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Found 13 results

  1. Hi all! I just finished converting an old electric kiln to gas. The firing will be totally manual, no kiln sitter involved. Having never fired a gas kiln, I know my learning curve will be steep! But I need a few pointers to get started. I want to start out with a glaze firing, ^5, mainly because I don’t have any greenware to bisque right now. I have a few “sacrificial pieces” that I am willing to use to start the learning process. I have a pyrometer and witness cones ready to go. So, my main question has to do with ramping at this point. How fast do I want the kiln to increase in
  2. Since day 1 I wanted to do wood firing. I started with an electric kiln and although it is possible to do interesting things I'm still focused on ultimately doing Anagama. I cant truly test Cone 10 glazes in my electric and want to get as close to possible to that environment, which means a way to do reduction, neutral and oxidation. So I got a broke down Duncan kiln donated to me and the burner came in today so I'm super excited!!! Stripping it down tonight and getting the elements out then will figure out how to cut the burner port and the top opening. Then I have to find a 40 - 50 gallon ta
  3. Hi, I currently do smoke firings in an oil drum, fired with wood, but I would like more control over the temperatures reached. I’m thinking of building raku kiln from another drum and trying saggar firings. One question I have is about regulators. I had always intended to use a high pressure regulator but have found it difficult to source an inexpensive change over regulator (I want to be able to connect two gas bottles up) for high pressure systems. There seem to be plenty of change over regulators for low pressure systems, so I was wondering if it would ma
  4. I know this kind of thread has been done many times. I've read lots of them, watched lots of YouTube videos and clayart topics. From this I have learnt there are many problems with this kind of conversion. I have never fired with gas, but I love the look of reduction glazes and my old electric kiln was nearly dead anyway. Following a recent house move I faced the prospect of a costly electrician bill to install it in our outbuilding, and decided that converting it to gas would be comparable in cost. Initially I was going to do an updraft kiln. After reading many uneven firing woes I
  5. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy wh
  6. Hi everyone, I recently fired a gas kiln but there was very poor reduction and my pieces (with a celadon glaze) came out oxidised. Would it work to refire these same pieces in a fully-functioning gas kiln? Is there any reason the might not reduce as they have already been high-fired? Thank you!
  7. I’m a recent grad working on setting up a studio space on a really tight budget, and my current plan is to convert an old electric kiln I got for free into a propane-fueled gas kiln. My original plan was to fire it with a pair of propane weed burners, (like simon leach’s conversion) but it’s occurred to me that could be a safety issue during an overnight preheat. I’m planning to once-fire most of my work to cone 10 reduction, and I’m used to the university gas kilns, which use Venturi burners with pilot lights and safety shut offs. My usual firing schedule is an 8-10 hour overnigh
  8. Hey y'all -- So I have an old Jenken sitter kiln I got from a retired potter (along with my other equipment). Earlier this year I converted to fire with gas (downdraft), using a homemade cast-iron burner with a squirrel-cage fan. I don't have any issues getting it up to temperature, but I have noticed that it is significantly cooler closer to the bottom of the kiln, and it feels like an unacceptable portion of my work is not getting the heatwork it needs. I don't load anything on the floor of the kiln, but have some bricks to help steer the heat. I've tried a couple configurations, b
  9. JamesP

    Firing

    From the album: Gas Kiln

    Turning on the gas
  10. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  11. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  12. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  13. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
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