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Found 236 results

  1. Hi, newbie potter here, I'm having some issue with a brand new Rohde ecotop 60s kiln and I'm not sure if it's something normal or I had bad luck and received a bad kiln. I hope all the experienced people in this forum can help me out. I've just bough a new Rohde ecotop kiln (my first ever kiln) and after ONLY THREE FIRINGS the rope insulation on the outside of the barrel looks burned and the steel ring holding the lid is all stained from the heat. The lid doesn't sit fully on the brick walls letting heat escape, which caused the damage I think. As said I only fired 3 times at: 1000 C 1000 C 1230 C The Kiln is rated at 1320 C so all were well below the maximum. I'm attaching pictures I took after the third firing, these are all at room temperature after it's completely cooled down. Rohde says it's all fine but I feel they're just trying to avoid responsibility. They asked me to loosen the metal band round the lid and just press the bricks down. I've done that very carefully and the bricks have come down quite a bit but there's still a very visible gap. Also doing this caused some cracks on the lid bricks. In your experience are these things normal for such a new kiln? Or did I have bad luck receiving a bad kiln and I should try to send it back? Thank you for your help
  2. Looking for help and some explanation. I have the opportunity to buy a Duncan The Teacher model ES 820-4. I am very new to ceramics and need all the help I can get. I found what I believe is the manual for this kiln although the model number says “DA 820-4” instead of “ES”. It also says that the voltage is 208. We have 240 and were planning on wiring it’s own box but how can I make the 208 work? I’m also confused because in the photo of the kiln, the kiln sitter says 240v. How can the kiln be 208 and the sitter 240? I’m very confused and would appreciate any and all help.
  3. I recently received a kiln and several used molds that are in great shape. The kiln appears to be well cared for however I am unable to see if it is functional as my home does not have the proper electrical. I am interested in selling. Since I received the unit and accessories yesterday I have not been able to sort thru completely. I live in Scottsdale AZ and would be available for someone to come to my house to inspect. I do not have a truck so I can not meet. I am still doing research on the values of these items. I have included photos of the inventory and once it cools down a bit here in AZ; 112 deg F today, I will let you know more. So far there are molds for jars, animal shapes, jewerly, and much much more.
  4. I just got back into making pottery after 10+ years. I have an Evenheat kiln with a kiln sitter and fireright heat switch. Yesterday I wanted to run a bisque cycle. We had to have a new 240 line run because we've moved since the last time I used the kiln. Power is getting to the dials because the kiln sitter light comes on but the Heat Switch seems off. When cycling back and forth between timer and heating it fades in instead of lighting up and there is no clicking sound indicating the elements coming on, and no heat. I've changed the heat setting and turned the heat switch off and just tried to get heat manually. I'm going to check to make sure the voltage is getting to the kiln but after that where should I begin looking?
  5. Hi! Does anyone have experience with Evenheat kilns? I am looking to buy my first kiln, is this in super bad condition (I’m way new!) for the price? The seller is holding it for me. She said that the last time it was used was in December and it worked great. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/257974788856749/ thank you in advance for helping a newbie!
  6. Hi there, I've been a member for quite a while but this is my first time posting. Up until recently I was in a communal studio but I am more than likely getting my own space in July. I've been shopping around for kilns but I'm having a hard time making up my mind. First of all I'm not sure if I should get a L&L or a Skutt (I will be buying it brand new). Secondly I'm having a hard time decided on the size. I'm not the tallest person and also have some lower back problems occasionally so I was thinking of getting a short model (Skutt KMT 1022 or 1218, or L&L e28s). Mostly looking for a kiln between 7-8 cubic feet as I will be doing a lot of production. My question with the wider shorter kilns, does it have a harder time reaching temperature due to the width? Also is it worth it getting the 3" brick? I will be firing to cone 5. I've only worked with a Skutt KM1027 which I like a lot but I'm afraid the height might bother me in the long run. And one last questions regarding the touchscreen, I really like the way the Skutt KMT's look and I'm unsure about the Genesis Touchscreen Controller. Thanks in advance for any opinions or experiences! Ekua
  7. Background: I made oval earrings (oval shape with large oval cutout so they are more like an oval outline) (15 pairs) on the claybody Highwater Clays Little Loafers (Cone 6). I painted designs on them with Amaco underglazes. The tops of each have small holes (i'll put metal hoops them after they are all done). They have already been bisque fired. I also have three other pairs of earrings that have only small earrings. Goal: Now, I want to put a clear glaze on them and glaze fire them. Ideally, in one batch. What I have in my possession vs. what I could acquire. The clear glaze I already have is a Zinc-free Cone 5/6 glaze. However, I can get a different, low-fire clear glaze. I also have a bead rack I borrowed with some long rods that are too large for the small holes in the earrings. My question: I found this image online, in which someone made oval earrings very similar to mine and a bead rack with hooks. It appears they used kiln safe metal wire to make hooks. The hooks appear to be large but small enough to fit through small holes. I wonder what your opinion of that is. I'd have to figure out what gauge to get. A ceramicist nearby has a jewelry tree so I may take the bisquefired earrings over to her and try to see how they fit on her jewelry tree and that might tell me approx. the size wire those jewelry trees use and I could get the same gaugue, bend and make hooks out of them to hang on the rods. One potter has said this ^ should work if I order some nichrome or kanthal wire. They also think it would be fine to do with the Cone 6 clear glaze I have and would be fine to fire up to a Cone 6 (although we actually do Cone 5). Part of me wonders if I should just get low-fire glaze, try the hook thing, and low fire it to be on the safer side. Other solution: As I typed this, I just realized a possible other solution…1.) get a low fire brushable glaze, 2.) simply put rods through the large oval (taking care not to glaze the inside edge or anywhere where the rod will rest) instead of worrying about the small circles at all. It’s not as ideal but would probably hardly be noticeable. 3.) Fire at a low temp 04-06. That might work for the oval earrings but not for the winking eyes.
  8. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  9. I bought a used Cress FX-1414P semi automatic electric kiln so that I can fire pieces at home due to quarantine. The previous owner did not have a manual and Cress is giving me minimal info and do not have manuals for this old of a model nor are there any available online. The kiln works. I 'm ready to do my first fire but would like to know if anyone has this kiln or one similar to it and any resources I can look at to better understand how to set it and operate it according to type of clay and cone. Any info would help! Though this is not my first time operating a kiln, this is my first personal kiln. Thanks! - Cristina
  10. I got this old Paragon kiln for free from someone who had it sitting in their garage for a long time (15 years maybe?). I'm pretty amateur, but I'd love to get more into ceramics and firing/how to upkeep my equipment and safely. Could someone tell me how to go about making sure this kiln is safe for use? The wires look pretty good as far as I can tell, but I'd have no idea if they weren't apart from if they were rusted. There's cracking in the bricks, will that be a problem? (I haven't even cleaned it at all yet and sorry that the photos are blurry)
  11. Hello! I’m a newbie on this forum; happy to have finally made an account! I have been doing ceramics for a couple years and am finally taking the plunge for my first kiln. I found a used Skutt SK 818 on craigslist, one owner who bought it new. Model: 818-240 , Phase 1, 240V, 40 Amps, Cone 10 It fits the bill specs wise for me, albeit a little smaller than I would have preferred but still good. The only concern i have is it looks like the bricks on the inside look kind of rough. Drip stains on the floor and walls but the coils look really straight up at least as far as i can see on the photos. Haven’t gone to see it in person yet since they are about 3 hrs away and wanna make sure its a good deal before I do. Should i be concerned with the look of the bricks? Pictures below! Price is $475 with stand and other accessories. Thank you in advance for all for your knowledge and advice! Cynthia
  12. Hello everyone, I've started dabbling in pottery about three years ago, making bonsai pots. This fits with another hobby of mine, you can guess which :). Point is, after firing my works with some acquaintances, I've decided that my own kiln is a must in order to really progress in the craft. The problem is that I my backwater location the chances of buying a second hand one are next to none, and I can't really justify spending almost $2500 for a new one. So I came up with the idea of actually building one from scratch. Yes, I know it's hard, yes, I know it can be dangerous but I'm trying to be as smart about it as I can and mitigate all the risks as much as I can. I would really appreciate it if you ladies and gentlemen would be willing to part with some knowledge to help me have the best possible outcome for this project. Now for the tech specs: In order to fit the nature of my work, I would need a 50x40x30cm interior. (19.7x15.7x12 inches) The temps needed would be around 1240°C (2264°F) The power I can get away with as a household consumer in my location is 230V 16A ~ 3600W This takes me to my first point: As far as internet wisdom goes, the Wattage needed for a pottery kiln is 0.6W/cm2 which would place me at a needed Wattage of around 5600W. Waaaay above what I can provide. But then I read specs for kilns produced on Germany like Nabertherm that for a 60L pottery kiln with a top temperature of 1300°C produce single phase 230V 16A models, which makes me believe I can do it. I'm assuming that I'll need to go with more insulation and longer firing times, but it's doable. Is that accurate? Next up, elements: luckily I have a provider for Kanthal A1 wire near me and prices are decent. Would 1.6mm 1380°C max, 0,721 Ohm/m be suitable? With this diameter I seem to be able to juggle the resistance, wattage, length and placement of elements as close to optimal, with 2 elements running in parallel. Thirdly the most amusing topic... Well not amusing but maybe the most complex. The controller. Being in IT i'm a sucker for gadgets. Usually buying them, true, but this time I'm thinking about building :). I saw a lot of projects on the web with Raspberry Pi kiln controllers. The features they provide, the adaptability and the connectivity of the systems sounds amazing. Question is: does anyone fire with something like this? How does it compare to commercial controllers that are super expensive and in the stone age as far as features go. Are they worth the trouble? An example project that stuck with me is below. But there are many more Thanks for the help, and looking forward to chatting with you. Mihai
  13. I am new to owning a kiln. I have enough work to fire my first bisque, and am just waiting for a few more pieces to dry enough. My question is, do any of you ever fire your kiln less than full? I would love to run some smaller tests, but I hear it's not a good practice. Would love to hear what others think.
  14. Hello all! Been following the community for the last few months and I have a question that I'd like to get your input on. I've been doing ceramics as a hobby and while I have access to a large potter's studio nearby where I can get larger pieces fired I'd like to buy my first kiln that I can use in my work studio for small batch pieces. I like to explore both handbuilding/carving/throwing for tablewares for personal use and make small non-functional sculptures. As my studio is a rental, I can't really install 240v circuits which limits to a few options. What I'm working with is a dedicated 120V, 30 amps circuit for the kiln. I'm currently debating between Olympic MAS 129E and Skutt KM 614-3. I like the Olympic over the Skutt because it can fire up to cone 8 (vs. cone 6 for Skutt) whereas I like the Skutt because it's slightly bigger (0.8 cf vs 0.56 cf) and I've been reading that Skutt in general has better user experience over Olympic. If you were to choose between the two, which one would you choose? What matters more? Thank you so much!
  15. Hey guys, so tomorrow I'll make a kiln with oil can (yes it's already washed) and pit firing, I'm trying to post a pic of it but the forum sucks at uploading it, so I'll try to explain: The idea is to dig a hole on the ground where I'm going to put the fire (wood and sawdust, and yes, there's room for the oxygen to get in), then I'll put a grill over it where pieces are going to be placed, I'll also put sawdust on them with some wood, then the oil can will be put over them to isolate the heat. That's my idea, what do you guys think? Will it work? Also, there's a hole on the top of the can with about 10cm diameter, do you think I should close it or not? Thanks. *forgot to say that it's to bisquefire pieces
  16. I have been trying to be scientific about arranging my firing schedule in a small electric kiln with a controller. I understand the concept of heatwork and use cones on all shelves in my kiln to monitor results. I soak at top temperature and fire down so want to compensate for the additional heatwork these procedures involve when I set the top temperature on my controller. I understood that this could be done by looking at the area under a graph of total heatwork, but having compared theoretical models using the Orton cone firing tables, if this is indeed the case, I must be missing something. The following example uses °C, as I am in the UK, and I am referring to the Orton theoretical temperature values. 1. In the Orton table Cone 7 is reached at 1237°C when firing at 60°C /hr, if this is a straight ramp, this would take 20.3hrs, assuming a starting room temp of 17°C ((1237-17)/60). If the x-axis is time and the y-axis temperature, the area under the graph is a triangle and can be calculated as (1237 x 20.3)/2 = 12,555 2. When firing at 150°C/hr cone 7 is reached at 1255°C. As a straight ramp this would take 8.25hrs ((1255-17)/150). Then the area under the graph is also a triangle calculated as (1255x8.25)/2 = 5179 SO, these areas which are supposed to represent total heatwork to achieve cone 7 are not the same. I am clearly missing something here. Can anyone help please. Thank you
  17. Since March, I haven't been able to fire any of my work because my school is closed, and that's where the kiln I use is. I was lucky enough to be able to bring a wheel home with me and I've been using it every day. So the consequence is that I have an abundance of unfired pottery. I've searched everywhere for an open studio or someone who might let me use their home kiln, but nothing came up. I've considered buying a kiln of my own but I have nowhere near enough money and no source of income right now. Does anyone have ANY suggestions? Please help haha I'm losing my mind!
  18. Hi Guys, I have a small test kiln from paragon that has one peep hole and no vent. Everyone that I have contacted says that small test kilns don't need to be vented, just prop the lid open for the first few hours of firing and then close it. I have not had any success with this. I tried keeping it propped open until it reaches 1400 degrees, however it never reaches that temperature probably because the heat is escaping. It's mainly affecting my red glazes right now, however all of my glazes come out very dark and the red ones look burnt and brown ALL the time. After doing a lot of research, I can only guess that its because there isn't proper ventilation happening inside of the kiln. Is there a way that I can vent the kiln myself? I can't really afford an actual venting system right now, and I don't even know if those would work on my kiln because it's so small. Does anyone have any recommendations?
  19. Hi, My wife managed to twist and snap this! Can anyone tell me what it called exactly as I cant seem to find replacements on t'interweb. If anyone has any surefire (sic) ways of repairing it, then that would be helpful too. It is to sit in the top vent hole of a Cromartie portable kiln (Hobbytech 40) and have a thermocouple through it (trying to build a Raspberry Pi controller). Cheers Andy
  20. Hi all, I am trying to buy a versatile kiln for small projects at home, and the roderveld pyramid kiln with the gas and wood firing bases seems like a good choice for bisque, raku and stoneware glaze firing with the versatility to give me a variety of effects. The only problem is that I can't find any references from anyone who has ever used one, and it's a load of money to spend on something without having any idea whether it will do all the things I want (basically I don't have unlimited space so I want a kiln that can do as much as possible, I want to try a variety of techniques, and I don't really want to fire an electric kiln). Can anyone tell me if they have used one and if it's a good piece of kit? Thanks
  21. I have a question regarding some theory I read in the text The Kiln Book. On page 78 of the 4th Edition, it states that: "At the point where the exit flues enter the chimney, they should be restricted so that the chimney cross section is larger than this flue area" In the diagram (3-11) beneath this, it shows decreasing the point of entry to the chimney by 25% (from 4 bricks to 3), coming from the kiln exit flue. What's the thought behind this? I'm happy to trust my elders, but I'd also like to know what the theory is. I'm curious how this decrease affects the firing, vs keeping the same area of flow in the inlet flue>exit flue>chimney entry>chimney. As I'm building a chimney coming up in the next couple weeks, I'd love to figure this out. I can taper in the walls of the exit flue to the entry point of the chimney, which would accelerate flow heading into the chimney (while also creating slight backpressure?), which would then open back up to the full area of the chimney as it rises. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  22. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  23. Hello everyone, I have bought a second-hand electric Rohde 5024 Kiln (230V) and a TR 305 controller. I have done only 2 biscuit firing at 950C and noticed the pieces were almost vitrified; our mocal clay is rich in iron oxide. I recently did a slow glaze firing at 900C and my work melted down, some kiln shelves are distorted and even broken by the heat. The kiln electric plug is stick to the wall socket.Do you have an idea of what has happened? The whole situation is devastating as I live in West Africa and do not have potters, technicians or manufacturers who know about electric kilns. I have contacted the manufacturer and they said they could not help. I am not familiar with kilns and hope someone could help with the matter.Thank you so much in advance
  24. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
  25. Hi, I am new to ceramic glazing. Are there any methods that can duplicate fire-based glazing on ceramics? I work at home, so i do not have access to kiln. I have read there are oven-based glazes and non-fire based glaze. How effective are they in terms of the glaze (will it be similar to fire glazed plate)? Thank You.
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