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Found 76 results

  1. Dear Community As everyone is self-isolating here in the UK, I'm encouraging my students and others to handbuild at home and I want to enable them to fire without a kiln in as simple a way as possible. It gets very frustrating for beginners to be unable to fire work and I want to maintain their enthusiasm. We are using the kurinuki method so that there will be no joints to break open. I know that there are some Japanese firing methods for low temp work using small containers but I can't find the videos again on You Tube. I've been trawling the internet but not come up with what I am looking for yet. Has anyone had any experience of ONCE firing at low temps using such a method? Or could you point me in the right direction to do more research? I am planning to do some tests myself using an old Weber barbecue with low firing crank and raku glazes and I appreciate that there might be a lot of failures but am keen to experiment. Thank you all so much
  2. I fired 20 4"x4" raku tiles today and all but 4 broke either during the firing or as soon as they were removed from the kiln. I did fire them propped vertically on ceramic brick so I could remove them with tongs. They were hand built tiles with leaf impressions using Standard Ceramics 239 Raku clay. They cracked in half or close to in half. What caused them to crack? (I have been doing raku firings for 40 years). Diane
  3. I'm experimenting with Wayne Higby's Raku glazes....Higby Canyon Orange, Higby Water Blue, Higby Green, and have not yet hit the "sweetspot" for glaze maturation. They seem tricky and have tried different thicknesses and temps, with minimal success. Been trying in the 1800-1900 degree range. Anybody out there using these glazes with success and can direct me to what temp you're firing them at? Thanks, Mike Brown, LizardHill Pottery
  4. What is the highest cone temp you have reached in your Raku kiln- ill be using Propane for the fuel source.
  5. Hi friendly pottery community! I am in the process of building a raku kiln from an oil drum, and I have been scouring various sources online and in books to try and answer some questions but have had no luck! I thought it might be easier to just ask. 1. What kind of burner should I buy? The raku burner kits from pottery suppliers seem prohibitively expensive, and I wondered if they are putting a big mark up on something which could be bought cheaper from a builders merchant or similar. However, as I am new to this and don't really know much about burners, I don't want to cut costs and get the wrong thing. I gather from my various sources that the best fuel to go for is propane. 2. Fire bricks - what do I need to go for? I think I need to get some to build up a 'combustion zone' at the bottom of the drum, which a kiln shelf will sit on top of, and the burner will be aimed between them to build up heat. The options I see on the supplier I am currently browsing (Vitcas) are refractory and insulation. Are these the equivalent of hard and soft, as I have seen them referenced elsewhere? And how many should i need? It is a 55 gallon oil drum. 3. Am I right in thinking that the hole for the burner to enter the drum should be approx 2 x the size of the burner, and that the vent at the top of the drum should be double the size of the burner hole? 4. Should I get fire bricks for the oil drum to sit on? Or will it be ok just on concrete floor? I expect I'll have more questions as I progress with the build, but thats it for now! Antonia
  6. This book has just been released and focuses on kiln firing fir Raku, Pit, and Barrel plus high fire wood kilns. The galleries are full of beautiful work by many ceramic artists. I am excited to be included along with many others. One piece of mine is an Obvara pot with sodium silicate crackle surface and the other in an installation of terra cotta paper clay books pit fired during my residency at Archie Bray. I used the train kiln and a pit. The installation is a memorial piece for 9/11. Marcia
  7. What foods, if any, are safe in a low fired vessel? Specific ally, can I keep tea bags in one? Fruit like apples or peaches? Thank you
  8. From the album: July 2019

    Copper & cobalt oxide glazes applied to bisque fired (950oC) pieces. Fired in a dustbin raku kiln at recent kiln building workshop. (1000oC) then plunged into sawdust to reduce.
  9. Hi, I currently do smoke firings in an oil drum, fired with wood, but I would like more control over the temperatures reached. I’m thinking of building raku kiln from another drum and trying saggar firings. One question I have is about regulators. I had always intended to use a high pressure regulator but have found it difficult to source an inexpensive change over regulator (I want to be able to connect two gas bottles up) for high pressure systems. There seem to be plenty of change over regulators for low pressure systems, so I was wondering if it would make any difference if I went for a low pressure system instead. I believe some people use low pressure systems for raku. What are the differences between using high and low pressure systems? Is there a difference in the results, the time it takes and the cost? Also, how many firings would you expect to get from a 5gk or 10kg gas bottle? Thanks Kirakat
  10. Hi guys, I have been trying raku firing at a center where I was introduced to ceramics few months ago, So far I have made some vessels but they are not suitale for water retention. I wonder if there is a way to make raku vessles waterproof? I have heard of a product called Thompson Water Seal in USA. and someone suggested to coat the vessel internally with a mixture of boiled starch so as to seal the clay. Any suggestion? I live in Europe, so any specific product I can get my hands on without incurring in huge import fees is very much appreciated :) Thanks for your inputs. Pierpaolo
  11. From the album: JohnnyK

    First commissioned Horsehair Raku piece

    © John Klunder

  12. In this hands on workshop learn to use mica to create subtle colors and lustrous effects with different alternative firing techniques. Attendees will also make a piece from micaceous clay from New Mexico which has glittery effects from the mica, and special insulating properties. Date: February 23-24, 2019 Time: 9 AM to 4:30 PM daily Fee: $300 for non-studio members $275 for members of American Ceramics Society So-Cal, Ventura County Potters' Guild, Clay Artists of San Diego, and AMOCA members Attendees will need to bring: 6-8 medium sized bisqued pieces not larger than 6 x 6 inches. Bisque to Cone 08 if possible. Use a white clay body that can withstand thermal shock, or Soldate 60 with some of Randy and Don's terra sigillata on it. Contact The Clay Yard for this recipe. 909.391.1192 We will provide the mica, horsehair, feathers and micaceous clay. See attached images of examples of this type of work. Call The Clay Yard at 909.391.1192 to reserve your spot!
  13. Wondering if anyone has experienced peeling of underglazes and/or colored slip when firing with raku clear glaze. One experienced potter suggesrwd adding EPK kaolin...Any similar experience out there?
  14. Has anybody used underglazes under a clear crackle Raku?
  15. Does anyone know where to purchase the 1 sq in wire mesh that is the frame for this kiln? I don't think i've seen it at any of the hardware stores around where I live.They seem to just have wider grid mesh. Is there some sort of specialty store that sells sturdy wire mesh? (Not chicken wire). I am going to build this kiln as soon as I get this mesh! I have the burner and some of the bricks, I know where to get the ceramic fibre & the ni-chrome wire- I just have to find a source for the mesh.
  16. Hi folks! I've just been given to me what I hoped to be my first own electric kiln. It's a very very small stackable top loading kiln. The chamber is more or less a cube with 12"\13" (32cm) side. Microscopic but mine! Unfortunately it doesn't work... () because it's not able to go above 1300F (700°C)... It's too a small and old kiln to spend money to replace the heating elements, even because the control unit is very "primitive" so I would have very small control on temperature rising velocity ecc.. Just to not toss everything, I thought to convert it in a updraft raku kiln. It's a lot of time I've planned to build one raku kiln and I think that this can be a good occasion since I can save the cost of the isolating blanket. I'm little scared that the kiln will be just too small to have an evengas heating but at that point the cost of a barrel and a ceramic fiber blaket will be not so high... I read a ton of threads here and elseware but just I couldn't find out an indication on what the diameter of inlet and oulet should be... I will use a weed burner with a torch diameter of 6cm so I thought to make both the inlet (in the bottom) and outlet (in the lid) of 8cm... I need to buy and use a hole saw (and I want to retain the "scrap") so I want to be pretty sure that I'm not going to enlarge it because are too small... I'm going to put a cordierite"flame spreader" 5cm high above the inlet hole. Somebody could give me some tip or tell me if this stuff will never work properly??
  17. Week 33 Although raku ware was guided to fame in ________ by Sen-no Rikyu - because it was favored by him for use in the tea ceremony – the raku ware itself was originated by Chojiro, the son of a Korean tile maker. Toono Gujo-Hachiman Kyoto Hirosaki For centuries the tea ceremony, called _______________ (hot water for tea), has been responsible for creating an appreciation and understanding of raku pottery. Usa-Cha Cha-No-Yu Koicha Kaiseki Clay for raku must mature chemically at or above ______________.; contain enough course or refractory material – such as grog, sand, volcanic ash, pumice, talc, or alumina – to withstand the thermal shock; respond well to the technique of forming; and successfully survive the firing. 19150F. 21000F. 12000 F. 16000F. History and legend indicate that ______________ glazed pottery may have contributed to the decline of Roman aristocracy, and the eventual fall of the Roman empire.. . . . .also thought to be a source of disease or disability among the segment of the Mexican poor who use such potter. stoneware frit lead zinc This weeks questions come from Raku Pottery, by Robert Pipenburg, c.1972, Collier Books, a division of Macmillan Publishing Co. Note from Pres:This is one of my older books, as I purchased it when I was taking Ceramics in undergrad at Penn State. We were studying raku at the time. No points for getting J. Baymore to help you out with the answers. Answers: 3. Kyoto-Although raku ware was guided to fame in Kyoto by Sen-no Rikyu - because it was favored by him for use in the tea ceremony - the raku ware itself was originated by Chojiro, the son of a Korean tile maker. During the 1520s Chojiro settled in Kyoto, and took the title Sokei after marrying into a Japanese family, and became naturalized. Rikyu became so fond of Chojiro that he honored him by giving him his father's name of Tanaka. 2. Cha-No-Yu-The Tea Ceremony, like raku, is almost synonymous with Japan. For centuries the tea ceremony, called Cha-No—Yu (hot water for tea), has been responsible for creating an appreciation and understanding of raku pottery. The tea ceremony used raku tea bowls because they symbolized the beauty, the simple and unassuming qualities, that were in harmony with everyday life. 4. 16000 F.-Clay for use in raku can be found almost anywhere. The only require- ments are that the clay must mature chemically at or above 1600° F.; contain enough coarse or refractory material - such as grog, sand, volcanic ash, pumice, talc, or alumina - to withstand the thermal shock; respond well to the technique of forming; and successfully survive the firing. 3 .lead-History and legend indicate that lead-glazed pottery may have contributed to the decline of Roman aristocracy, and the eventual fall of the Roman Empire. Wine stored in lead-glazed vessels or drunk from lead- glazed cups could have carried lead particles. The ingesting of these lead particles may have caused sterility as a result of chronic lead poisoning. The lead-glazed Mexican pottery of today is thought to be a source of disease or disability among the segment of the Mexican poor who use it. Reports from many countries throughout the world implicate lead as a poisoning agent that can cause serious illness, especially among children.
  18. From the album: Raku

    On Tuesday some friends helped me install the new lid with counter weight in my kiln shed. On Monday same friends dugs a hole for gravel for my raku kiln. I filled it with gravel and laid the half cinder blocks. After I put the cinderblocks down, they moved the frame in place. Today I raised the floor to a double cinderblock height . This weekend I will work of the stainless steel chamber lined with fiber. Beautiful weather after our early snow last week.
  19. I am doing my first raku fire this Saturday and am feeling well prepared. I'm so excited! I don't have a pyrometer.. . Do I just watch the pots (with protective eyewear) til glowing orange? How can I tell when they're ready for the reduction chamber? Also, any suggestions for firing tiny finicky pieces? I realized after I made them that it won't be easy to grab them with tongs and move them over. I thought maybe just smoke fire them in a bowl but that means no glaze. If I use glaze without silica will they stick together if touching? Any tips, tricks or advice is welcome!
  20. what kind of a sealer can be used to slow oxidation of copper raku? Beads I use for drop earrings have turned green.
  21. Hi, and best holiday wishes and a Merry Christmas to all~ I have a 55Gallon barrel drum Raku kiln, but even with two 300000btu brush torches I cant get past 1600F, and my Amaco Glaze matures at cone five, 1895-1900. Is there a burner that can get me to cone 05, or do I search for lower fie glazes? I've really been trying what I can dream up, but just cant hit that temp. Any Insights would be very helpful. Thanks! I have a 4" port, and a 6" exhaust. I have one layer of kiln blanket, and the 3" barrel bung open for exhaust.
  22. I've purchased the Alternative Kilns and Firing Techniques book and I want to refire some ware originally done in a workshop, using the alcohol reduction method. The original firing was just copper fuming. In the instructions the author says to add pine needles prior to covering the ware. Why pine needles? I can't get dry needles because it's been raining so does anyone have a suggestion for an alternative? Thanks. Have a good day. Andrea
  23. Morning all, Can you help please. I'm doing a raku workshop this weekend and I need to produce some pots using terra sig. I use a commercial raku clay and I need to know if I can use it slaked down to produce the terra sig? Marcia's video indicates ball clay, but I'm confused as to whether I should use stoneware ball clay? Thanks for your help Andrea
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