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Found 206 results

  1. I am thinking of opening a members only clay studio, as all of them in my area have long waitlists and the demand is there. I haven’t found any recent threads on the operations costs or best practices associated with running a studio. Can anyone help me out by providing hard expenses associated with and any tips for this business? Thanks in advance for your help!
  2. I'm moving from a community studio to a studio in my garage and I'm planning on purchasing a large kiln, however I bought a small used Skutt 614 (it's tiny) off craigslist so that I could gain some experience with kilns before making the leap to an expensive larger kiln. My problem - once I got this used little Skutt home I see that the previous owner had twisted one of the electric prongs on the plugs to make it a 110v. Tt looks like the plug is compatible with 115v.) It appears that they twisted one of the prongs 90 degrees. I've been speaking to electricians about rewiring this little kiln, but I'm wondering if I could just twist the prong back to the original 115v position and then use a proper adapter from the hardware store rather than replacing the full plug/cord. Another option is to not bother and cut my loses. The kiln cost me $100, and ultimately will be too small for what I need. But it appears to be in good shape visually otherwise. I have not plugged it in. thanks in advance! Karen
  3. Hello! Ive been building a home studio and am at the stage where I would really like a kiln (thinking the Skate KM-1027) but feel out of my depth. The studio I currently fire at is wildly unpredictable and I frequently come out with things that are unsaleable or they dont make it out of the fire at all. Im in Los Angeles and would love a mentor of sorts who could help me with the process. Anyone in LA? thanks!
  4. Hello! Im slowly building a home studio and am ready to add a kiln. Is there anyone in Los Angeles who has an electrician they would recommend? Thanks!!
  5. Hello! Ive been building a home studio and am at the stage where I would really like a kiln (thinking the Skate KM-1027) but feel out of my depth. The studio I currently fire at is wildly unpredictable and I frequently come out with things that are unsaleable or they dont make it out of the fire at all. Im in Los Angeles and would love a mentor of sorts who could help me with the process. Anyone in LA? thanks!
  6. Hi there! After receiving some truly valuable information from a knowledgeable community member on here, I've decided to give up on my old kiln and invest in a new one. Since then I've begun researching which kiln might be right for me. I am planning on only firing low fire, cone 06 clay, and glaze of the same cone temperature. I would love a kiln that might double as a jewelry making kiln so that I may create some pieces out of metal clay as well. I came across the Evenheat Kingpin 88 on a ceramics website, and at first glance, thought it might be perfect. However, everywhere that sells it mentions that its great for jewelry making, glass etc. but nothing about ceramics. I'm not sure if it's because most people would get a kiln with a higher maximum temp to do so, or if there is another reason. Hoping someone out there knows if this kiln could be used for ceramics as well! Thanks so much in advance!!! -April
  7. I am in the position to buy a used E23 cress electronic kiln. It has only been fired for china painting (017) and only less than a dozen times. However, after checking the serial number I realize that it is a 2002 model. I looked at this kiln and it is in near mint condition and was kept inside the home with a ventilator system attachement - any information would be great in helping me with this purchase- thank you!
  8. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  9. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  10. Portland, Oregon. Moving and downsizing. Entertaining all offers. I have: Motorized Laguna kick wheel $550 Working Skutt 818P kiln $300 Raku kiln with burner $125 Shopping cart raku kiln with shelf $100 Non-working kiln $59 Summit 2 burner unit (no pics) $75 Best to phone me at 503-255-3151 (landline) if interested.
  11. I have 150 K26 soft bricks that have been drilled through with about a 5/8-inch hole on the broad side of the brick. I want to fill the holes and then reuse these bricks. Does anyone have a recommendation on what type of material/product to use? I have looked online and see that there are fillers intended for repairing small kilns, but these products are packaged in small amounts - too small - and by the time I'd buy it I'd have spent more than I'd be saving by salvaging the bricks I have. The bricks are to be used for a lid for a wood fire train kiln. The first design is failing and has to be rebuilt.
  12. Hi All, I have done weekly pottery classes at a local centre for a few years and am now thinking of trying to create my own pottery studio at home, having moved to a bigger house. I don't have a basement or garage, but there is a large glass and metal greenhouse at the end of the garden. The greenhouse is good quality, has electric hook up, and a cement foundation and floor. There are ceiling vents that open and close and a main door and lower vents on the other end wall. I've googled it and think this might work as a place to have a studio and fire the kiln (obviously I wouldn't sit in there when the kiln is on!) but wanted to check if anyone has done this before or knows of it working well? I'm slightly concerned about enough ventilation and the greenhouse possibly getting very hot when firing......?? There's also the possibility of maybe squeezing the kiln next to the greenhouse on the edge of the concrete base and building a shelter around it, but I live in Somerset in the UK and we have a wet humid climate so not sure that's the best idea..... Thanks Emma
  13. I somehow managed to put on a 15 hour HOLD instead of a 15 hour delay on a bisque meant for cone 04. Any ideas as to what cone that actually hit? I’m so scared to open the kiln. Still cooling. It held around 1900° for 15 hours. Clay is cone 6.
  14. Hi, I am not an artist, but am helping my daughter set up a new studio in her garage. Or a garagio as I believe it is sometimes called here. She has worked in a community studio for some time, and now wants more control over her work. The plan is to slowly add to the studio and eventually transition to it over the next year or two. She recently bought a used Skutt KM 1027 kiln which we wired up while I was visiting. This kiln has built in diagnostics, so I was wondering if regularly testing the element resistance is really needed most of the time. From the diagnostics screen you can have the kiln measure full load amps, voltage under load and unloaded, and the current through each set of element pairs individually. It does not seem to have an automatic resistance measurement, but these built in readings seem adequate for most day to day monitoring. I checked the service manual, and it states that an increase in resistance of more than 1.5 ohms indicated elements that need to be replaced. For the elements in this kiln, that is about a 5 or 6 percent increase. Using ohms law, this would mean that a decrease in current of 5 or 6 percent would also indicate worn elements. If you have a kiln with built in diagnostics, shouldn't it be fine to just monitor any drop in current until you see a significant change? My daughter certainly has a good quality multi-meter, and regularly checks the elements in her smaller Paragon kiln using it. But the wiring on the small kiln is less complicated and easier to access. Unplugging the larger kiln and opening up the access panel to individually check the element resistance seems like overkill unless there is an indication of issue. Particularly given the built in diagnostics. What do you folks do? Now I know that if a problem occurs, nothing beats directly reading the element resistance, because you might have other problems. A relay might be going bad, or there could be a poor connection somewhere. There might also have been a drop in line voltage under load, although the kiln does measure that as well. But on a regular basis, it would seem fine to trust the current readings, and not break out the multi-meter until there was more of an indication that something was going wrong. How often do you folks break out the ohm meter and test elements at the source? And do you open up the access panel and test the resistance at the connectors as Skutt shows in their manual, or just probe the elements inside the kiln? Also, would it depend on weather the kiln has any built in diagnostics? I will probably call Skutt to get the official story, but sometimes the folks using the equipment on a day to day basis have more practical advice. By the way, the kiln is supposed to be capable of reaching cone 10, but she only plans to fire to cone 6. Does that have any effect of how carefully she needs to adhere to the recommended replacement resistance? The elements right now are showing less than 1 ohm of resistance change,and are not warped or sagging. But I was wondering in the future what advice to give her.
  15. Hello I have an older Gare kiln model 1818 and the ceramuc tbe that holds the cone is cracked and broken. Does nayne know where you can get parts for these older kilns? Possibly manual as well? Thank you Cindy McNamara
  16. Hi all I can see from other posts that you are a very helpful bunch I am attempting to buy a second-hand front loader which has a simmerstat but no controller. Can't afford to retrofit a controller and I have used kilns in the past with kiln sitters which are helpful enough to get the results I need. Is is possible to retro-fit a kiln sitter? As these are mechanical devices I suspect that would be more difficult than the electronics of a controller? I am UK based and my husband is an electrical engineer so we can deal with any technical stuff. Thank you in advance
  17. Ugh, just UGH! I had a huge load to fire for a very important community project. Using a Cone 4-6 stoneware and Cone 4-6 glaze. Normally I fire to cone 5 and let it soak for 5 minutes. The kiln was almost to temp when I left for work this morning. (yes, I know, never leave a kiln, but I couldn't be late to work and the basement is all concrete and it was supposedly almost done) It should have been cool and ready to unload when I got home. instead, at the top of the stairs, I heard it. "cu-lick" "Rats. I thought to myself, I must have a rat in the basement, I would LOVE to have a rant in my basement because if that's not what it was... CU-LICK." Yes, my 10.5 hour firing went 20 hours. It appeared to be stuck at 2112 degrees. All three segment lights were lit. I don't know if a relay went out, if an element broke or what, but it appears to not have reached cone and just held shy of cone 5 for 9+ hours. What's killing me right now is wondering how bad it is inside. Are the pieces ruined, stuck to the shelf or in a gooey puddle at the bottom (that's probably not likely) This was the ONE time I didn't use witness cones because the thing was jammed so full I didn't have the space. The thing is still WAY too hot to consider even taking a quick peek. For the next several hours, I have nothing to do but obsess because this was a VERY important load (yeah, because that's how it happens) If in fact they aren't ruined and I can get them out by 4:00 AM, there is hope. So let's play a game... So Brain Trust. If in fact this was a 9 hour soak below the cone I was firing to, how bad is it likely to be?
  18. Hello I’m new here! I may be buying a used electric skutt kiln. Model 231 max cone 8. As far as a visual inspection what should I look for before buying? Specific problem areas or things I should know that would be a deal breaker ? Also any links to get more familiar with kilns ? Thank you :)
  19. As found groove crack after firing , Attachment :-Top view of Groove with crack in shell Item
  20. I have an Amaco top load kiln. It is 21 years old and gets light use-8-10 05 firings per year. Elements seem to be burning out more frequently the past few years. Is that typical of an older kiln or could there be a repairable issue causing it? The cost is adding up, and I wonder if it is time to replace.
  21. Hi! I'm an art teacher in Pine, AZ. I've gotten approval to put a kiln outside my art room on a cement pad. There is limited space, so I was looking at purchasing a small metal shed to house it in. (5x6ft with 6ft ceiling). I've called Skutt and they said their only concern would be it getting too hot and shutting down. I was going to install 2 roof turbine vents at the top and fire with the doors open. Also, I'll be doing the majority of my firing during winter (which here is more in the 40-50 degree weather). It would be a Skutt KS1027 Kiln, a shorter/wider model. Does anyone have any experience with this? What would you suggest? and Thankyou!
  22. Hello, I'm working on getting a kiln, and I'm considering getting a used Duncan automatic teacher plus. They are asking for $850 for it and say they only fired it a couple times. I haven't been able to find anything about this kiln, or a new one listed for sale on any of the websites I've previously looked at like clay king, kiln frog, etc. I don't feel very comfortable buying a kiln I can't find any info about. Does anyone have experience with this particular kiln? Is the price reasonable? I can't even figure out what size it is!
  23. Hi, My very old small top loader has finally given up on me and I am looking at buying a second hand replacement. I've been looking at a cromartie hobby tech 40 with a sitter, and the seller says it will fire to 1260 cone 7-8 I use, on 13amp plug, but I've seen someone else blog that working it out technically such a kiln will never reach stoneware. Can anyone advise me whether this kiln will really reach stoneware regularly, it's all I fire to? Or whether the person is correct and it is a theoretical temperature of 1300 that is achievable but not what will happen in the real world. I don't want to buy a white elephant. Thanks
  24. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy when trimming I'm willing to pug the new clay to soften it for throwing, if it is stiff and great for hand building, or visa versa Doesn't stain clothes or the tables, rolling pins, or make a mess everywhere Is not pure white (students can't see where they missed glazing spots when using light color glazes - painting) Good leather hard, doesn't soften up too easily when re-wetting to score things together Doesn't take every indentation to the surface of pieces, temperamentalD Centers on the wheel fairly easily, especially for teen girls with tiny hands Can take a good amount of water from beginners Pulling walls, it is strong, doesn't warp or sag easily Won't dry out too quickly in hands while hand building Doesn't bend or warp easily when removing from the wheel Not so soft that it caves when cutting and sliding off the wheel Doesn't make teens hate the class because it stains clothes or gets everywhere and of course, takes glazes well and can handle a little fluctuation in gas environments Cone 5 clays I've Tried: Laguna - Dover White: Nice clay, but pure white. easy to center, but A little soft when hand building Laguna - Plain (Buff): Nice light tan color, easy center and to rehydrate if repairing, but a bit too squishy and shows every dent Laguna - Moroccan Sand: I love this clay, doesn't leave residue - color, but a bit dense to center. It is really dark grayish brown, if they only could lighten it Laguna - Buff with Sand: Nice tan color, but WAY too sandy for students on the wheel Laguna - Greystone: Too dense and top heavy for small pieces, hard to center, but really takes a beating with water, warps when thin due to density of surrounding clay Laguna - Speckled Buff: A bit dark in color, has iron so it gets read everywhere, could stain (think girls with pure white vans) Laguna - LB-6: hmmm, can't remember, but nixed it very soon after Laguna - Sante Fe: OMG - red EVERYWHERE, like a crime scene Aardvark Clay - SBF - Too dark tan - a bit sticky for students Aardvark Clay -Arctic White: Too white Opinions???? Go!!!
  25. Hello All, I have a kiln full of goods and I want to fire it. I am a potter and have been teaching myself how to fire my kiln. So far I have been using the pre-programmed firing schedules. I now want to try a slow cooling schedule. My kiln is a Cone Art and my controller is a Bartlett. I have the firing schedule that I want to apply and I have a simple example of how to program a firing schedule with the Bartlett - but I am confused as to how to use their "9999" cooling rate code. Their example shows using "9999" at the end of a sequence but I want to use it in the middle of a sequence. My Cone 6 Glaze Firing program that I want to use: 100 deg/hr to 200 deg 350 deg/hr to 2000 deg 150 deg/hr to 2185 deg hold 15 mins 500 deg/hr to 1900 deg *** 125 deg/hr to 1400 deg allow kiln to cool naturally to room temp *** It is this stage that I don't know how to actually enter the values into the Bartlett. The notes in the Firing Book and on Ceramics.org say "I program... kiln fro 9999 degF to 1900degF so that I don't get an error message if the kiln can't cool at that rate" Is this a typo? Is the person meaning they program a "RATE of 9999 DEG/HR" (rather than entering 500 deg/hr? If someone could help sort this out for me I would REALLY appreciate it. Take care, Liane
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