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  1. Hi ......I remember reading somewhere that one can use a clay body and then use “ porcelain slip “ over it . Is this feasible ? I use a stoneware that fires to bisque 980 and glaze goes to 1020 degs . I fire my Audrey Blackman porcelain to 950 bisque and glaze goes to 1240 degs . My question is could I use “ porcelain slip “ on my stoneware ? And is there something extra I should be adding too the porcelaine slip ? Thank you Nicky
  2. If someone could please help me by simplifying the differences for me between “ slip , engobes and underglazes “ I use both porcelain and stoneware . And fire in an electric kiln 1) Slip is used mixing same clay body with stain and water . And applied to leatherhard only . (what other are ingredients could be used in stains for different surface effects ?) 2) Engobes are used only on leatherhard (?) 3)Underglazes can be used both on leatherhard and bisque (?) . Thank you so much Nicky
  3. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wo
  4. Hi, I am extremely new to the ceramics community and I recently purchased an electric kiln. I have been making stoneware vases in the shape of bodies which in places are particularly thick (1.5 inches maybe at the base). I had left the greenware for about a week before attempting a bisque fire. I had previously fired bowls in this kiln (cone 05) and none had cracked or had any issues. Unfortunately when I came to open up my kiln filled with these vases many of them had either cracked in linear type chips or seemingly exploded completely (small shards shattered around). I have r
  5. Hi, I have a question about the compressive strength of porcelain vs stoneware, if both clays are modelled with the same thickness and are both cone 6 clays. Which one would be stronger or better to use for large (4-5ft) sculptures? Thanks, Callum
  6. Hi I want to attempt to make profile moulds for a jigger jolly as I'm a novice and don't have the skill to throw by hand. My question relates to the final thickness of stoneware? I'm trying to straddle the line between durability and aesthetics. Again I'm referring to final thickness recommendations out of the kiln. I will infer a 10 to 12% allowance for shrinkage. I figure this is one of those how longs a piece of string sort of questions, but I guess I could get a roundabout answer from consensus or the average. Thanks
  7. I purchased a beautiful mug just recently and I am trying to figure out the artists name but I am having trouble. It looks to be Hcbie Ltcbie Locbie Hobie .... I have done an image search and can't seem to find anything! https://imgur.com/5blvEpN https://imgur.com/NidHIOW
  8. Hi all, I just joined your lovely community. And I was wondering if someone could advise me on making my first white slip. I've been trowing some stoneware pots and I would like to decorate the inside with white slip. I have a pack of 25kg of this deflocculated porcelain dust clay in my studio: http://www.vdiez.com/catalogo/porcelana-sa-2.html?lang=en and when I asked advice to salesman I was told I could just add water and apply it directly on the stoneware. Is this true? I know that porcelain has a different shrinking percentage that stoneware, therefore I'm a bit confused. Can a
  9. From the album: July 2019

    Copper & cobalt oxide glazes applied to bisque fired (950oC) pieces. Fired in a dustbin raku kiln at recent kiln building workshop. (1000oC) then plunged into sawdust to reduce.
  10. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  11. I took ceramic classes in college and loved it. I quickly became good on the wheel and that is my primary focus, however I also sculpt. I had the pleasure of working with multiple different clays. I primarily used stoneware and porcelain but occasionally earthenware as well. The stoneware I fired at cone 10 and 6 and porcelain at cone 10. I would consider myself a beginner as far as mixing the clays because I never had to do it and all the clay was made for us. I would like to mix my own clay bodies at home because I assume it’s cheaper than buying pre-made clay and I also will have
  12. Hello, I became a member today, because I'm looking for some info. A couple days ago, I bought some second-hand plates under the brand "Faria & Bento". After a thorough search on Google, I just gathered the following info: The plates are handcrafted and made in a small historical village in Portugal. There are no contact info with the ceramics workshop, so I can't retrieve anything further regarding the plates. Also, the search results are pointing to auctions or eBay sellers. I would be grateful if anyone could give me more info on the brand, the historical background of it, eve
  13. I have been experimenting with gold lustre over the past six months - simply applying it over a stoneware clear glaze. I accidentally applied it to an unglazed surface on one of my pieces but I really ended up enjoying the satin finish of the gold. I tried to replicate this finish but the gold flaked! I mean...I know all gold lustre instructions say to apply to a glazed body, but I figured it looked so good on my accident then perhaps I could replicate it, right? Wrong! I am looking for either a satin or matte clear glaze to apply onto a porcelain body so that the lustre can be have more
  14. Hi, I’m new to the world of clay so forgive me if this sounds like a silly question. I have a pot I’d like to refire (it’s gone through a cone 10 firing ) it did not have glaze, just a white clay only slip and a bit of oxides. I want to add more slip and oxides and refire but would it be okay to apply a clear glaze on top of an unfired slip?
  15. Hello everyone, I’m a working sculptor with 40 year’s experience using clay but am entirely new to firing. Could anyone advise me about the best programme for firing in an electric kiln for this sculpture? The construction is made from 1” (25mm) square solid pieces and the clay is Scarva Earthstone ES20 smooth textured and is stoneware. Fires bisque 1000 degrees c and stoneware at 1280 degrees c. My concern is that because of the open nature of the construction, it may warp and crack if the speed is wrong. It is approx 40cm long and 15cm wide. It should be completely dry by
  16. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy wh
  17. Hey guys...help! So I have been doing low fire work (jewelry) for years and have just ventured into mid fire work. My question is likely somewhat dumb but here goes. I purchased my first bit of cone 5-6 stoneware clay and had a question about temps. With my work that I have been doing in low fire, I bisque fire to cone 04 then glaze fire to 06. What temp do I bisque fire the stoneware? Not knowing any better, I bisque fired it to cone 5 and then glaze fired it to cone 5 and none of the glazes turned out to look like they were supposed to. Thanks in advance for the help.
  18. From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges

    Slab construction, stoneware with terra sigilata
  19. I have been having a strange issue with my Cone 6 Black Stoneware Clay from Standard (266). It gets these big cracking bubbles upon glaze firing. I bought this clay to marble with Porcelain (Standard 365) because it had a similar shrink rate. The marbled pieces came out SUPER bubbly, really horrible. I thought it was just poor clay preparation on my part because of the mixing of the two. However it has been happening with pots I make solely out of the Black Stoneware. I prepare this clay the same way I do all my other clay bodies and never really have this issue otherwise. Has anyone else had
  20. From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges

    Hand built using Clayworks LGH Stoneware clay. Terra Sigillata finish

    © Linda Lees

  21. From the album: Curves and Crisp Edges

    Hand built using Clayworks LGH Stoneware clay. Terra Sigillata finish

    © Linda Lees

  22. Hi all, I'm hoping someone can give some technical tips on repairing my Cromartie Hobbycraft kiln with controller and which is not hard wired but runs off a 13 amp plug. It is a top loader. Bought as a used kiln, I have been using this quite happily for a number of years until recently where it has stopped reaching a stoneware glaze firing of 1240C. I have replaced the elements and ceramic insulators, checked and cleaned up all the connections and tightened the belts around the body and lid. I have also changed the electrical lead from a short one which fitted into a socket not on the main
  23. From the album: WIPs

    At least it turned out nearly flawless. Large 12" across, planter from a gritty brown stoneware with off-white slip painting under clear glaze. Formed inside an automotive oil pan with coils.

    © Ann Nielsen

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