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Showing results for tags 'Slip casting'.
Found 22 results
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Hello all! My partner and I want to slip cast cups, I have a bit of an idea when it comes to ceramics (thanks mum) but have some questions :) We have found a clay that already has a speckle in it - can we use it to make slip for casting? If the clay cannot be made into slip - is there something we could add to plain slip to make a speckled look (that's food safe)? Can we add pigment to clay/slip that already has a speckle? Would this interfere with the chemistry? I know the other option is to use glaze to achieve a speckled look but we would prefer that it came from the clay. (the speckled glaze I have used in the past is glossy and we want a matte finish) I've attached a picture of the look we want to achieve with slip casting - I hope this helps Thanks everyone xx
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I want to make a series of porcelain door knobs. At first, I thought I could slip cast a prototype -- but I'm having trouble figuring out how to fasten the knob to a spindle without glue. Another option would be to reglaze plain white porcelain knobs from Home Depot. Does anyone have experience with making ceramic door knobs? I've seen lots of threaded inserts for making cabinet knobs accept screws, but only one source for door knobs and it's $15 for just one piece! I looked into all kinds of hardware but can't find anything to match a door knob spindle, which is normally 9/32" with 20 threads per inch. If I try reglazing the commercial knobs, would it help to rough them up with sandpaper first? I understand that reglazing is unpredictable, but it sounds like a cone 4 - cone 6 would be safe. My last resort would be to use Pebeo paints and forgo glazing altogether -- but I much prefer the look and durability of ceramics glazes.... -
Hi all, I'd like to have a go at slip casting but wondered if I could use a piece of bisque ware as a mould instead of making a plaster mould? Bisque ware is porous so I thought it might work too. Has anybody tried this and if so, was it successful? Thank you in advance.
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I have been using the same clay,slip and glazes purchased from a local ceramic shop. Everything has turned out beautifully but I got a new mug mold that will NOT stop giving me issues! The mug is slip cast using low fire slip. I fire to bisque..all good. Then I apply my glaze and fire..I let the kiln cool for at least 12 hours and still around the rim and handles I keep getting light crazing. No matter what I do..less glaze, more glaze, longer firing, soaking on high, the mug will still craze. Keep in mind, I haven't changed anything from the other ceramics I'm glazing, which all turn out without crazing, just the mugs are crazing. It's weird and I can't seem to figure out why or what I can do to keep this from happening. If you need any other info just let me know. I have a ceramic shop and really need to fix this issue asap! -Casi
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Hello, I'm looking for a mold maker and slip caster to assist with my ceramics. I'm located in San Diego so I'd love to work with someone in the Southern Cal area but I'm open to other options. If you have mold making and slip casting expertise, please reach out as I'd love to give you some work =). Thanks, Nicole 303-957-6234 nicole@clayandcraft.com -
Hello, I am fairly new to slip casting (about 9 months), and have been trying to learn as much possible through books and videos. I haven't delved into making my own slip yet, instead I have been using Dover Slip from Miller (Laguna). It is a Cone 6 White Stoneware. I am having some issues with the slip: 1) A film forms on top the slip after sitting in the mold for about 10 minutes. 2) When I do the hand dip test no webbing is forming at all. 3) I believe the Specific Gravity is 1.8 (which should be right) I measured out 100ml and it weighs 180 grams. 4) It is pretty thick, pours out of the mold poorly leaving behind some gunk on the rim of the mold (makes for an uneven lip of my tableware) 5) It doesn't pull from the mold well, sometimes even 2 hours later I still can't get a simple cup out. Just for some addition information the room I am casting in lately has been around 85-95 degrees F, with pretty high humidity. What I am trying to figure out is if I need to add more deflocculant or if the slip has come over deflocculated from the factory, or perhaps I need to add more water. Thanks for the input. -Matt
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Hi everyone, Hope you all have had a good holiday weekend. I have a quick question regarding warppaged and drying of porcelain slip casting. I have a couple of plate moulds and I would like to cast using porcelain. Does porcelain slip warp? Should I follow the same rules for plates regarding drying slowly and upside down? Thanks. Enjoy the rest of the day. Andrea
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Hi, I'm new to ceramics (painting bisque pieces with stain mostly). I'd like to start pouring and firing my own pieces but had a question about caring for ceramic molds. I found a used mold I'd like to buy for slip casting, but it looks like there might be a fungus growing in it (part of the mold is discolored, black). The seller says that the mold hasn't been poured in a long time, so it's unclear whether the discoloration/fungus would transfer to the green ware when poured. Before I throw away good money on a possibly bad mold, I was wondering if anyone knew of a way to clean or remove the discoloration/fungus without damaging the mold? Thanks! -
Good morning, Here I am again consulting the experts. I have an order for four mugs, they are to be the same and done in porcelain. I'm not at the stage where I can throw semi-identical items. So I thought I'd throw the form that they like and then cast a mould and use porcelain slip. Here's the problem. I've looked at a lot of youtube videos about making moulds and they involve a lot of work. My thinking is that I build a containment area out of tiles. Press the form half way into clay. Fill the remainder with plaster of paris. Then repeat for the second half. As the sides are identical no need for registration marks. Are my thoughts incorrect? Does the mug have to be leather hard or bone dry? Oh and the thrown mug has curves but no handles. Thought I'd cast those as well and slip them together. Your thoughts and advice would as usual be most appreciated. Have yourself a productive but relaxing day. Andrea
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I'm interested in experimenting with alternative porous materials suitable for slip casting, with useful properties such as flexibility, faster drying, increased durability, machinable, etc. Can anyone suggest plastics (foamed PVC, polyurethane, etc.) or other plasters (eg: Hydrostone) worth looking into? Thanks!
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I am using a pre mixed stoneware slip. I am casting in several different moulds, one part and two part. During the initial drying before (and sometimes after) I remove from the mould, the inside bottom of the pots craze and crack. I am drying them out slowly and not in a warm room. Why oh why oh why? Can provide photo if required -
I have been trying to find an answer to this online with no result. If I were to mix two kinds of premixed casting slip with different shrinkage rates, what would happen? Would the shrinkage average out or would a mushroom cloud obliterate my dad's kiln shed? We want to try mixing Laguna Oriental Pearl (shrinkage 14%) with Lagina White Stoneware (shrinkage 10%). I know that stoneware/porcelain blends exist as a clay form, but I'm not sure how it works with slip.- 19 replies
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Hi Everyone! Have you heard about a 3d printer that can make / print plaster? I mean the master form/ core (maybe not using the righ words). Not the slip cating forms/plaster moulds, but the first form. thanks Nandor
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From the album: Work in Progress
This is a special pie plate made with two tones of casting slip. I then decorated it with leaves and swirling vines in slip and sgraffito carving on the inside.© Copyright Giselle Massey 2015
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Hi, I slip cast my work using low fire clay. I fire three times, Bisque and glaze at cone 05 and decals at cone 010. I am having problem with one particular slip casted platter consistently. In third firing (cone 010) this style develops hairline crack. Not all the pieces develop the crack but lately 3 out of 4 have, which implies I am doing something wrong, but I am not able to figure out what? I glaze the whole platter ( inside out) balancing it on triangular firing stilt and they are fine after glaze firing. It is the last cone 010 firing for decal that the crack appears. As the crack is not sharp and glaze seems to bend inwards I gather it happens at the early stage of firing. Please advice.
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Hi, I have recently been experimenting with converting a few of my production pieces to slip cast pieces. I took a Hiroe Hanazono workshop at Arrowmont, ( excellent BTW ) and learned the basics of slip casting. Since then I've made molds of my pieces and have cast several of them. Everything is going swimmingly except... My work is all in a red clay, I use RedRock from Highwater, fire it to a hot 5 / cool 6, I have made a slip from RedRock by drying then adding 40% water and .3% Darvan 811. The problem that I'm getting is that my slip keeps gelling up. I've already got over the maximum amount of deflocculant in it, and have had to add water anyway bringing my specific gravity down to 1.6 instead of the desired 1.75. It's working, but still gelling, I assume from the Iron in the clay. Does anyone have a good cone5/6 red slip for slip casting recipe? I don't mind if it is speckled or not, and it doesn't have to match red rock exactly, just be red. I appreciate any input ! Thanks
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Does anyone know if you can fix a hot spot on a mold?
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How do I fix too much dispex in my slip?
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Hello! I'm new to this forum, and new to ceramics. I am starting a pipe making business, and I am stuck on a certain part of it. I have settled on ceramics as the material to start out with as it is cheap and quick, perfect to start out. If I can find a studio to produce it and If it's possible to do what I'm trying to do. The problem I'm having is figuring out the best way to make this bowl. It has a chamber. It also has thin walls. I can make the walls slightly thicker, but the chamber is obviously required. Can anyone help me out? I need to know if it's possible to make this out of ceramic, and if so, will the average studio be able to accomplish it? Should I even worry about the way its made, or should I just find a studio that can tell me they can do it? Any advice or direction would be much appreciated! -
My question is how does copyright impact slip casting? My grandmother past a way not to long ago and I now have many of her slip casting molds. Some of these molds have the manufacture name and copyright logo etc. I also know that these can also be purchased online. How does this process work? Once you own the mold you can do as you wish with it? Create plates, cups, bowels etc and then sell them? or is the process of selling them not allowed with the copyright? I'm a little confused on how this might impact me as an artist or a future business with selling online slip-cast items. Thanks for any help. Stormy
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hi all im doing my fine art honours at uni and i have a slip casting mold of a baby in 6 sererate parts, what I wanted to know is..can u use porcelain slip, as when my mould are made and done, I have to join the pieces together before i can set them aside to dry before biscue so is it possible to use porcelain slip and porcelain clay to join the pices together or should i just stick with white earthenware
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Hi all, My first post so be gentle. I have been a full time potter for about 20 years but up to now all of my work has been mostly wheel based. I am now working on a new range that will be a combination of wheel thrown and slip cast pieces. Up to now I have bought small quantities of pre made slip to just test things out. I will soon need to scale this up so need to decide if I should continue to buy slip in the liquid form or should I begin to buy the powdered clay and a blunger to start producing my own slip. I have talked to a few people and have arguments from both sides. Some say only a hobbyist would buy the liquid form others saying the savings are not worth the hassle of making it yourself. Initially I am talking about producing maybe 200-250 pieces a week this way but this will probably increase as more cast pieces are added to the range. So, any thoughts as to which method is more practicle/cost efficent/easier etc Would appreciate any input Thanks Thomas
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