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Found 6 results

  1. Hello everyone, I have bought a second-hand electric Rohde 5024 Kiln (230V) and a TR 305 controller. I have done only 2 biscuit firing at 950C and noticed the pieces were almost vitrified; our mocal clay is rich in iron oxide. I recently did a slow glaze firing at 900C and my work melted down, some kiln shelves are distorted and even broken by the heat. The kiln electric plug is stick to the wall socket.Do you have an idea of what has happened? The whole situation is devastating as I live in West Africa and do not have potters, technicians or manufacturers who know ab
  2. The facility in which I am working is currently awaiting the prolonged install of a replacement gas reduction kiln. In the meantime they have been firing cone 10 oxidation in a Paragon Viking 28, single phase, with a max temp of 2350F. It is hard wired to what I've been told is the appropriate amperage. When I was brought on board the kiln was failing to reach cone 10 and giving the FTL (Fired Too Long) code. At that juncture when we opened up the switch box the top segment of elements were slightly brown, we tightened the brass bits and the pigtails, all the elements were testing okay, a
  3. I've been reading Clay and Glazes for the Potter by Daniel Rhodes as well as Mastering Cone 6 Glazes by Hesselberth. Reading these and watching my own firings got me to thinking... How long do thermocouples last? Mine has been fired 125 times. I think it's (I don't have my kiln log in front of me for exact numbers) 55 cone 04 slow bisque, 55 cone 6 slow glaze, 15 cone 05 fast glaze (transfers). And How do you know when your thermocouple is starting to have issues? In my last couple of firings I have had a couple of pieces develop pinholes. I'm trying to remedy this issue sinc
  4. Some advice please...... My thermocouple blew on my last glaze, so we had it replaced. I ran a glaze yesterday and the results are disasterous. My kiln does not have a programmer attached so I watch and set temperature and the other thingy manually. I fired to 1200oC watching the temp gauge and manually stopped at 1200oc with a 30min soak. Shut down the kiln, temp guage 0, the other thingy (heat ramp) to 0, switched the power off at the electrical connection (3 phase) and then went to bed. Went out at 5am to see the temp. Switched on at the plug and the temp indicated 500oC. I cou
  5. my new kiln has jusr been delivered, not out of the bubblewrap yet. However as my supplier was also squeezing in some underglaze I was waiting for , I took out a couple of little boxes from under the kiln. I had ordered a kiln with a Harco controller attached to the kiln. there was a choice of controller a Harco or SHi something. In one of the boxes there was a free standing, well it isn't attached, but 4 pronged plug Stafford controller... Now before I ring the dealer, does anyone know both to compare the quality for me? On the outside of the bubblewrap is the label...kiln with Stafford C
  6. I need to widen the hole for the thermocouple in my kiln, since I want to replace the old thermocouple with a thicker one (the original is 3mm in diameter, but local pottery supply place only has 13mm ones). Any advice on how to drill without chipping the brick or creating more than the minimum amount of dust? The existing hole in the metal jacket is large enough to accommodate the new thermocouple, so I don't need to drill through the jacket. Am I right that a slow drill speed is best? Should I wet the brick and drill from the inside out? My kiln is a 3.3 cubic foot toploader, so drilling
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