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Showing results for tags 'glass melting'.
I'm starting a new thread on firing glass on clay. This subject has been brought up on this thread and I thought if we are going to discuss this further we could do so here to avoid digressing too far from the OP's original question in the above thread. I'm going to start this thread off with this post from @Chilly : "It terrifies me that you sell stuff that you know splinters. I really don't understand using glass with clay. To me it's like putting diesel in your petrol-engine car, just because they both came from crude oil."
Hey all, using white cone 6 stoneware- B-mix 5 WC-401 I have been making some little 8-inch coral wall hangings- I throw bowled plates and fill it in with coral looking bits. They dry slowly and they usually make it through the glaze firing fine but then I like to add some glass (I bought some stained glass and mosaic glass pebbles- photos attached (the ones I bought are different colors but same type)) and put them in for another glaze firing and then they often crack at this step. I try not to use too much glass since I know that can cause cracking and often they just crack a little bit in the back but sometimes it goes all the way through (photos attached since Im not good at describing this) I have 2 questions: 1- after they're bisqued, can I put the glaze on them, let it dry and then put the glass on top so that I just do one glaze firing or is there any cost/benefit to doing it separately? - I did it separately this time because I decided I didnt like how they looked just with the glaze. 2- I've heard you can put sand underneath pieces to be like a shrink slab but I fire in a community kiln and they dont seem to be open to that; would making little clay coils or rolling out cylindrical strips and putting them under the corals when I do the glass melting help to prevent cracking? -I figured they were cracking because of friction getting caught on the kiln shelf any other thoughts/suggestions on how to do these? I just made a few more and trimmed the back of the bowled plates to add a little foot thinking that might help since there will be less surface area touching the kiln shelf but they are still drying thanks!