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I just bought a collection of ceramic pieces, green ware, bisque, partly painted or choked, from a former ceramic painting teacher. Most of the pieces are from the late 80's to early 2000's. I'm trying to find out how to fix some of these pieces, such as broken antlers or wings, legs or feet or arms or hands. Some of these pieces have been started painting or choked, some are green and some have been fired ready for painting or choking. How do I fix these pieces if I'm going to glaze them then fire them again? How do I fix the green ware so I can fire it? What is the best way to fix the pieces that I'm not going to refire?

I saw someone say that washing bisqueware before glazing can prevent dripping in the glaze fire because it makes it less absorbent when dipping in the glaze? Does anyone else do this? I'm worried it will make the glaze crawl or something weird.. Thoughts?

Eleanor Anderson - July 26-30, 2019 - SKETCHING YOUR WAY INTO CLAY - $614.00 $614.00 Workshop Description: In this workshop, you will learn how to take pottery to the next level by focusing on surface design. We will learn how to carve, etch and stencil patterns, images and textures onto your pottery. Participants will learn Sgraffito, Mishima (Japanese Underglaze/ Slip Inlay) Stamping, monoprinting as well as water etching. We will do daily drawing exercises to come up with solutions for original and personal surfaces. This workshop is designed for students who have some experience with clay. Students are encouraged to prioritize process and risk taking, and will take home bisque wear designed to be fired at cone 6 oxidation. REGISTER HERE ALL LEVELS some clay experience handy Session runs January 26 - 30, 2019 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. daily, open studio hours on select days. Fee includes tuition + materials fee + studio fee. Students may be asked to bring some additional items. Materials include 25 lbs. of clay and 2 firings. Additional clay will be available for purchase. Artist Bio: Eleanor Anderson graduated from Colorado College, where she studied printmaking and fibers. She works across a broad range of media including ceramics, textiles, prints and collage. She has been a resident at the Textile Arts Center is Brooklyn, NY and the 9th Semester Fellow in Design at Colorado College. Most recently she finished a two year Core Fellowship at Penland School of Crafts in Penland, North Carolina. She sends work into the world with the optimistic intentions of enlivening and enriching objects and spaces for the user or the viewer. www.eleanoranderson.com www.eleanoranderson.com

Good Morning: I want to try the bubble glazing with my high school students. I used the google machine to try and find a good recipe but everyone has something different. I tried a couple and every none of them worked amazingly well. I found the soapy liquid tends to run down the side of the pot and only leave a few bubbled spots. I tried using less water, that worked a little bit better. I also found I had to get the bubbles started and scrap the first layer off because these bubbles were to small. Does anyone have a recipe that they have had good success with and do you have any tips for success. I have watched every video on youtube so I am looking for additional information. I have attached my experiments below. Thank you.

HI all, I've referred to this forum many times in the last few months, so thank you all for sharing your knowledge with the world. I just touched clay for the first time in August. After a short class, I fell in love with slab building and geometric shapes. In my class, we only used cone 10 clay, SOOO, when I left class and started playing with clay at home, I got Cone 10 clay. Now that I have LOTS of pieces to fire, I'm calling around to studios and art centers to find they they all fire greenware to bisqueware at 04. Can my Laguna cone 10 clay greenware be used for potted plants, vases and general art if it's just fired to 04? I would glaze fire to cone 6. Any help is appreciated and sorry for this and many future dumb questions. Thanks

Hello! I had a couple of pieces that, freakishly, dried just fine...evenly...even thickness...all around good slab pieces... cracked in the kiln! I fired at the correct temp and somehow this happened. I've read about magic mud...and I was under the impression that it could be used on bisque fired pieces. However, my instructor told me that it couldn't? I wanted to see what everyone thought?

I have a Gare Perfect Fire 2329D. Last 06 Bisque firing; programmed the Controller to ramp at 250 degrees F per hour (after firing to 250 degrees slowly). After 8 hours the temperature read 1180 degrees F and it was still ON. This Controller has a Soft Fire feature which I did not remember selecting. And, I don't fully understand and never have selected during bisque firings. When I reviewed the programmed instructions Soft Fire showed up so I select the "Down Arrow" and it stopped showing and the Kiln Shut Off. The buttons on the key pad have been getting sticky (?), it can take 3-4 presses to get the "Select" key to blink at the changes. I replaced all the elements and relays two years ago and am not near 100 firings. This is the most jam packed load of bisque I have ever fired! What should I troubleshoot first?

Great so I bought cone 05 clay instead of cone 5 clay and of course realized this after I fired a few pieces to cone 5. Is there any way I can salvage these couple of pieces? If I try to glaze them, at this point, what cone glaze do I fire to? I've been told these are probably lost but I'm hoping you guys might have some creative alternatives...