Search the Community

Is there a glaze that will allow for a gradual/subtle/general color change naturally over time? Ie. If the glaze was white/off-white but over the years of use gains more coloring due to wear?

L Plater! I’ve bisque fired stoneware pre-glazed with 06-6 cone underglaze. I’m going to glaze with cone 9 glaze and fire at cone 9. Have i stuffed up using a low cone underglaze or is it ok?

Hi there! i found this beautiful glaze and I’m trying to figure out if I can use it for cone 6. It says it can be used for cone06 and cone 6. I’ve also seen other glazes that state they can go from cone06-cone10. Is that a thing? How do they work? I’m aware the results are different (the glaze becomes pale or bright or new colors pop and it may cause surface problems). Just wondering if I can fire this guy at cone5/6: https://seattlepotterysupply.com/products/speckled-pink-a-boo-1?variant=34198788538507 thanks

Hi! I did my first experiment with glazing under my platter. I found an article that said to use a 3 inch stilt for a larger piece. Unfortunately it didn’t say to use at least two and place them on the ends of the piece. It warped of course at cone 5, I’m not sure that it still wouldn’t have warped. I just won’t glaze underneath anymore but I’m wondering if there’s anyway to save the platter now that both sides are glazed. Is there anyway to flatten it out without it sticking to kiln? Thanks -Newbie

Hi all! I’m new here I’ve thrown lots of ceramics over the years, as a student in a classroom setting (so, lots of ceramics classes where someone else loaded & fired the kiln, haha), but am brand new to firing my own kiln. I recently set up a studio off the side of our garage, and acquired a used Duncan EA 1020-2 manual kiln. I bisque fired about 25 pieces to cone 06 with no obvious issues; firing took about 10.5 hours with top peep hole open (I don’t have a vent, so needed oxygen to enter the kiln in some way - figured leaving a peep hole open was the best option?). I bought several pints of Amaco Potters Choice glazes (blue rutile, oatmeal, chun plum, lustrous jade, and 3 or 4 others), and did lots of reading/searching on these forums and other sites, and gleaned that in order to get bright colors with these glazes, you must brush on many layers, quite thick; so, that’s what I did. Glaze fired to cone 6, with a small cone in the kiln sitter. I did not have witness cones (I very, very much regretted this almost instantly, but as I’m brand new to firing, I wasn’t aware I needed them when I was ordering all my initial supplies, so I had none), but around hour 12 I began to worry that something...wasn’t right, because of the time elapsed. The cone 6 glaze fire took 16 hours before the kiln sitter triggered and only reached temp when I finally plugged the top peep hole. I let it cool overnight and opened this morning, to...major disappointment. Very dark glazes, browns and dark greys, some purples but those were all very dark and almost matte looking. Tons and tons of pinholes, as well, which are new to me - I’ve read that many things can cause them? Without guidance cones I know there isn’t much to go by, but I suspect the kiln overfired, due to the very dark, less than stellar glaze results and the time it took to finish - could overfiring lead to these results? Or does anyone have any insights, helpful recommendations, encouragement? I know it happens, especially in the beginning, but I’m still kind of bummed. Thank you all for your help! -Kati

Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.