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Found 251 results

  1. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  2. Long time listener, first time caller here. I love the Turquoise Matte glaze from Coyote, but it isn't food safe. If I used a food safe glaze on the body of the mug could I still use the matte glaze on the handle or should I keep all glaze on the mug food safe?
  3. I’m looking for a good stable cone 6 crawl for use with Mason stains. The crawls with Mag Carb and Nepheline Syenite tend to burn out some colours at cone 6. Thinking that some Frit 3124 substituted for some of the Feldspar might do it but any pointers would be appreciated.
  4. Hi, I am new to ceramic glazing. Are there any methods that can duplicate fire-based glazing on ceramics? I work at home, so i do not have access to kiln. I have read there are oven-based glazes and non-fire based glaze. How effective are they in terms of the glaze (will it be similar to fire glazed plate)? Thank You.
  5. Newbie here. I started in November and have fired my kiln four times (2 bisque, two glaze) with pleasing results. I use Amaco Stoneware Clay 38. Typically I fire it to cone 7 (I was shooting for cone 6, but my kiln fires hot). Recently I found this info connected to the clay I buy: "Bisque fire to Cone 04 (1971°F, 1077°C). The firing range is Cone 5–10 (2205°–2381°F), and the recommended glaze firing is Cone 10 (2381°F). At Cone 5 (2205°F), shrinkage is 13% and absorption is 7%. At Cone 10 (2381°F), shrinkage is 15%, absorption is 1.4%, and the clay fires white in oxidation and gray in reduction, both delicately peppered with darker gray spots." So my question is this: What does "recommended" mean to the fired pieces I've already made? Should I change my firing range to high, rather than mid level? What about the cone 6 glazes I've been using? If I begin to fire at cone 10, should I still use the Amaco cone 6 glazes? What does cone 6 vs cone 10 mean in terms of glaze usage? ...and is it even necessary to change courses? TIA
  6. I'm looking for some commercial glazes that show up nice and bright on Laguna's electric brown clay body.. light greens or blues, maybe even some pastel pinks or purples? Any suggestions? I've got enough options for darker, more natural looking glazes but want to expand to something lighter, brighter, cheerier...
  7. I have been wandering from years ,talked with many pottery experts but haven't got anything closest to yohem tenmoku glaze recipe, So is there anyone who can help me out to figure it how these wonderful bowls are done .
  8. Hey I have tried to paint already glazed tiles with ceramic paint( it's paint for hobby ex.pebeo paint for ceramics and porcelain) and bake it in 250C. The result is ok but not secure for using these tiles on a bathroom or a kitchen ( the paint will faint after a while without glaze). Would you suggest me to use glazed paintings instead? What’s your experience with them?
  9. Hey everybody! Brand new member but seasoned artist (to an extent). I have a very specific thought/question in mind that I cannot for the life of me find the answer to on google. I'm wanting to use some sort of high silica and/or high flux glaze to intentionally pool INSIDE the bottom of a bowl to make a sort of clear water effect. Would Shaner clear do just fine? or should I alter the recipe of some other clear glaze? Mix a whole new one? How thick can I make the glaze before it doesn't come out right? For best results should I pour it in layers or all at once? I fire at ^10 so high fire glazes is what I'm talking about. I've seen it done with crystallines but never just a standard low craze clear. Let me know what you got!
  10. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  11. Hello! I’ve heard that you can fire greenware with glaze up to cone 6 in one go- ive never done it myself though. Is this something that actually safe for the pottery? Do I need to do it in a specific way? Fire in a specific way? Any input would be much appreciated!
  12. Hi ! I am so glad I found this forum. I am trying to kick start a ceramic club. Here at our facility we have our Kiln room that is fully equipped, completed with endless amount of supplies. I really hit the mother load, however this room has not been utilized in ten(10) years or so. We have EVERYTHING, but nothing has an expiration date. I've been into ceramics since high school, unfortunately this is just something I am not familiar with. Most of our supplies are either Mayco or Duncan Bisque, I might call customer service to check with them about their under glazes, glazes, paints and such. But if you have any tips, advice on anything that might help. We have our kiln that is practically brand new it just needs love. Also does anyone know if porcelain or earthenware that has been here that long is still good to use and if so how to give it life. I know this is a lot, any help is welcomed thank you in advanced
  13. I fired a sculpture using 2 coats of low fire O with one coat of A on top. The results where muddy. I would like to refire it. It turned out brown when it should have had more turquoise. What would happen if I put a thick coat of O 66 on top?
  14. Hi, I am a VERY amateur artist but I like to experiment with clay and sculpting. I recently used Sculpey oven-bake clay to create a bowl (flat at the bottom, more like a mug without handles haha). I applied 2 coats of Sculpey gloss glaze all over. It was pretty successful so I’m now inspired to make some mini teacups! My bowl is waterproof due to the glaze, but would hot water ruin the teacups/glaze in any way? Thank you so much!
  15. Has anyone tested Spectrum's new Metallic Gold Rain? I would like to try it on a sculpture but need to pay shipping to test. I assume it doesn't actually look like the promotional test tile- but I'm looking for something stunning!! Thanks!!
  16. I have two pieces and am applying underglaze on top of glaze. Will it work? First piece is Laguna Ward's Red Cone 06 earthenware with cone 06 clear glaze (already fired.) Trying to fix something, so I added some underglaze and plan to add more cone 06 clear glaze. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze, one for the additional clear glaze? Second piece: Laguna White B-Mix Cone 10 with cone 6 clear glaze (already fired.) Again, trying to fix something, so I added underglaze and plan to add Cone 6 clear glaze to the new underglazed bits. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze (maybe at low-fire 06 level) and then high-fire cone 6 for the clear glaze? Thank you for your thoughts. Susan
  17. Recently tried to make this glaze (snowflake #4) but it turned out very weird and matte and almost chalky
  18. Looking for a recipe similar to this one, from an article by Norm Stuart. I downloaded the files but they didn't contain the recipe for this image. I've been searching far and wide for textured glazes for nearly a year. I have tested marilee's lava, pinnel, John's beads, sprayed on engobe, etc. If anyone has a technique or recipe that would yield the texture of this photo, PLEASE share. I have dozens of bisqueware waiting to get enveloped in sweet sweet texture
  19. Does anyone have a simple clear gloss recipe that you love for cone 6 ox suitable for clear and color? Simple, stable and preferably cheap. Same for matte surface. Prefer a soft satin matte, not too dry. Thanks!
  20. A friend of mine and I were having a discussion about my horsehair raku pottery and how much he liked my work. He told me he had his folks' ashes in cardboard boxes on a shelf in his garage and was wondering if I'd be interested in making a couple of horsehair Raku urns for him...incorporating some of the ashes in or on the finished piece. I can't see where or how I'd be able to put the ashes ON the finished piece but thought that it might be possible to incorporate the ashes into the clay body itself, either wedging the ash into the clay or possibly pressing the ashes into the surface of the wet jars before drying and firing the pieces. On another tack, he was wondering if it would be possible to mix some of the ashes into a glaze and firing the pieces that way. Since ash glazes tend to run when fired, he suggested glazing the bottom of the pots and firing them upside down so the drips would run UP the pot when sitting right side up. (This suggestion is something I plan to experiment with in my regular pottery work...) I don't have enough experience with clay and glaze chemistry to even have an idea of how to go about this and would appreciate any suggestions that might help with this project. In the research that I've started I found that the basic composition of human ash is as follows with the percentages of the primary components. Anything below .01% is not included: Phosphate 47.5% Calcium 25.3% Sulfate (Sulphate) 11.00% Potassium 3.69% Sodium 1.12% Chloride 1.00% Silica 0.9% Aluminum Oxide 0.72% Magnesium 0.418% Thanks, JohnnyK
  21. Hi! I’ve recently been doing a lot of experiments with clay deposits I’ve found as well as other found materials used in clay or glazed. I’ve been doing a lot of testing with wedging a lot of coarse granite into my clay. It makes it rough to throw with but my hands are tough enough it doesn’t bother me. I’ve usually been applying a found quartz and wood ash glaze that I’ve formulated to these pieces at cone 6 (lots of GB). The glaze gives a nice amber finish and seems to be helping the granite flux as it runs a bit giving nice variation, colour, and texture. My current test are going to include wedging the granite into a clay I found that can be fired up to cone 6 and I’m excited for these results. Does anyone have any tips regarding granite being added to clay, good glaze combos with found rough granite filled textures, other good experiments with found materials, etc?? Thanks! Matt
  22. I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding saggar firing. I'd really love to try it, but here's the thing. From what I've read on internet saggar can't be used on functional ware. I've thrown a tall lidded pot and a bud vase/oil holder and I think they both would look really great with the effects of saggar. My question is - having been thrown in stoneware, bisqued to 960 deg C, how would glazing on the inside be affected by saggar firing. I know if I leave unglazed the pot can be used to store spaghetti etc ie. non porous items but the oil pot would not be food safe. If I glaze with earthenware glaze and fire to about 1100 (electric kiln) what's the possibility of the saggar affecting the inside? (my idea is to glaze and saggar fire at the same time) Or should I glaze fire with stoneware glaze to 1200 first? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  23. Can a glaze expert answer this? What are the crystals in those commercial glazes? I want to experiment with my own, but I don't know where to begin. After rinsing the crystals in the commercial glazes, they appear to be broken glass, but surely that's not it. Can someone illuminate this for me? I'm a novice at making my own glazes... Thank you!
  24. Hello, I’m new to ceramics and have been working with some mid-fire porcelain clay as well as white earthenware clay. I made several hundred small jewellery pieces from both clays and had them bisque fired at a local kiln service. Unfortunately they combined all my work together and now I don’t know which is porcelain and which is white earthenware, soI don’t know which clear glaze to use on which piece. Might anyone be able to give me some advice about what I could do? Are these pieces salvagable or bound for the bin?
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