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Found 8 results

  1. Hi - I am new to firing my own kiln. I have an old manual Cress kiln that I have used 4 times now. I put kiln wash on my shelves each time and I after the last glaze I noticed that there are little dark flecks all over the shelves. Is this glaze that needs to be ground off? Or is this just something I put more kiln wash over? I appreciate your help! Thanks - Anita
  2. I have never had so much trouble with kiln shelves. I am wondering if I have done something wrong. I had all the shelves in my set to clean and apply kiln wash. It was daunting task with the pumice stone and chisel. So I used my orbital sander and it went so fast that I am wondering why I've never seen anyone suggest it. Then I put kiln wash on all of them. I thinned the wash (as I have learned that it must be as thin as half and half milk). Brushed it on in different directions to get a complete coverage. This has worked every other time I've done it - until now. After the 3rd coat
  3. Hello Everyone, well I have one particular kiln shelf where the kiln wash will not stick to it. The recipe I use is 2 EPK, 2 Flint, 1 Alumina hydrate. On my other shelves this recipe works fine except for this one. I have to rewash it every time because it flakes off. I have scrapped off all the remaining in between each wash and placed two layers on each time. Any suggestions on what might be causing this? Thank you Gavin www.finefieldpottery.com
  4. Unfortunately, I have some bad glaze drips. I have 3 coats of kiln wash on the shelves, but when I went to pop the glaze off with a cold chisel, part of the shelf came with it. I have a couple of gouges in the shelf now and still more glaze to get off somehow. Before I continue trying to remove the drips, I would like more advice. My drips are pretty thick, so grinding will take a long time...and I actually have a lot of drips on one shelf. (I have nearly a complete ring from a really bad run. Obviously, I shouldn't have applies a particular glaze over another.) Is there a special way
  5. I'm new to firing in my own kiln, and have a brand-new Scutt. Up until now, all of my work has been fired in "community" kilns (community centers, schools, etc.), and I absolutely hate dealing with kiln flakes on my work. Now that I have my own kiln, I'm considering not even using kiln wash at all. My question is this: Do you think that kiln wash is entirely necessary? I will be controlling every aspect of what goes into my kiln, as well as firing, so I shouldn't have anything unexpected go into the kiln, and, for items I'm wary about, I'll likely fire them on stilts or on top of a "cookie
  6. I have gotten on this site several times and searched for this topic, but not found anything. I have recently become the owner of a Skutt Kilnmaster 822. I am excited to have a kiln but very green. I got a special deal in that the the kiln was ALMOST new and I got full warranty. The included shelves have kiln wash on them, but the person who used the kiln (supposedly only once) before I got it got a little glaze on one of the shelves and it looks like they possibly just put kiln wash over the glaze. I have some kiln wash that was given to me. I have a few questions regarding the shelves
  7. I have been working with clay for many years but only firing my own stuff for about 4 years. I have this recurring problem. The kiln wash flakes off after every firing - bisque or glaze. (firing bisque at 04 and glaze at 6 in my electric Vulcan kiln) I am constantly cleaning shelves and it seems to be getting worse the more I use these shelves. I have tried completely removing all the old wash and replaced it with new. I have tried simply removing the stuff that is the loosest and then washing over it and the surrounding areas. I've tried thick and thin applications. I am extremely carefu
  8. Hi, this is my first post and I'm so glad to have found this forum! I have only a test kiln, so space is limited. I'm firing unglazed cone 6 porcelain pieces, all cylindrical and of similar size (each about 100 grams fired). I want to stack them directly on the kiln floor without the wares sticking to each other. Initial experiments with imperfect forms suggest that sticking will be a problem in the next iteration, when the forms will be more perfectly cylindrical and have greater surface contact areas. I had thought to use kiln wash on the wares themselves to prevent this, hoping to
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