!