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I've seen an ultra suede dry matte glaze used on earthenware. Is it a custome recipe? Done in colors too. Is it possible to get the same effect using other clays? See attached image. Thanks in advance for any information on the topic. MJ
Thought I'd share a success story here with my Terra Sigillata recipe. Everything I've ever read says that you need sodium silicate or sodium carbonate but it seems that Tetrasodium EDTA - aka Jet-Dry works as well. 3 parts Clay 1 part water 2 teastpoons Jet-Dry I used a small bottle to mix up a test batch as I wasnt sure that it would work at all. Previous attempts at using Calgon were unsuccessful as I read that the old recipe containing phosphates was changed. So, if you dont have sodium silicate or sodium phosphate handy you can give this a try and see if it works for you. Full post here - https://dreamsofearth.wordpress.com/2015/05/24/terra-sigillata/
Hello! I'm looking for some advice on using pre-mixed dry glazes. I have always been part of a larger studio and didn't have to worry about mixing up glazes - now I live in a smaller northern community and have just started a small studio with a few others but none of us have ever mixed glazes before. We have an electric kiln. After searching around for products online I was thinking that buying a larger quantity of pre-mixed dry glaze for Cone 6 (like Laguna ms series or spectrum 1100 series, 50/10 lb) might be a good compromise for us newbies between buying pints of wet glazes and buying all the different ingredients to mix by recipe. If anyone has any advice for us on the best way to start out with glazing or how pre-mixed dry glazes work or what products work best we would love to hear it! Cost of shipping is definitely an issue for us as well as the possibility of freezing during shipping (it is -20C where we live in the Yukon this morning). Thanks so much!
Hi everyone! I'm new here, and new to ceramics. I will be hand building miniatures. My main question right now is, how can you tell when the clay pieces are dry? I've searched online, and the only answer I have found is that they are dry when they no longer feel cold when touched against your face/wrist. I have created some pieces to test my clay samples (various types of stoneware and porcelain clay). After 3 weeks, they still feel fairly cold on my face. They are about 1/2" thick, and I realize that drying will take longer with this thickness. But, it seems like they have felt the same (against my face/wrist) for the last 3 days now, and I'm wondering if dry clay still feels slightly cold? Is there another method to check when they are dry enough for the bisque firing? Thanks for any advice! Melissa