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Found 13 results

  1. Hi, what can be causing these lines in the slip casted piece? I bought the slip already mixed, but it wasn't newly made so it was rather thick. Measured the specific gravity to 1.82 and have been adding water to make it more fluid. Made some bowls in an open one piece mold and sometimes these lines showed, sometimes not. They were always on the outside, against the mold. Now I'm trying a two piece mold and added more water because I had trouble filling the whole mold. And now these lines are more accentuated. Anyone knows what they are called and why I get them?
  2. Hi. Have just joined this forum hoping for some advice from experts. I'm a product designer and am currently undergoing a project that requires some complex ceramic pieces. I am hoping to get the ceramic pieces slipcast but I'm not even sure if it's possible? I have attached some rough renders of the design and some drawings. I plant to have the pieces produced from teracotta and stoneware slip. What do you think? Would it be possible to easily produce around 500 units of these or is it a lost cause? Any advise or just your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Hello everyone, this is my first time on the forum, so glad I found you all. I wonder if anyone can help me with my slipcasting problem? I have made a narrow (4cm) and tall (26cm) cylinder mould and although the first cast came out satisfactory, the next three have came out the mould with the bases ‘sucked’ in/imploded. Could it be that the opening to the mould is too narrow to drain the slip? Or could my slip be too thick? When I cut into the cast it was still filled with slip about a quarter of the way up the form. If my slip is too thick, could I add a little water to thin it down? Many thanks in advance for your advice. Laura
  4. Hey all, I was informed a while back that most commercial slips are deflocculated with Darvan, which can cause adverse effects (warping) on the resulting wares depending on the temperature of the room in which casting occurs. I have found in my testing that this is certainly the case, trying my best to control all other variables within reason only changing the temp of the room. Cold temps certainly seem to increase warping. What I'm wondering is if anyone has any ideas regarding what the ideal temperature would be for slipcasting with darvan in it. I am trying to minimize warping as much as possible without having to heat my workspace to unnecessarily high temps. I can't seem to find anything about this online and would appreciate any direction greatly! Cheers, Cole
  5. I recently got a job to make an object that requires a 4-piece plaster mold. The design can be conceptualized as a extruded cylinder along a curved line that abruptly ends and is closed off at one end. The other end which will be open is where I will pour the slip. For some reason I cannot figure out how the air will be displaced as I fill the mold with slip, if you see my attached photo, is it possible to cast this object as it is designed? It's ridiculous that I'm having such a tough time figuring this out. I cannot use a sprue at the end simply because the object needs to be closed on that side. I am wondering if I would be able to cast it as designed and spin the mold around during casting to release the air from the end of the cylinder? I would love to hear how any of you would tackle this. The designed object is extremely simply yet I cannot figure a way to efficiently cast it as illustrated. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Cole
  6. I am working on a project where I need to be able to mold the interior walls of a part. Similar to the double wall mug shown in the attached picture. I know this isn't recommended for slipcasting, but I can't come up with a better way to make it. I have only been able to find a few examples of this type of mold and I am trying to see if anyone has any guidelines or recommendations. I am able to make this part of the mold air release, if that is necessary. The interior walls of my part will be a little over 5 inches deep and about 5 inches in diameter, I know having a steep draft angle will help, but will something like 10 degrees be enough? Thanks for any help!
  7. Hello. I have a hige problem with bubbles in my work. It is slipcasted porcelain in a closed mould. Does anyone know what the problem could be? The air shouldn't be trapped as there are enough holes in the highest places. The bubbles are inside and on top and bottom of the casting. I would really,really appreciate any help!! Anna
  8. Hi there! So my question is very basic but I just want to know the best way to fix a plaster mold that has broken. I have used in weld to fix all my broken ceramics and it has worked beautifully, but I wasn’t sure if it would work on plaster? Another thing I was going to try was to use plaster to glue it back on, but wasn’t sure if that would work either so just wanted to ask for some advice first. Thanks! Nate
  9. Hello Everyone. One of our client asked us to make 15-20-25 liter holy water reservoir. The size of the 20 liter reservoir would be about : height 42 cm. The 25 liter a bit bigger. The form should be rotund/tubby. We usually make our products with hand building and slipcasting. But we have never tried to make such "big vases". My question would be if it would be possible to slipcast such sizes? Has anyone tried to slipcast these kind of reservoirs? These are mounted with taps at the bottom. The size of the 20 liter reservoir would be about : height 42 cm. The 25 liter a bit bigger. The form should be rotund/tubby. thanks for your advice in advance! Nandor
  10. I've been slipcasting for ages now and always just purchased clay slip in the USA. It always arrived in the right consistency in a box and never had a problem. I'm now in the UK and purchased some slip and instead of being chocolate syrup consistency, it's thick like a very thick milkshake and in plastic jugs (not full). Obviously this won't work for slipcasting. I emailed the warehouse but no reply and I'm unable to call out at the moment. What am I missing? Am I supposed to water this down? Did I order the wrong product? Any ideas? It's a clay stoneware slip from Scarva.
  11. Greetings all, I have been making mugs with tiki faces carved in them. I have made molds that have been working so I can reproduce them fairly quickly. The problem is that the molds chip very easily, leaving holes in the mold which then create unwanted that then have to be smoothed out after the pouring and drying. My question is: Is one plaster better or more durable than the others? I have been using pottery plaster #1. However, at my ceramics supply company that I order from I see that they have a number of different types of plaster: Plaster, Hydrocal White with 4500psi compression strength Ceramical Gypsum Cement with 6500psi compressions trength Puritan Pottery Plaster with 2400psi Compression Strength Pottery plaster #1 has a 2000psi compression strength. I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that the higher the compression strenght, the harder the plaster. If someone could confrim this, that would be great Second question: Who has used a "harder" plaster for mold making and what are the disadvantages or advantages you have found? Still kind of new to the mold making and production process and trying to avoid the years of trial and error, so any information would help a bunch. Thanks, Brian
  12. Lets say you have to slipcast relatively large bowls. Top diameter (widest) is about 45 cm (18.3") and hight is about the same. Final walls (after firing) can not be thicker than 6 mm and the shape is relatively complicated (not just a nice upside-down arch). Q: Is it better to use low, mid or high fire clay? Or lets ask this way: will low fire white clay warp less than a mid- or high temp white clay or half porcelain. Pieces will be glazed with what ever the clay temp requires (forget the glaze for now)
  13. Hi All, I'm trying to estimate how much slip I need to buy or make in order to create 120 pieces of a 64 oz. vessel from slip-casting. I would like to hopefully cast them 3/8" thick. Thanks for all your help! -Russell
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