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Found 16 results

  1. Hi, has anyone ever converted a woodworking lathe to make plaster models for casting? I'd like to try turning a few models in plaset, but reluctant to fork out £2.5k for the machinery. Curious to know if anyone has used a table-top woodworking lathe for this purpose and any tips on how to do it? Becca
  2. Hello. I have a hige problem with bubbles in my work. It is slipcasted porcelain in a closed mould. Does anyone know what the problem could be? The air shouldn't be trapped as there are enough holes in the highest places. The bubbles are inside and on top and bottom of the casting. I would really,really appreciate any help!! Anna
  3. Hello everyone, I am hopefully going to be embarking on a journey soon enough of selling some log cabins. I am hoping that I can figure out a way to make a mold of the design so that I will have an easier time producing them. Here is a LINK to some pictures of one. I am wondering if, with some modifications, a mold is able to be made of a complex shape such as this? The roof is separate and I would be making a separate mold for it. Are the amount of details added, such as the window panes and door frames too much detail for a mold master and would be better added afterward? The
  4. Hello, I'm no artist or sculptor but a classics graduate with a passion for Classical art and sculpture. I am in need of advice from professionals regarding a recently acquired a bust from a car boot sale. I purchased this for £16 and was hoping it might be possible to refurbish it for a Grey stone/marble look like the traditional classical sculptures and busts. I have taken this to an antique dealer who did not particularly care for it and appeared to want me gone knowing he would make no money from me. He believes the material is plaster as it was cold and sounds holl
  5. I am new to ceramics and have recently started teaching art is a school two days per week. The other art teacher is also not a ceramicist. The current practise in the school it to discard clay ‘waste’. This is loads of clay so I have been working on recycling. I have dried discarded clay and rehydrated it for over a fortnight in a large bucket and made two large plaster bats to dry the rehydrated ‘slip’. Two questions: 1. Despite having been cast five days the plaster bats feel slightly cold to the touch - does this indicate they are still drying and not ready to use? 2
  6. Greetings good people please help me. I am an apprentice potter who's master works almost exclusively in porcelain and I've stained her plaster wedging table with a completely different clay body. I don't know it's name but it's a red clay, much stiffer, which fires to cone 11 where her porcelain is fired to cone 6. Is there a way to clean the pigment out of the plaster, and if I can't is there a risk it will contaminate her white clay in the future, will the pigment dredge up out of the plaster as she wedges? Part if me thinks it's harmless but I'm afraid I've ruined her table. When I've made
  7. Hi there, I thought someone here may have the answer to this frustrating issue. I have been slip casting and all of a sudden some of these molds started transfering layers of plaster to the porcelain slip after using them for some time. Some of these moulds were a couple of months old some were a couple of years but they all started doing this at the same time. I made new moulds and they started doing the same thing after about 15 casts.They all staretd ddoingit at the smae time again. Loosing fine layers of the plaster onto the porcelain slip cast clay. I have attached some imag
  8. From the album: Monoprinting with plaster

    Tile I made using a plaster slab, underglazes and porcelain casting slip, learned technique in Andrew Wandless' book 'Image Transfer on Clay' and also Joanne Veevers on CAD. This is still in greenware stage, not entirely sure how all of those colors will look as bisque and then glazed
  9. I am looking to support a biscuit fired lattice structure so i can machine it. I will then need to remove the plaster any advice appreciated. If I enclose it in paster of paris and fire it will the plaster fall away from the fired ceramic if i submerge it in water?
  10. I'm interested in experimenting with alternative porous materials suitable for slip casting, with useful properties such as flexibility, faster drying, increased durability, machinable, etc. Can anyone suggest plastics (foamed PVC, polyurethane, etc.) or other plasters (eg: Hydrostone) worth looking into? Thanks!
  11. Hi guys, I have some pieces I want to cast in plaster for a mould. The pieces will not be particularly flexible and I worry they wont release properly. Its a basic vase shape that narrows in at the top like a pair- this taper part is a 6cm diameter x 8cm long pipe that I feel the plaster will grip too tightly to release and slip out. I haven't had much luck with soft soap and I'm wondering could I rub a candle on my piece to give it a shiny and slightly slippery surface for the plaster to cast? I worry it will ruin the porosity of the mould though. Has anyone done such a thing? Ot
  12. Hi All, I have just finished making over 200# of plaster molds for our local Art Center and have come up with a few questions. This is not my first time to make , but with the quantity I made, I seemed to have a variety of different ‘problems’. I actually only ‘lost’ about 5 pieces of 50, so I feel quite successful as I do not work with plaster that often. With your help, perhaps what I perceived as ‘problems’ will not repeat in future mold attempts. For my molds I used new pottery plaster. I weighed out my water and pottery plaster, as directed with my molds, to the ratio of
  13. Hi, I am having problems with some plaster slip- casting molds that I use regularly. I made the molds in March this year and suspect I have cast into each around 30 times. Over the summer they have sat unused for two months in a dry cupboard. I have gone back to use them and I'm finding the casts are now more reluctant to pop out. They seem to be sort of sucked in there and the plaster doesn't want to release the cast. They are five part molds and sometimes just one side seems to stick on, as if it can't take the moisture out of the slip - even if the rest of the cast is relative
  14. Hello, This is my first post, so please be gentle I just finished making my first plaster wedging table, and I'm experiencing something odd. No matter how much I sand, scrape, and clean the surface, little specks of plaster are contaminating my clay as soon as it hits. I've attached a photo. As far as I can tell, I followed the instructions for mixing the #1 pottery plaster. I also vibrated the mold to remove bubbles, and I've waited several weeks for it to fully dry. Has anyone ever had this problem? I know I could switch to another surface material, but I've always preferred how
  15. Greetings all, I have been making mugs with tiki faces carved in them. I have made molds that have been working so I can reproduce them fairly quickly. The problem is that the molds chip very easily, leaving holes in the mold which then create unwanted that then have to be smoothed out after the pouring and drying. My question is: Is one plaster better or more durable than the others? I have been using pottery plaster #1. However, at my ceramics supply company that I order from I see that they have a number of different types of plaster: Plaster, Hydrocal White with 4500psi c
  16. Hi there, this is my first post on this very helpful site. I can't seem to find much information anywhere about using rubber to make mold masters for recreating slipcast molds. I have been experimenting with making rubber masters of my molds (mostly 2 to 3 piece molds). But I find that whenever I pour a new mold from the master, they don't quite fit together as well as the original. I have experimented with a few different types of rubber, but am limited to products that don't need degassing. Is there any one particular product that is recommended for use in this situation? I'
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