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Found 22 results

  1. Hi, I am using Flax Paper Clay Porcelain ES6000 to make some small flowers and the finished pieces are around 1cm thick at the fattest point. The issue I have is that I have no idea how to go about firing and glazing porcelain. Do I bisque fire porcelain? If yes what temperature should I fire to? Can I fire porcelain in the same firing as other clays (B17C Stoneware) ? Looking on the Scarva website it says the firing temperature is 1220ºC - 1280ºC but I am unsure as to what temperature the clay stops being able to absorb glaze? Thank you so much in advance!!
  2. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wo
  3. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  4. Hi Everyone! Hoping to get some tips on using Amaco bisque fix, before I use on some of my pieces. I know this can be great for sealing cracks, but the problem I have run into is that my stamp does not press into greenware well. I wish I had tried to fix with slip before firing, but I was working too quickly. I do not want to give up some of these pieces since this is just the bottom! And they otherwise look nice. My plan was to try using bisque fix to fill in the stamp impression, sand the piece, and paint over with white underglaze. Then I can ideally re-stamp with underglaze inst
  5. HI, I have a really long hairline crack in a sculpture that just came out of bisque fire :/ The crack is from the base to the neck, goes all the way through but very thin. Been doing research regarding Bisque fix, Mend it and paper clay. Looking for advise on which is better for hairline as cannot assure product completely fills the middle. Really want to glaze this to cone 6 without it separating even if I have to rebisque.,
  6. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day
  7. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  8. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructo
  9. Hi everyone, I have recently got an Uhlig U 500T kiln. I have never fired anything before and it gives me a really hard time to understand how to operate this one particularly, because there seems to be no resource or manual on the internet (the only thing that came with it is in German and kind of explaining how to use the controller tho). As far as I understood the slowest possible heating is to 500C in 5 hours. My pieces are quite thin and dry so I am hoping this is fine. Still, I am wondering is it really possible that this is the slowest option? My plan is for bisque
  10. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  11. I somehow managed to put on a 15 hour HOLD instead of a 15 hour delay on a bisque meant for cone 04. Any ideas as to what cone that actually hit? I’m so scared to open the kiln. Still cooling. It held around 1900° for 15 hours. Clay is cone 6.
  12. Hi all, I'm just wondering what the lowest acceptable bisque firing temperature would be - and why? I usually single-fire my pottery but occasionally I like to brush on and sponge off a watered down underglaze (so it clings to the texture) before glaze firing. So...could I technically bisque fire at a much lower temperature because all I need is a porous surface? Thank you in advance.
  13. I have a lot of different items my students made and for the first time I am working with the Velvet Underglazes from Amaco, they are now bonedry, I mean really bonedry! Can I stack underglazed pots in underglazed pots to be bisqued or will they fuse. Would it also fuse on the shelves if some of the underglaze is on the bottom of the pots. To be safe I have cleaned all the bottoms and it was quite tedious. I am ready for the first bisque fire and will post the before and after shortly.
  14. I have never done ceramics seriously but for my architecture course I am designing a pottery workshop. I've read up about bisque firing schedules, and there's mention of monitoring the kiln at regular intervals. If the low-heat warm up is happening overnight as I've seen recommended, does that mean you essentially sleep by the kiln as it were? Or would you be able to go home and sleep in your bed safe in the knowledge that things are as they should be? If it's any help, I will probably design around using an electric kiln. Basically I want to know if I would have to include a bed in
  15. Hello All, So I just completed my first bisque firing and took a quick peak at the top shelf (Temp is 250F). The witness cones are not what I expected. Left to right 05,06,07. Kiln was fired to cone 06 slow and took 12h 26 minutes to complete. Is it possible the 06 cone bent more because of the slow bisque? I expected the 06 to be slightly bent. The top shelf was high about 3" from the kiln lid. Also wondering if i didnt leave enough room perhaps. Although this doesn't sound likely to me
  16. So I have a tiny hairline crack after bisque and I was going to try the spooze recipe I found here to fix it. 1/3 parts dry clay powdered....any body...preferably the one you are using with no grog 1/3 parts heavy karo syrup 1/3 parts white distilled vinegar drop of hydrogen peroxide Should I be using dry powdered clay that has already been bisqued or does it matter? And I just bisque again after I apply it, correct? I have some of the Amaco bisque fix - and it works - but it fires so white, afraid it might not match Thanks in advance!
  17. Hello! I had a couple of pieces that, freakishly, dried just fine...evenly...even thickness...all around good slab pieces... cracked in the kiln! I fired at the correct temp and somehow this happened. I've read about magic mud...and I was under the impression that it could be used on bisque fired pieces. However, my instructor told me that it couldn't? I wanted to see what everyone thought?
  18. Hello I have recently acquired a small kiln for use at home (Hobbytech 40). It works and I’m happy with it for the most part, but when I have bisque fired plates, they crack during firing, down the middle to about halfway across the plate. This must be a fault when I’m making the items. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this so that I don’t waste efforts making anymore to be disappointed when they’re fired? I’ve not had this happen with plates I’ve made in my ceramic lessons. Some are wheel thrown, some are made from slabs. Clay bodies used are lavafleck stoneware,
  19. From the album: Ceramics Fall 2016

    Bisqued Sake set. This was glazed in tenmoku and I will grab photos of them later today. Since my work is fired in a classroom setting, all my cups were placed in different areas of the kiln, so each one looks slightly different.
  20. From the album: Tornado Pot Sketches and Progress Images

    For those who have been following along with the drama of making "F3 - The Wizard of Oz" tornado container, this second version survived the bisque firing and awaits detailing with underglaze and glazing...hopefully, a single glaze firing and perhaps a single decal firing. Read more about this project and projects by other artists in the Ceramic Arts Community Forum - "Community Challenge #2".
  21. From the album: What I am up to

    Same stuff diferent view.
  22. From the album: What I am up to

    Side view of the mug and bowls after the glaze has been applied. Now just a little cone six firing away from the finished product.
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