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Found 8 results

  1. I'm always very curious to know more about this flue exit which is along the kiln as a channel in the ground. I do not know how to name it and also never found information about it. Would anyone know how to name it? It seems to be very common among Japanese industrial downdraft kilns. And looks very interesting to the draft. Sorry for poor English.
  2. I'm beginning a kiln conversion/update project and thought I would create a thread here for those interested, and to get feedback as I go along. I have access to a late 1950's Alpine kiln, and now have a place to fire it. It's been sitting for a long time, but I believe will be perfect with a little time and TLC. All the bones are solid, and other than some rust on the exterior, I think it will work great (estimated 12-14 cubic feet). My primary interest is having it as a cone 10 reduction kiln, specifically to experiment with shinos. The kiln was originally designed as an updraft kiln, two forced air burners entering low on either side of the front next to the door. As I've read these kilns could be hard to fire evenly, I'm converting it into a downdraft kiln with floor fire burner placement. Ill plug up the original vents on top and need to build an exit flue and chimney behind the kiln. I've attached my designs for what I propose. At this point trying to decide between MR-750 and MR-100 Venturi burners (4 total firing on Natural Gas). Would love to hear from you if you have any positive suggestions. Thanks and I'll keep you posted as it unfolds.
  3. I am struggling to control the heat rise of my gas downdraft - it gets too hot too quickly! I'm test firing empty (I've put in all the kiln shelves) to learn how to control temperature. I'm trying to emulate a slow bisque as I will be firing large, thick sculptural pieces. I'd like to control heat rise to 20 - 30 deg. C per hour, particularly for the first 100 deg. The slowest I've managed is 200 deg. C in 30 minutes! This is with one burner lit, at it's very lowest setting (the flame is JUST clearing the port inside). The top of the kiln heats really quickly and after 30 mins., the top kiln shelves are too hot to touch, but the bottom shelf / false floor is just comfortably warm. I've tried different damper settings to no avail. I'm thinking that there is insufficient draw to pull heat down throughout the chamber. And maybe that my burners are just too powerful for a slow bisque? My next thought is to heat the stack somehow - maybe put a blowtorch in the damper slot to heat the flue air and create some draw. And/or look for a smaller burner that I can use for early stage heating (something like a domestic gas burner that can run at a lower flame/heat setting). I'd REALLY appreciate any feedback/suggestions anyone can offer. Thanks! P.S. It's a converted electric, approx. 8.5 cubic feet. Flue area is 6x6 inches narrowing to a 6 inch diam. pipe. The kiln is fired by 2 venturi burners, using LPG (propane), and the flue outlet matches the area of the burner inlets (as per Olsen).
  4. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A natural gas fired downdraft soda kiln constructed at a workshop I gave at the Harvard University Ceramics Program.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  5. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane fired gas kiln with a hinged door constructed at the Silvermine Art School in CT.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  6. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    And example of one page of gas kiln plans.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  7. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A rear-fired natural gas downdraft kiln.

    © John Baymore - all rights reserved

  8. Has anyone found a suitable replacement motor for Skutt's Envirovent 2? I realize Skutt sells replacements, but was hoping for something less expensive and easily swapped with the old motor. Thanks! Regards, No Draft
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