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Hi all, I want to try majolica and have read that frit should be added to oxides and stains but is that always necessary? What would be the outcome if I just mixed it with water and maybe CMC (which I already have) I'm just trying to avoid buying things that are unnecessary. Thanks in advance.

Hi! I'm trying to reformulate Arbuckle's majolica recipe for cone 05, since I can't find frit 3124 in my country. I was hoping someone could help me or give some advice on how to reformulate the recipe with frit 3134. I'm aware that the main difference is the alumina content and that I can source it from the EPK but I have no idea of how much I should add and if I should also modify the silica content... or decrease the frit. Any advice is welcome, thank's in advance!

Can Majolica be done over clear glaze? I would like to paint a background on a tile then after the bisque fire put on a clear glaze and paint a foreground picture.

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Dear esteemed Ceramic Artists, I am a novice potter with a history in painting. I live in Brazil where supplies are very expensive and I am operating on a budget. I have a friend visiting from the States and I would like her to bring me some glazes. My question is this: I will be using a low fire kiln and want to get a good range of glazes to make foodsafe pieces. I want to be able to mix colours and paint images with glaze -(it has been suggested I get majolica style glazes to be able to paint on the pieces and see the results). I have been trying to understand the terms and the huge variety of products out there and that brings me to you... for example, AMACO has a series of glazes called Teacher's Pallet which suggests that you could mix their red with yellow and achieve an orange. I want to be able to see what I am painting and I want the colour on the unfired piece to look the same when I fire it. I would appreciate any advice that would help me put together a "beginner's kit" that would allow me to mix and create a full spectrum of colours. What products or manufacturers could you suggest for me? Thank you VERY much for your time.

Posey Bacopoulos is a studio potter with over twenty years of experience. This demonstration will explore ceramic forms and surfaces of functional pots. She demonstrates altering pots made on the wheel and off, and various surface decorations including majolica, decals, and varying firing methods and temperatures. Details: Saturday January 30-31, 2016 10:00 am - 5:00 pm both days Callanwolde Fine Arts Center 980 Briarcliff Road NE Atlanta, GA 30306 Fee: $110 for both days, $60 for single day if space is available Register by calling 404-872-5338 or visit http://callanwolde.org/class-registration/ choose class POT116 Altered Form and Surface Decoration Workshop To see more information about the artist visit: http://www.poseybacopoulos.com/

hey all, I'm determined to work with cobalt and get detailed brush strokes on an opaque white background. I'm interested in Delftware, Chinese blue and white pottery, etc. I keep having issues with the glazes and I keep trying different ones and combos and I'm not getting anywhere. This technique/aesthetic seems so classic and universal that this shouldn't be so hard, and I shouldn't have to keep reinventing the wheel! Would anyone be able talk with me about this? - - - Specifically, I'm using low fire majolica process for it's simplicity (i'm using this recipe: http://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/g1916m_cone_06-04_base_glaze_226.html?logout=yes), but the cobalt which is mixed 1:1 with non-opacified base glaze, is either chalky and almost unmelted in heavy/dark areas and in other random seeming areas the cobalt seems to bleed out onto the background. I'm looking to have relatively sharp/clean lines and brushstrokes, a more even, smooth texture (not the hard buildup in the darkest areas). - - - I'm ready to head to Delft, NL and beg the folks at Royal Delft Blue to explain to me what they're doing. Someone, please! How is this done? (p.s. don't know why CAD rotated this image, but it did. Sorry)