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Found 15 results

  1. Hi, new to this forum because of some paragon kiln mysteries. Bought a second-hand paragon a66-be kiln a few years ago, in an almost unused impeccable state. Now one of the elements burned out so I ordered two new ones to replace the two existing. I ordered them directly from the factory saving me some hustle and problems (I thought). After receiving the elements from paragon ; made for this model number I figured out they are one loop (around the oven) too long (around 3 feet). Both of them ! I now see that the models sold in the United States had 3 grooves per brick for looping the element, mine just has 2. It was sold on the French market. It definitely looks like the inside of the xpress 66. Also I see that my two elements are wired in series and not parallel and are regulated by a stepless switch instead of a 4 way rotary (off-low-med-high). Does anyone know if there is a method of reconfiguration possible to make the kiln work again? Without changing a whole lot of things? For now paragon is not yet answering to my mails. I’ve included some pictures to illustrate. Thanks in advance, Tommy.
  2. Hi, I am not an artist, but am helping my daughter set up a new studio in her garage. Or a garagio as I believe it is sometimes called here. She has worked in a community studio for some time, and now wants more control over her work. The plan is to slowly add to the studio and eventually transition to it over the next year or two. She recently bought a used Skutt KM 1027 kiln which we wired up while I was visiting. This kiln has built in diagnostics, so I was wondering if regularly testing the element resistance is really needed most of the time. From the diagnostics screen you can have the kiln measure full load amps, voltage under load and unloaded, and the current through each set of element pairs individually. It does not seem to have an automatic resistance measurement, but these built in readings seem adequate for most day to day monitoring. I checked the service manual, and it states that an increase in resistance of more than 1.5 ohms indicated elements that need to be replaced. For the elements in this kiln, that is about a 5 or 6 percent increase. Using ohms law, this would mean that a decrease in current of 5 or 6 percent would also indicate worn elements. If you have a kiln with built in diagnostics, shouldn't it be fine to just monitor any drop in current until you see a significant change? My daughter certainly has a good quality multi-meter, and regularly checks the elements in her smaller Paragon kiln using it. But the wiring on the small kiln is less complicated and easier to access. Unplugging the larger kiln and opening up the access panel to individually check the element resistance seems like overkill unless there is an indication of issue. Particularly given the built in diagnostics. What do you folks do? Now I know that if a problem occurs, nothing beats directly reading the element resistance, because you might have other problems. A relay might be going bad, or there could be a poor connection somewhere. There might also have been a drop in line voltage under load, although the kiln does measure that as well. But on a regular basis, it would seem fine to trust the current readings, and not break out the multi-meter until there was more of an indication that something was going wrong. How often do you folks break out the ohm meter and test elements at the source? And do you open up the access panel and test the resistance at the connectors as Skutt shows in their manual, or just probe the elements inside the kiln? Also, would it depend on weather the kiln has any built in diagnostics? I will probably call Skutt to get the official story, but sometimes the folks using the equipment on a day to day basis have more practical advice. By the way, the kiln is supposed to be capable of reaching cone 10, but she only plans to fire to cone 6. Does that have any effect of how carefully she needs to adhere to the recommended replacement resistance? The elements right now are showing less than 1 ohm of resistance change,and are not warped or sagging. But I was wondering in the future what advice to give her.
  3. I was wondering if someone could cast an experienced eye over these elements for me and tell me if you think they need replacing? I suspect they do as my kiln struggles over 1100 degC. Not really sure what to look for in a knackered element though. Is it sensible to replace all elements at once? Or is it possible that some wear out faster than others and you don't always need to replace them all in one go? Thanks Luke
  4. I have an Amaco top load kiln. It is 21 years old and gets light use-8-10 05 firings per year. Elements seem to be burning out more frequently the past few years. Is that typical of an older kiln or could there be a repairable issue causing it? The cost is adding up, and I wonder if it is time to replace.
  5. GOOD KILN MFG INC Will my fired pieces be okay, strength wise, if all of my elements aren't reaching full temp? (The kiln shuts off and the 06 cone fires perfectly.) I want to run at least one more load before I rip out and replace the erroneous elements. Thank you, -NewElementsOnTheWay
  6. Hello everyone! I bought a small top loader kiln that runs of mains (13amp) and I now need to change the elements. I need to know the model and make in order to get the right wattage/amperage elements. If anyone can tell from the photo below please gimme a shout! It has a dawson LT-3 sitter if that's helpful. Can get more photos if helpful! Thanks in advance
  7. Hi all, I think I have discovered an issue with my kiln. I am bisque firing tonight and I noticed when all switches are turned to low, the top light stay on. It does not blink on and off indicating the intermittent flow of electricity to the elements. So I turned the top element off because the temp began to rise way too quickly. Firstly, can I fire the kiln with just the bottom three elements?Second I will definitely need to hire a kiln repair gut to fix this right? Thank! -Mary
  8. Hi Everyone, Looks like my old kiln-sitter Duncan DK1020-2 is in need of new elements (about 90% sure of this) and I am eager to replace them since, of course, I am on a deadline. I placed a call to Paragon already with a couple questions but it's the end of the day and i doubt I'll hear back til tomorrow...or later. I admit it's my first foray into kiln repair, but I am pretty handy and my boyfriend is bringing his multimeter over so i have faith between the two of us we can handle this; especially given all the videos and the manual information at hand. Here's my question: As I am going to be replacing all of the elements at this point are there other parts it is advisable to test and/or replace as well since I'm doing this? All the parts appear to be the original ones (from the 1970s/early 80s, yikes). Wondering if i should also plan to replace the power relays, infinite switch or anything else. Many thanks.
  9. Being a less-than-tall person, I bought an L&L 18" deep kiln - I couldn't reach the bottom of the 27â€ers. Kiln works great, tho I have to add degrees to the cone offset for 04 bisquing, and remove some from cone 6, ( according to my witness cones). Actually right now I’m using the cone 5 setting and that seems to get my 6 cone to the right spot. My e28s has 4 elements and 2 thermocouples, and this creates some challenges. I get even responses from my witness cones only if I fire with only 2 shelves. With 3 shelves in, the witness cones vary widely. I’ve tried every variation on shelf placement I can think of, including staggering and using 2 1/2 half shelves. The manufacturer says that you need 2 elements and 1 thermocouple per shelf, and I’m pretty sure I also read that the shelves should clear the elements. With my kiln , that means you can only have 2 shelves in, and when I follow these guidelines the kiln gods do favor me with matching witness cones. This has all turned out not to be a big problem for me anyway, because I haven’t had as much time as I’d hoped I would to be making stuff. Also running the kiln seems to cost me only about $10 a month for 3-4 firings. I expected the cost to be much higher. I'm making less at one time, but also getting more instant gratification, (instant being a relative term when applied to a slowly cooling kiln). Should I be less concerned about matching cones? I assume it's a matter of degree. It can be more than 1 cone. Also, I have been "lidding" the load with the 2 unused half shelves because I feel I should have them in there to increase the thermal mass, which is already 1/3 less than what the kiln could hold. Any thoughts on that? Thank you in advance for your advice and experience Irene in NJ
  10. I am noticing a slight increase in time to run a cone 6 glaze firing and my witness cones are starting show slightly less of a bend than previously so I think it's time to start planning an element replacement. I am at 180 total firings, 87 cone 6 slow glaze, 72 cone 04 slow Bisque and 21 cone 05 slow glaze transfer firings. I've never done this before sooooo how hard is it? Do I need to replace anything else while I am doing it? Like relays, pins, high temp connectors, etc? I have an Olympic Freedom 1823HE. I have found a repair man that will come down from the John C Campbell school and do it but I have no idea what price range I am looking at for the job. I'd also really REALLY like to learn to do it myself BUT don't want to mess up my kiln. I think knowing how to replace the elements in my kiln is vital to my growth as a potter, I like to understand how things work and go together, etc. Sooooo honestly speaking how hard is it and are there any tricks I should know going in? OR Should I just bite the bullet and let someone else do it for me? Thank you all once again for your help. T
  11. My L & L has been firing very slowly and stopping with an error message when glazing. I checked all my elements and they were glowing an dseemed fine. I changed all of my thermocouples because i bought the kiln used and they seemed a little old. I loaded the kiln and started firing and noticed that i have Two elements in a row rhat are hot firing at all. Im new to all this and my question is, could i have pulled a wire loose in my element wiring while i had the box open fixing thermocouples?
  12. Hi all I have recently purchased a Cone Art Model 1822 Kiln (manual with a cone sitter). I'm very excited to get going, but alas - I can't get the thing working! I followed the electrical supply through the system with a voltmeter; checking the kiln sitter plunger switch; the timer switch; and the infinite switch - all in both on and off positions. Everything looked in order ie. voltage detected when on, none detected when off. I also checked for power running into the elements - it's there, yet no heat is being generated!!!! (after 11/2 hours) (I don't understand!!!) The red operation lights, connected through the infinity switch, show power going to them, and also do not turn on (I figured this was because of a burnt out bulbs, but now, ???). I had to change the elements (came with the unit) because there was a break in one of them - I took pictures and feel confident I rewired properly (took pictures and understood it - plus - there's power going to it...) I'm so confused as to why this isn't working and would appreciate any feedback anyone can give me. Thanks! gay
  13. I thought my diy elements would simply lay in the groove and behave. Dream on! I guess I'll have to pin them in place. Well Skutt does it, so why not. The original elements in my Paragon snf24 didn't have pins when I removed them. I don't feel great about having them now. But it is what it is; it's never what it ain't! Ok to use element wire of same gauge to make pins or, in this case, staples? Huh? Huh? Are there any rules regarding pinning or stapling? I like the staple idea, 'cause two legs seem better than one. ja
  14. Hi all, I just finished stripping the old elements out of two kilns. One kiln is getting new elements, the other is going to get a gas burner. Anyway, what do y'all do with your old kiln elements. I've thought of incorporating them into a multimedia object, or making springy yard art, pitching them,etc. What are your thoughts - think of this as a fun exercise Lee
  15. Hey folks ! Hoping someone can help me out! I'm replacing an element in my kiln for the first time. Everything was going smoothly - I removed the old element and put in the new one but i can't for the life of me loosen the barrel connector (I think that's what it's called) from the electrical wire running from the switch. I need to loosen it to remove the old element wire still inside and to make the electric wire make contact with the element. I'll take a pic and attach it below. It's a barrel connector with a screw in it to keep it tight and I can't loosen it at all!! Is it safe to use a lubricant of some sort on the connector? If so, which brand? My supplier is already closed for the weekend so I can't go to them for help. I've gashed up my fingers from the screw driver and pliers slipping lol. Any help would be super appreciated. I have a massive show coming up and I'm falling behind. Thanks so much!!!
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