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Showing results for tags 'Clay'.
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Hello, so I came across this really cool table. The artist says its made from clay and it inspired me to make my own sculptural table!(image linked below) ... I was wondering if someone with more experience than me can recommend what I use/ how to build the form? I've only used foam and magic clay over but I'm guessing this won't be sturdy enough? I'm also thinking air dry clay as I won't be able to find a kiln big enough! Also does anyone know how I can add a glass table top securely onto my sculpture! https://www.instagram.com/p/CKxdlTjnBBg/?utm_medium=copy_link -
4 BUNNIES 5 DAYS OLD,EYES STILL CLOSED
BARAKE SCULPTOR posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
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4 BUNNIES 5 DAYS OLD,EYES STILL CLOSED
BARAKE SCULPTOR posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: SCULPTOR
AN UNFIRED SCULPTURE FOR A RESIN AND BRONZE CAST. A BURST OF LIFE,BUNNIES GROW FAST,BUT ARE SO DEPENDALBE ON EACH OTHER FOR WARMTH AND PROTECTION.THEY OPEN THEIR EYES AROUND 10 DAYS ! H 12CM X L 20CM X W 14CM.© Barake Sculptor
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I am an experienced potter trying to find the right porcelain for my work. As of late I have been using cone 6 Laguna 15 because it is super white and super vitreous. Both of these things are important to me because I leave much of the exterior of my pots unglazed, so the porcelain needs to look very white and not stain from absorption over time. However this clay cracks like crazy!!! About 50% of the mugs I make have cracks around the handles. Also, lots of cracks along the bottoms. I have tried everything I can think of to prevent cracking- compressing like CRAZY, adding more clay to attachments, different glaze/clay combos, slower firings with holds... at this point I’m wondering if it’s me or if it’s just the clay. Has anyone else had this problem with Laguna 15? Has anyone found alternative super white, vitreous clays that don’t have cracking problems? This clay is so beautiful I wish I could figure this problem out, but a 50% loss rate is too high!
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From the album: SCULPTOR
CATS ARE ALWAYS TAKING NAPS,SOME EVEN WITH THEIR EYES OPEN, JUST IN CASE THEY HAVE TO RUN !! THIS CLAY SCULPTURE FOR A FUTURE BRONZE CAST. H 14CM X L 20CM© Barake Sculptor
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This pug mill has been cleaned and refurbished. The motor and transmission are sound and smooth. The cam assembly has been replaced as well as the air gauge and spider gear. The aluminum barrel that covers the auger has some minor pitting inside from age. I also have a short video I can send you of the pug mill running. Price: 1400.00 - can discuss shipping or delivery If you are interested in the pug mill please email me at Rscotthyde32@gmail.com -
I have a Randall Pottery Clay mixer I'd like to sell. I used it for years and everything works as it should. It has been sitting idle for several years now though and I need the space. All stainless interior, Has a 3HP 3Phase motor but can easily be run with a rotary phase converter. $500 obo Please email me with any questions or if you'd like pictures watsonfabrication@gmail.com Andrew -
Sorta beginner potter here! I recently came across some glaze I really wanted to try out! On the pint it says “apply to cone 04 bisque” but it fires to ^6...wouldn’t that melt my pottery into a puddle if my 04 earthenware clay was fired to ^6? Or is it referring to stoneware? What type of clay is best for ^6? Thanks in advance!
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I'm having a hard time finding a speckled clay without manganese. Anyone have any suggestions? I've searched the SDS sheets of Standard Ceramic, Laguna, Minnesota clay co and Amaco. The best I can tell is that Amaco may not use it in their 480M and 48M with grog but their SDS sheets don't seem to list all the ingredients so I'm skeptical. I can't tell from this list (below) what would be causing the blooming speckles? It also seems like they are only listing the top 5 ingredients by weight. Hydrated Aluminium Silicate 10-30% HYDROUS ALUMINIUM SILICATE 10-30% Fireclay 10-30% Hydrous Aluminium Silicate 10-30% silica 5-10% Anyone have any recommendations for a safer speckled clay? Or does that not exist? AMACO 480M STONEWARE W-O GROG - SDS4882.pdf -
I've been doing clay for a while now, so not a total noob, but have had my biggest disaster in clay to date. I have to admit I have not done a ton of hand building in the last few years, but have done enough to know the basics. I was hand-building some larger pieces. Scored and slip attachments to sides. (The same way I have scored for ten years without having issues.) I dried them very slowly under plastic, as I live in northern Arizona and things dry way too fast here. They were built with Laguna's Rod's Bod. I built each piece one at a time, during the day, so the slabs would be close to the same moisture. I throw out my slabs for each piece all at one time, by hand, and finish by rolling them between dow rods to get thickness relatively close. I kept extra slabs covered while working on the main piece. The only thing I can think that may have had an effect was that I let these dry in my garage. (We just moved into this house, so I consider this a variable I haven't dealt with before. In my last house, I dried my hand built items inside the house, and had no issues.) My garage is not heated, but attached to the house, so it never got below 45 degrees F. But the temperature ranged from probably 70 F in the day to 45 F at night. It never fell below freezing, though. Everything looked fine, but when they were bisque fired, most of the attachments fell off. (see photos) Could the range of drying temperature have cause my problem? I am racking my brain trying to figure this out. Please help...
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Hello, I am currently in the very early stages of organizing a ceramics conference that will be taking place sometime in the future most likely after a vaccine for COVID is developed. I am looking for any information, suggestions, or tips anyone can provide when it comes to preparing, organizing, implementing, attending, etc... a ceramics conference. All information is helpful. Looking forward to the help! Cheers,
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Please help me. I can’t figure out what stoneware clay my kiln could handle. I recently purchased the Jen Ken AF3C 11/9 Ceramic Kiln. It’s Max temp (as stated) is 2100* or about cone 3. The problem is I need a functional ceramic that’s not too porous so avoiding earthenware. Does anyone know what type of clay I can fire at the temp? Or am I coming at this problem the wrong way? Thank you so much for your help! -
Hello! I am fairly new to throwing and have just bought my own wheel, a Rhode HMT 500. First few weeks of throwing everything was greet, but now whenever I throw directly on the wheel head I am getting this black substance that feels gritty. It’s actually really abrasive and hurts my hands after a while. I thought it may be residue from some more heavily grogged clay I was throwing, but I have cleaned and cleaned the wheel head. On a totally clean wheel, if I wet my finger and let it run over the wheel head I can see and feel this black gritty substance build up. Does anyone know what it might be or how I can get rid of it?
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From the album: SCULPTOR
A SMALL STUDY FOR A BIGGER CLAY PIECE,THEN A MOULD FOR A BRONZE AND RESIN SCULPTURE!© Barake Sculptor
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From the album: SCULPTOR
A CLAY STUDY FOR A RESIN SERIES OR BRONZE, ABOUT LIFE SIZE SCULPTURE.THE ORIGINAL CLAY WILL THEN BE FIRED.© Barake Sculptor
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Im new to ceramics so sorry if I seem ignorant. If I were to make a solid sculpture, 2-6 inches thick, would I be able to get away without firing it? (I don’t have a kiln in my area) My idea is that I’d let it dry and then just paint it as it is. But would it be too fragile? Are there any adhesives or sprays I could use on it to keep it from breaking and make it stronger? It wouldn’t be moved around much. I'm using earthenware btw.
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Hi guys! I 've been learning to make ceramic plates for a while now, and I am looking for ways to keep track of my work and progress in a quantitive way. Have any of you done something like this? Which apps/softwares would you recommend to keep track of learnings and insights? Let me know. Thanks.
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Hi, I'm trying to get the elusive oxidation copper red with localized reduction glaze to work. Everywhere I look it suggests 600 mesh silicon carbide is necessary to get the localized reduction. The silicon carbide I have is 400 mesh. How can I increase the mesh of my silicon carbide?
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Cheers! I thank you very much if anyone can consult. I don't know why in the black or red ceramic paste (which I have high temperature), my faldespatico base enamels do not cover this clay. The enamels come out with bubbles.., although in white clay they work well for me. I understand that black clays contain ox iron and manganese.. -
From the album: SCULPTOR
A SMALL CLAY, 16CM H. USING WHAT´S AROUND,GETTING SOMETHING DONE. WE ALL THOUGHT THIS NIGHTMARE WOULD END MUCH SOONER.HOPE EVERYONE IS SAFE AND WELL.© Barake Sculptor
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From the album: SCULPTOR
DURING THIS LOCKDOWN QUARENTINE, USING MATERIALS I HAVE AROUND TO WORK WITH, KEEPING UP THE GOOD SPIRITS AND POSITIVE THINKING. I KNOW WHEN MON PETIT CHAT WAKES UP,ALL THIS BAD DREAM WILL BE PAST GONE. H 5cm x L 11cm x W 10cm© BARAKE SCULPTOR
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From the album: SCULPTOR
A busy mom trying to please them all !! -
Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particulates in a clay slip, eg grog or coarse inclusions? Do grogged slips exist? I was thinking that perhaps adding bentonite could help due to its thixotropy, but I am not sure. Any help from this very helpful forum in my self-learning endeavors would be much appreciated Best Joris The Netherlands
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