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Found 10 results

  1. I have been trying to be scientific about arranging my firing schedule in a small electric kiln with a controller. I understand the concept of heatwork and use cones on all shelves in my kiln to monitor results. I soak at top temperature and fire down so want to compensate for the additional heatwork these procedures involve when I set the top temperature on my controller. I understood that this could be done by looking at the area under a graph of total heatwork, but having compared theoretical models using the Orton cone firing tables, if this is indeed the case, I must be missing something. The following example uses °C, as I am in the UK, and I am referring to the Orton theoretical temperature values. 1. In the Orton table Cone 7 is reached at 1237°C when firing at 60°C /hr, if this is a straight ramp, this would take 20.3hrs, assuming a starting room temp of 17°C ((1237-17)/60). If the x-axis is time and the y-axis temperature, the area under the graph is a triangle and can be calculated as (1237 x 20.3)/2 = 12,555 2. When firing at 150°C/hr cone 7 is reached at 1255°C. As a straight ramp this would take 8.25hrs ((1255-17)/150). Then the area under the graph is also a triangle calculated as (1255x8.25)/2 = 5179 SO, these areas which are supposed to represent total heatwork to achieve cone 7 are not the same. I am clearly missing something here. Can anyone help please. Thank you
  2. So, ive created this account specifically for help! ive been given two very old electric kilns, seems to be from the 70s perhaps? anyways, one is an American Beauty electric kiln model number: AB18 this thing has four switches and a kiln sitter. seems to be in relatively good condition from what my ceramic instructor had said. Problem is ive never fired a kiln and there is almost zero information on the kilns manual or even the company that produced the kiln. I find that almost unbelievable seeing as I live 5 miles from the city the kiln company was located. If anyone has any further information of this specific model of kiln that would help immensely !! Next, I have a Cress electric kiln model number : B-23-HB ive found an online manual for the company kilns but they're all for up-to-date kilns.. This model has a upper and lower nobs for high and low firing. anyone have any ideas because im totally fresh to anything in regards to firing kilns. is it worth keeping or should I try to get a more updated kiln? Help! thank you in advance!
  3. Hey all! First time posting here. I'm new to firing, and i've been having some difficulties getting my kiln to fire to cone 6 properly. Here's my problem: When I check the cones at peak temperature (2180 in my case), the cones are not bent properly yet. Last night I just let it cycle down anyway. However, when I opened my kiln at the end of firing, the cones were overfired (at least at the top of my kiln). I've been slow cooling, so is it possible that the heatwork as the kiln fires down is actually causing the cones to bend further even at lower temps? Firing Schedule: 220/60 - 100 degrees/hr 2000/0 - 350 degrees/hr 2180/15 - 108 degrees/hr (still not getting my kiln up to 2192, but that might just be a problem with the PID or thermocouple) 1400/0 - 125 degrees/hr OFF I have no idea how to tell if my pieces are over/underfired because of this. Do I base it on what the cones were doing at peak temp, or what they looked like at the end of firing??
  4. Hi wonderful crafters! I've recently acquired a kiln and am ready to jump into ceramics! Though I've done loads of research, I'm still a bit confused about firing times and this whole cones system! I'm using Stoneware Crank clay, and pretty sure I need to fire on a 6 cone. Silly question, does this just mean the temperature? (2269f?) or does it also mean I need to buy one of those actual cones? (Attached image) I'm quite confused by all this information, especially because I've read conflicting things. Thank you for your help! x
  5. I have cone 6 clay and cone 6 glazes, but my digital kiln firings recently began ending with FTL (fired too long, meaning it never reached temperature and shut off after stalling for 3 hours). The bowls look pretty good, although the colors aren't maturing like they used to. I put cones 5, 6, and 7 in to see what's really going on and none of them bent in the slightest. Assuming the bowls only fired to a cone 4 or below, are they still okay to use? What would be the main problem with an under-fired bowl? The last recorded temperature on the computer was 2050, so it may have only gotten to Cone 1! I'm sure my kiln needs repaired but I wondered if the bowls I have will need to be fire again, or if I can just use them as is. Thanks!
  6. Just wondering I have been bisquing the cone packs for my glaze firings, basically because early on I had a few blow in the glaze firing. I realise that the cones may be altered by the heat work done..are they? Or is this step not needed if the clay is completely dry, I fire 150 C/hr after 200 in a glaze firing.
  7. Hey guys what ceramic supply websites do you prefer? Which have the most reasonable prices and what were your experiences with them?
  8. I just graduated from high school where my teacher would do everything with the kiln. I just got a kiln and am going to start firing my own things. It is a cress cone sitter. I have a bunch of low fire clays around but i plan on getting some potters choice glazes. will the cone 5-6 glaze would work with the low fire clays? what clays would be good for throwing and firing with the potters choice? can i bisque high fire clays at around 04? Im a bit new to firing my own pieces so sorry about all the questions.
  9. Hi all, I haven't been able to find any firing instructions for my old AIM kiln. Even the folks at AIM said they didn't have any . So I'm left with power dials that go from 1 to 10, and no idea how that translates into temperature. I'd like to be able to test this kiln without spending money on a temperature gauge/controller only to discover that what I really need is a new kiln. I have a bunch of different low fire cones, and was thinking of using them as a visual guide for reaching temperatures, but the more I think about it the more I imagine endless permutations of dial-adjustments matched to cone-slumps and time-monitoring. Am I crazy to think I could do a ramp/soak firing without having even a temperature gauge? Thanks, Matt
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