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Found 6 results

  1. Hello I used a series of 4 glazes layered on a recent set of plates. Every single one of them has crawled, especially on one particular colour which I’m guessing is the thicker application when layered? My question is, can I reglaze and refire them, perhaps to a lower temperature? They’ve been fired to cone 7 (electric), and it’s a Valentine’s Delta stoneware. I’ve refired plates before and they’ve broken right down the centre. I’ve seen people on here say they’ve had success with refiring and wondering if there’s a recommended technique. Attached a couple of photos of the crawling. Hoping someone with more experience than I can provide a helpful suggestion. Other than telling me not to layer the glazes! Funnily enough I’ve used this glazing technique plenty of times on bowls without any problem. Thanks in advance.
  2. I am having trouble with Amaco's Potters Choice glazes crawling when layered. I have used them for years and have never had a problem until about a year ago. The issue is specifically when layering the potters choice glazes in dipping form. The Brushing bottles are fine, I have not problem with them. At first I thought it was my students application or the thickness of the glaze. But after endless test I can not figure out what is going on. I called Amaco and they said they were aware of the problem and were working on it. But the only suggestions they had were to stop layering them, only buy brushing bottles and using distilled water. I need these glazes to work in dipping form for my students. I have used distilled water, it does not make a difference. I have thinned down the glaze, doesn't help. I have tried applying the glaze with time drying in between each layer and also dipping them one right after the other, doesn't help. Does anyone have suggestions? Thank you.
  3. I am perplexed why I get this crawling in about 1 in 10 mugs. The mugs are poured in an old hand built mold, from large batches of slip. At leatherhard cleaned up and sanded when dry. I rinse them all well with a clean sponge after bisquing and allow to dry 24 hours before glazing. The glaze is a large batch I’ve been using for a year. I’ve never seen this on anything but these mugs.
  4. Hi all, I've been starting to have a crawling issue with 3 of my last firings and can't figure out what's happening here (see photo). All color underneath the clear ^5 glaze is Amaco Velvet. I give 3 good layers for the underglaze every time, and have not changed the technique for painting. Glaze and clay body also remain the same. Upon suggestion from a friend I tried doing the firing SLOW, but that didn't help either. Couple of questions for you Amaco veterans: 1. Have you had issue with the crawling happening over Velvet? How did you resolve it? 2. Even in small coverage areas, the glaze is up higher where there is no underglaze, and lower where there is. A bit lost on what to do about this new strange issues.
  5. Hi Folks, I have started to use cone 10 porcelain from sheffield pottery. Since it is full of impurities, I decided to fire my porcelain pots in oxidation. My pieces are pretty thin and I get crawling just along the rim of each piece....like clockwork. Crawling is also a problem along sharp ridges where curves of the form jut out and then recede. Does anyone use Sheffield's porcelain cone 10? If so, would you be kind enough to share a clear porcelain glaze recipe that does not crawl, with me? FYI, I wear gloves to handle the ware, glaze immediately after bisque so dust and grease are not a problem. I have added 1.5% bentonite to my glaze to add some small platelets to my glaze mix which has made little to no difference. The recipe which I use (from Mary Risley (RIP) at Wesleyan University 40 years ago....): Custer spar 33 Flint (silcosil) 32 Whiting (snocal 40) 20 Grolleg Kaolin 15 Help?!!! Does anyone have any recommendations (bedsides switching to EPK in the glaze. I am in the process of testing it)? Sharon Nahill Oak Hill Pottery Meredith, NH
  6. Hello, I am new to this forum and new to mixing and firing my own cone 6 glazes in an electric kiln. Boy, what a learning curve! I have much to learn. I'm grateful to you guys for posting so much useful information here:) I just fired a small kiln load of pcs of different stoneware clay bodies with Turner White recipe that I found on Ceramic Arts Daily. I thought it would be a stable fool-proof glaze so I regrettably did not test. My kiln has been overfiring, so this firing I made the adjustment of firing to cone 5, holding for 15 minutes. My pyrometer cone reached cone 6, so temperature is good...but....maybe some improvements still need to be made. The turner white came out different on different clay bodies. On Venus White clay (which has some grog) and B-mix clay, it came out an undesirable chalky, super matt. The surface almost feels like clay body. There was also some crawling happening on the Venus White clay body pcs. On red b-mix and electric brown, the finish was a tiny bit more satin matt...but not much more. I also noticed a lot of crackling, popping well after the pieces had cooled down. On some of the Venus White pcs, lots of crazing where I had dripped Leach Blue over the Turner White. What do you think the problem could be? Could some of this have to do with kiln temperature and/or cool down? And could I save these pieces by coating with clear glaze and re-firing? Or mix a new batch of turner white glaze with additional chemical to increase sheen?
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