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Showing results for tags 're-firing'.
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I'm unsatisfied with the colors of some low fire commercial glazes I've applied to my sculptures. I'd like to turn the intensity down a notch, say from brilliant orange to a lighter orange. I've heard that using hair spray allows the new glaze (I plan on using a transparent yellow) to adhere. And should I apply 2-3 coats? I don't want to lose the forms to these overbearing glazes. Thanks.
aarrgghhh...I typed my whole spiel and the dang thing timed out and erased it all. OK-seeking a simple starter lesson on the sequence of greenware/bisque/mature fired AND with the proper sequence of underglaze and glaze relative to the firing sequence...not clear on the fit of the cone of the body and the cone of the glaze when it comes to the variables. I have read, watched videos, read more, and read again...but something is twitching in my brain to the point that I am just not "getting it" and not retaining any simple steps of what to do when. I have zip experience with commercial glazes. I had worked with cone 10 studio-made bodies, gas-fired, and sometimes, not that often, with high-fire studio-made glazes, generally very earthy, not a color palette as with commercial products. So I have no clue about low-fire underglazes and mid-fire bodies, for example. Also wondering if I can take an unglazed piece fired to cone 9 and glaze with a cone 6 glaze and re-fire at cone 6? Please do not leave me with just "test-test-test". I absolutely cannot afford to expend my precious and limited supplies/materials experimenting just to get to a basic starting point. Thanks in advance.
I had a relay fail during a Cone 5 glaze firing. The temp reached 1800 degrees and fired 10 and a half hours. The glazes were under fired and looked chalky but they do not come off. I have replaced the bad relay and my question is: do I re-glaze before re-firing, just re-fire, or do I just throw the stuff away?