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Found 215 results

  1. Hello, I finally feel comfortable with the number of tests I have run to share this information and make a definitive conclusion and recommendation. I have run 34 firing tests with burping and contrasted the results with 28 firings without burping. THIS IS ONLY A PROCESS FOR GLAZING. DOING THIS FOR BISQUE MAY CAUSE CRACKS. I HAVE NOT TESTED ON ONCE-FIRED WORK. Firstly, what do I mean when saying "burping kilns." The term comes from Raku (where I got started with pottery). Burping Raku is when you let oxygen into the container/ditch that you have your raku pieces sitting, many other potters, and I have found it to allow the glazes to become more active and colorful. However, that is not what I am referring to here. I am going to share with you my process to have your ceramics be more resistant to crawling. Process: Firstly, I do a slow ramp of my glaze loads (100-150 degrees/hour) to 250 degrees to allow for moisture to leave the pots. However, this is not a slow enough ramp and high enough temperature to completely rid your pieces of water and holding at such a low temperature adds unnecessary time to firings. So, every 150-200 degrees until about 700 degrees, I pop open the lid of my kiln for ten-fifteen seconds to allow for moisture to be released. Now, you are surely asking, "Why?" and "Will this damage my elements?" Why? - When I have burped the kiln, I have found glazes less likely to crawl. I also have found it less likely for the melt on glazes to be uneven. Will this damage your elements? - From what I have found, I have seen no stress on the elements. I have measured the time of firings and the life of the elements over two different sets, testing between burping and no burping. The process is incredibly easy- Know your ramp speeds, and calculate when your kiln will progress every 150 or 200 degrees, and go to your kiln with a pair of gloves and open the lid quickly. Do as many times as you would like until you hit 650/700 degrees. Anything over 700 will not work. (Little side note- If you wear glasses, take them off before doing this. It is incredibly foggy and can probably melt the plastic) Please try this on your own and let me know if you find this process to work for you and your glazes. To my knowledge, no one has written about this, and I have come up with this process myself. If this is a process that someone has written about, please let me know, for I do not want to take credit for something that isn't mine, even something as minuscule as opening the lid of your kiln.
  2. The kiln is giving me an E1 error. Can I fix this myself? How?
  3. Hi ! I am so glad I found this forum. I am trying to kick start a ceramic club. Here at our facility we have our Kiln room that is fully equipped, completed with endless amount of supplies. I really hit the mother load, however this room has not been utilized in ten(10) years or so. We have EVERYTHING, but nothing has an expiration date. I've been into ceramics since high school, unfortunately this is just something I am not familiar with. Most of our supplies are either Mayco or Duncan Bisque, I might call customer service to check with them about their under glazes, glazes, paints and such. But if you have any tips, advice on anything that might help. We have our kiln that is practically brand new it just needs love. Also does anyone know if porcelain or earthenware that has been here that long is still good to use and if so how to give it life. I know this is a lot, any help is welcomed thank you in advanced
  4. Hello, I just came upon a medium size kiln. It was free, came with no manual or use instructions. I am a first time kiln user so I don't want to do anything without more information on this specific kiln. It is a very old Aim Ceramic Kiln with a sitter, Model K-10. Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice on this particular kiln? Thank you
  5. Hey Ceramiacs I've been reading about the topic on the net, and it seems that there are very different opinions on subject. I was wondering if someone had a more scientific approach to the matter. Some say that you should open at 130F, and I think that is a little strange because that means that if you make a cup, you have to mind the temperature of you coffee, and other hot things you may consume of you pottery. If you open the kiln at 150f and hear crackling, isn't that a coincidence. I mean if the kiln are outside and it is freezing, I see how it might play a role. But it just seem strange that ceramics that reach red hot temperatures are sensitive too degrees that low . thanks,-] AC
  6. I have a standard old school Skutt with a kiln sitter but not really old, from about 2005 or so, just not computerized. It normally runs like a champ and no issues with the elements. I belong to a large co-op but probably do 10 or so loads at home so it doesn't get heavy use as I fire most of my work at the other studio. Of course I have a show this week-end and was ready to run one last load through since I sold quite a bit at my co-op sale. For the first time my kiln tripped the breaker when I turned it to high, but not right away, about a half hour in. This is after I had it on low for an hour vented and then on medium for at least another hour with no issues. When I ran it on high it tripped the breaker after about a half hour. I re-set it and tried again and had the same issue. I didn't want to keep trying as there must be a more serious issue though I can't understand what would be causing it to trip when the temperature goes up. Anyone have any ideas? I may have to call in someone to fix if I can't figure it out myself. Thanks
  7. Hello all! I currently have a Cress FX1814P manual kiln (with kiln sitter) that I have been using for about 10 years. I got it (very) used, since it's circa approximately 1978. I have had to replace a relay since I've had it, and the brick on the inside has a couple of chunks missing, but all in all it's been a really good little kiln. I have been contemplating purchasing a new kiln, and have narrowed it down to the Cress E1414 automatic kiln, due to it having the electronic readout. I am, however, having a tough time finding any reviews at all for either of them, and was wondering if anyone in this community has either of these models, specifically the E1414, and if it is worth purchasing a new one just for the automatic readout, when my old clunker seems to work just fine? Cheers! Pinky
  8. Hi! I plan to build a small gas kiln to start my first experiments in ceramics. I researched a bit, flipped through some books, and it seemed accessible to me to build a little double crossdraft kiln. This model of kiln, known in Japanese as itte-koi-gama (いってこい窯) , is popular as a wood kiln (the Phoenix kiln or Philosopher’s Kiln) but little used on gas. It looks like a plan for a small gas kiln was published on Building Your Own Kiln, Three Japanese Potters Give Advice And Instructions , but I didn't have access to this book. So looking at some kilns over the internet (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) I made a plan for a kiln to firing in cone 10 for two 12X12 inch kiln shelves, the chamber is 3,1 ft³. I wonder if anyone has ever had contact with such a gas kiln. My main question is about the size of the chimney. The models I saw didn't have a big chimney, which leaves me wondering about Fred Olsen's rule. What do you think? I was thinking of building a five-foot chimney. The input size corresponds to the output size and the size of the chimney tunnel. Is it better or safer to have a wider chimney or not? Any comments that might help me in this kiln are welcome, thanks!
  9. Hi Everyone, I remember reading something several years ago about the possibility of a kiln off-gassing and permanently fogging up windows in the building. I am hoping to get my first kiln late this summer or early this fall. Because of what I read years ago, I was going to build a separate 10 x 10 kiln shed. But, I notice from other forum posts that many of you have your kilns in the garage. We have a large 3 car garage and I could easily wall off a section for the kiln if I don’t have to worry about the kiln messing up the cars. What are the risks of having a kiln in the garage with cars? It will be electric and will be vented to the outside. Thanks, Shannon
  10. Since day 1 I wanted to do wood firing. I started with an electric kiln and although it is possible to do interesting things I'm still focused on ultimately doing Anagama. I cant truly test Cone 10 glazes in my electric and want to get as close to possible to that environment, which means a way to do reduction, neutral and oxidation. So I got a broke down Duncan kiln donated to me and the burner came in today so I'm super excited!!! Stripping it down tonight and getting the elements out then will figure out how to cut the burner port and the top opening. Then I have to find a 40 - 50 gallon tank. Gaaaaaaah excited! df
  11. Our college was gifted a Siegy front-loading gas kiln [Model No. unlisted] in which we are hoping to refurbish. We are in search of a hard copy or digital PDF of the operation manual, as we have been unable to locate one via Siegy Kilns & Equip. or online. Any help to get this kiln operational would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
  12. What is the highest cone temp you have reached in your Raku kiln- ill be using Propane for the fuel source.
  13. Hello, If you have a small used kiln (still working) and basic studio equipment, please contact me. I am in Florida. I found a kiln. Thank you.
  14. Hi guys , We are INSULATORS manufacturer HOLLOW INSULATORS have these problems of ID OVERFIRED problem rest of all material is OK If we talk abouts shed(which is thin portion of INSULATORS ) is OK stem is OK but in ID facing OVERFIRED problem Top portion of ID approx..300mm is OK Bottom portion of ID approx ..300mm is OK But middle portion of ID which is 500-600mm is OVERFIRED How can be short out this problem If we talk about other material like bushing is OK in same kiln Note:- HOLLOW ITEM FIRED IS BOTH HANG AND WITHOUT HANG BUT FACING PROBLEM CONSISTENT ... Please suggest new firing technics What are change required in kiln schedule or state of firing Regards VIKASH BHAGAT
  15. I am thinking of opening a members only clay studio, as all of them in my area have long waitlists and the demand is there. I haven’t found any recent threads on the operations costs or best practices associated with running a studio. Can anyone help me out by providing hard expenses associated with and any tips for this business? Thanks in advance for your help!
  16. I'm moving from a community studio to a studio in my garage and I'm planning on purchasing a large kiln, however I bought a small used Skutt 614 (it's tiny) off craigslist so that I could gain some experience with kilns before making the leap to an expensive larger kiln. My problem - once I got this used little Skutt home I see that the previous owner had twisted one of the electric prongs on the plugs to make it a 110v. Tt looks like the plug is compatible with 115v.) It appears that they twisted one of the prongs 90 degrees. I've been speaking to electricians about rewiring this little kiln, but I'm wondering if I could just twist the prong back to the original 115v position and then use a proper adapter from the hardware store rather than replacing the full plug/cord. Another option is to not bother and cut my loses. The kiln cost me $100, and ultimately will be too small for what I need. But it appears to be in good shape visually otherwise. I have not plugged it in. thanks in advance! Karen
  17. Hello! Ive been building a home studio and am at the stage where I would really like a kiln (thinking the Skate KM-1027) but feel out of my depth. The studio I currently fire at is wildly unpredictable and I frequently come out with things that are unsaleable or they dont make it out of the fire at all. Im in Los Angeles and would love a mentor of sorts who could help me with the process. Anyone in LA? thanks!
  18. Hello! Im slowly building a home studio and am ready to add a kiln. Is there anyone in Los Angeles who has an electrician they would recommend? Thanks!!
  19. Hello! Ive been building a home studio and am at the stage where I would really like a kiln (thinking the Skate KM-1027) but feel out of my depth. The studio I currently fire at is wildly unpredictable and I frequently come out with things that are unsaleable or they dont make it out of the fire at all. Im in Los Angeles and would love a mentor of sorts who could help me with the process. Anyone in LA? thanks!
  20. Hi there! After receiving some truly valuable information from a knowledgeable community member on here, I've decided to give up on my old kiln and invest in a new one. Since then I've begun researching which kiln might be right for me. I am planning on only firing low fire, cone 06 clay, and glaze of the same cone temperature. I would love a kiln that might double as a jewelry making kiln so that I may create some pieces out of metal clay as well. I came across the Evenheat Kingpin 88 on a ceramics website, and at first glance, thought it might be perfect. However, everywhere that sells it mentions that its great for jewelry making, glass etc. but nothing about ceramics. I'm not sure if it's because most people would get a kiln with a higher maximum temp to do so, or if there is another reason. Hoping someone out there knows if this kiln could be used for ceramics as well! Thanks so much in advance!!! -April
  21. I am in the position to buy a used E23 cress electronic kiln. It has only been fired for china painting (017) and only less than a dozen times. However, after checking the serial number I realize that it is a 2002 model. I looked at this kiln and it is in near mint condition and was kept inside the home with a ventilator system attachement - any information would be great in helping me with this purchase- thank you!
  22. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  23. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  24. Portland, Oregon. Moving and downsizing. Entertaining all offers. I have: Motorized Laguna kick wheel $550 Working Skutt 818P kiln $300 Raku kiln with burner $125 Shopping cart raku kiln with shelf $100 Non-working kiln $59 Summit 2 burner unit (no pics) $75 Best to phone me at 503-255-3151 (landline) if interested.
  25. I have 150 K26 soft bricks that have been drilled through with about a 5/8-inch hole on the broad side of the brick. I want to fill the holes and then reuse these bricks. Does anyone have a recommendation on what type of material/product to use? I have looked online and see that there are fillers intended for repairing small kilns, but these products are packaged in small amounts - too small - and by the time I'd buy it I'd have spent more than I'd be saving by salvaging the bricks I have. The bricks are to be used for a lid for a wood fire train kiln. The first design is failing and has to be rebuilt.
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