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Showing results for tags 'Clay'.
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I'm having a hard time finding a speckled clay without manganese. Anyone have any suggestions? I've searched the SDS sheets of Standard Ceramic, Laguna, Minnesota clay co and Amaco. The best I can tell is that Amaco may not use it in their 480M and 48M with grog but their SDS sheets don't seem to list all the ingredients so I'm skeptical. I can't tell from this list (below) what would be causing the blooming speckles? It also seems like they are only listing the top 5 ingredients by weight. Hydrated Aluminium Silicate 10-30% HYDROUS ALUMINIUM SILICATE 10-30% Fireclay 1 -
I've been doing clay for a while now, so not a total noob, but have had my biggest disaster in clay to date. I have to admit I have not done a ton of hand building in the last few years, but have done enough to know the basics. I was hand-building some larger pieces. Scored and slip attachments to sides. (The same way I have scored for ten years without having issues.) I dried them very slowly under plastic, as I live in northern Arizona and things dry way too fast here. They were built with Laguna's Rod's Bod. I built each piece one at a time, during the day, so the slabs would be
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Hello, I am currently in the very early stages of organizing a ceramics conference that will be taking place sometime in the future most likely after a vaccine for COVID is developed. I am looking for any information, suggestions, or tips anyone can provide when it comes to preparing, organizing, implementing, attending, etc... a ceramics conference. All information is helpful. Looking forward to the help! Cheers,
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Please help me. I can’t figure out what stoneware clay my kiln could handle. I recently purchased the Jen Ken AF3C 11/9 Ceramic Kiln. It’s Max temp (as stated) is 2100* or about cone 3. The problem is I need a functional ceramic that’s not too porous so avoiding earthenware. Does anyone know what type of clay I can fire at the temp? Or am I coming at this problem the wrong way? Thank you so much for your help! -
Hello! I am fairly new to throwing and have just bought my own wheel, a Rhode HMT 500. First few weeks of throwing everything was greet, but now whenever I throw directly on the wheel head I am getting this black substance that feels gritty. It’s actually really abrasive and hurts my hands after a while. I thought it may be residue from some more heavily grogged clay I was throwing, but I have cleaned and cleaned the wheel head. On a totally clean wheel, if I wet my finger and let it run over the wheel head I can see and feel this black gritty substance build up. Does anyone
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From the album: SCULPTOR
A SMALL STUDY FOR A BIGGER CLAY PIECE,THEN A MOULD FOR A BRONZE AND RESIN SCULPTURE!© Barake Sculptor
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From the album: SCULPTOR
A CLAY STUDY FOR A RESIN SERIES OR BRONZE, ABOUT LIFE SIZE SCULPTURE.THE ORIGINAL CLAY WILL THEN BE FIRED.© Barake Sculptor
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Im new to ceramics so sorry if I seem ignorant. If I were to make a solid sculpture, 2-6 inches thick, would I be able to get away without firing it? (I don’t have a kiln in my area) My idea is that I’d let it dry and then just paint it as it is. But would it be too fragile? Are there any adhesives or sprays I could use on it to keep it from breaking and make it stronger? It wouldn’t be moved around much. I'm using earthenware btw.
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Hi guys! I 've been learning to make ceramic plates for a while now, and I am looking for ways to keep track of my work and progress in a quantitive way. Have any of you done something like this? Which apps/softwares would you recommend to keep track of learnings and insights? Let me know. Thanks.
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Hi, I'm trying to get the elusive oxidation copper red with localized reduction glaze to work. Everywhere I look it suggests 600 mesh silicon carbide is necessary to get the localized reduction. The silicon carbide I have is 400 mesh. How can I increase the mesh of my silicon carbide?
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Cheers! I thank you very much if anyone can consult. I don't know why in the black or red ceramic paste (which I have high temperature), my faldespatico base enamels do not cover this clay. The enamels come out with bubbles.., although in white clay they work well for me. I understand that black clays contain ox iron and manganese.. -
From the album: SCULPTOR
A SMALL CLAY, 16CM H. USING WHAT´S AROUND,GETTING SOMETHING DONE. WE ALL THOUGHT THIS NIGHTMARE WOULD END MUCH SOONER.HOPE EVERYONE IS SAFE AND WELL.© Barake Sculptor
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Hello guys, I'm really new to this forum so I don't know if this is the correct place for the question. I live if Long island New York and I'm having trouble finding a ceramic supply store near this area either that I can drive there and pick up clay or glazes or have them shipped to me at a reasonable price (I saw some suppliers that charge almost double the price of clay in shipping). Thank you for your help. Best regards
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From the album: SCULPTOR
DURING THIS LOCKDOWN QUARENTINE, USING MATERIALS I HAVE AROUND TO WORK WITH, KEEPING UP THE GOOD SPIRITS AND POSITIVE THINKING. I KNOW WHEN MON PETIT CHAT WAKES UP,ALL THIS BAD DREAM WILL BE PAST GONE. H 5cm x L 11cm x W 10cm© BARAKE SCULPTOR
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I'm certain I'm not the first to ask this, but can't find any posts on it... Feel free to link me to the right thread.... I just got a dark clay and am also using a white clay. How do you organize your clays/throwing days to keep them and their dust/sediment/recycling separate? Thanks.
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From the album: SCULPTOR
A busy mom trying to please them all !! -
Hi folks, once again, no new questions in the pool, so I will muddle through with another QotW. . . . QotW: Do you use commercial products or do you mix your own? In my small studio, I could never imagine mixing my own clay bodies, it would just take up too much space. Much easier to just order what I want in clay from Standard Ceramics in Pittsburgh. Yet I do mix glazes, and slips. I try to stay away from most commercial products that way as the cost is easier for me to make my own. I have purchase some underglazes, and mason type stains to mix colors that are hard to reach with ^6 unle -
Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particu
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“The Clay Canvas” Sgraffito Workshop with Alissa Mittl Register Here May 24, 2020: 10:00am – 4:30pm * EARLY BIRD REGISTRATION THROUGH 3/24/2020 * $145.00 Early Bird Nonmembers (includes lunch) $115.00 Early Bird Members (includes lunch) $165.00 Nonmembers (includes lunch) $135.00 Members (includes lunch) In this one-day workshop, students will learn how clay can be treated as a two-dimensional canvas using sgraffito carving techniques. The term sgraffito originates from the Italian term graffiare meaning -
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Hi all, I have a question that has probably never been asked before: is clay-based cat litter usable as content for casting slip? I ask this because it's cheaper and I can buy it from a local store rather than order my usual clay online and have to pay an exorbitant delivery fee. I like to experiment so was going to make something small to see what would happen but I also thought I'd put the question out there in case anyone had actually tried this. Thanks in advance!
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Hello all, I'm wondering if any of you know if Sibelco clay bodies are carried domestically (North America)? I've got emails out to the company but have yet to hear back and internet searches aren't seeming to turn anything up. Also if anyone knows of a similar body to the Sibelco WMS 2002GG available from the usual suspects that would be super helpful. Thanks! -
kiln HOLLOW INSULATORS ID OVERFIRED PROBLEM
Vikash bhagat posted a topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Hi guys , We are INSULATORS manufacturer HOLLOW INSULATORS have these problems of ID OVERFIRED problem rest of all material is OK If we talk abouts shed(which is thin portion of INSULATORS ) is OK stem is OK but in ID facing OVERFIRED problem Top portion of ID approx..300mm is OK Bottom portion of ID approx ..300mm is OK But middle portion of ID which is 500-600mm is OVERFIRED How can be short out this problem If we talk about other material like bushing is OK in same kiln Note:- HOLLOW ITEM FIRED IS BOTH HANG AND WITHOUT HANG BUT FACING PROBLEM -
I wasn't sure what topic to put this under, but it's about clay. Sorry if this is a repeat subject. Our company recycles 100% of our clay that isn't considered to be contaminated. We have a reclaim system that one of our employees manages, but this person is moving on from the company in a few days. They get the clay to the right consistency and run it through the pug to be reused. The problem we are running into is that it's actually cheaper and simpler to order new clay than it is to manage this process and inventory. So here's the crazy idea that might upset some folks. What if we
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Hi! I’ve recently been doing a lot of experiments with clay deposits I’ve found as well as other found materials used in clay or glazed. I’ve been doing a lot of testing with wedging a lot of coarse granite into my clay. It makes it rough to throw with but my hands are tough enough it doesn’t bother me. I’ve usually been applying a found quartz and wood ash glaze that I’ve formulated to these pieces at cone 6 (lots of GB). The glaze gives a nice amber finish and seems to be helping the granite flux as it runs a bit giving nice variation, colour, and texture.- 5 replies
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