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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all, I want to try majolica and have read that frit should be added to oxides and stains but is that always necessary? What would be the outcome if I just mixed it with water and maybe CMC (which I already have) I'm just trying to avoid buying things that are unnecessary. Thanks in advance.
  2. Stumped...well sorta of stumped. Cone 04 porcelain frit-ware has some chemistry, that I find challenging. I recall Min talking about having to heavily wedge a Plainsman body that had V-gum T plasticizer. The most colloidal plasticizer used in the pottery biz, to impart plasticity into an otherwise non-plastic formula. Works well for plasticity, but it holds water much differently than more common materials like bentonites or ball clays. The exterior of the ball may be correct, but as you wedge more moisture is pushed to the surface. After wedging numerous times: the problem persisted.
  3. i all, I've recently set up a raku kiln and have been experimenting with different clay bodies. Someone requested on this forum that I try Laguna's B-mix with grog. I was looking for a nice creamy white clay to glaze with a clear.. I like the clay, but have had a few - not all - pieces came out with a few hairline cracks that were happening during reduction. I've attached a few photos. This past weekend, I fired around 10 different pieces with varying thicknesses, and had only about 3 cracks, so I'm not thinking it's the clay. Could I be doing something wrong in the reduction? The
  4. From the album: 2016

    After reading CAD article about making your own transfers, I tried this using a rubber stamp with stain & frit 50:50 mix. Stamped on to tissue paper, applied to leather hard clay. Bisqued to 1000oC. Dipped in transparent glaze & fired to 1100oC in an electric kiln.
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