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Found 7 results

  1. Hello, I just came upon a medium size kiln. It was free, came with no manual or use instructions. I am a first time kiln user so I don't want to do anything without more information on this specific kiln. It is a very old Aim Ceramic Kiln with a sitter, Model K-10. Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice on this particular kiln? Thank you
  2. Help please! I have an old Paragon SNF-24 that I’ve never been able to successfully fire to cone 6. It bisques just fine. It stalls at about 1980F though. Since I’m about 115 ft from fuse box I had a #3 gauge copper wiring added, new disconnect box and hard wired the kiln. Now it stalls at @ 2080F. Electricians have tested voltage, ohms, and newish coils, new wires, barrels, etc. Never has it tripped the breaker. Just ordered ceramic blanket to add to space between kiln and floating lid to keep heat in. What am I missing? Or do I just give up?
  3. We have an old evenheat kiln that we're struggling to master. It's a 4320 model but with the 4 toggle switches and not the 4 dials. Our problem is that the top element takes way longer to heat up than the other 3. We did a paper test and initially it appeared that the top element wasn't warming up at all, after 30 seconds the lower 3 elements had all scorched their pieces of paper while the top was still unmarked. We took the cover panel off and tightened a couple of wires that appeared overly loose, one going to the top element and one going to the grounding point. The top element now at least get hot enough to scorch the paper but takes at least twice as long as the other elements. So the switch works and the element works but we're stuck as to where to go next. The only thing I can see different with the top element circuit and the others is that the top circuit includes a "therm-o-disk" which appears to be some kind of bimetallic thermostat. Could that be the cause of our issue? Or could it simply be that in this model of kiln the top element doesn't get so hot because it's at the top where all the heat rises to anyway. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. We're really struggling to get consistent glaze firings in this kiln and now there's two of us potting away going back to the small kiln would be painful, not to mention lead to further global warming.
  4. I am rebuilding an AIM Gas Kiln model 2327G (About the size of a Skutt KM1027). I'm looking for help in finding a operating manual or copy of original instructions. I called Aim and they don't have instructions for the older gas kilns anymore. I'm interested in if there were baffles originally at the bottom of the kiln to redirect the flame. It has 3 Gaco 75,000 BTU burners and is set up for Natural Gas. It's about 20 feet from my Gas meter on a 3/4" line. Any input or help would be appreciated. I intend to fire at Cone 10 reduction.
  5. I recently purchased an old Gare ( or Evenheat) Kiln model 2327. Evenheat still makes this high fire kiln but, when I searched their website they only provide a manual for their newer model of the 2327. I am looking for the manual pertaining to the older model 2327. the kiln I purchased is equipped with a kiln sitter model LT-3K which has a timer dial as well. the controller uses a series of 6 (on/off) switches to control which elements are heated, I am also looking for a firing schedule for these switches. If you have any tips or suggestions on operating and firing this kiln please feel free to add to the conversation. Any bit of information is helpful. Thanks all!
  6. Eek!!! I am supposed to be turning my work into the gallery this coming week but am having a big problem with my manual kiln (Duncan DK1020-2). It keeps tripping the breaker partway through the firing. I have successfully fired this kiln several times at cones 5/6 and my brother, the electrician, hardwired the kiln and the breaker so I know the amperage is correct. Here's the series of events as it happened: Attempt #1: I first loaded up the kiln on Wednesday night, put a cone 6 cone in the sitter and fired it up. When I checked it Thursday the sitter rod had not dropped and the kiln had tripped the breaker. In my haste had forgotten to put my witness cones in the kiln so I had no visual cues though the peepholes except my flashlight view of the glazed pieces themselves which i could tell had reached a certain level of maturity but were not quite there (cone 5 would have been acceptable). It was too hot to open the kiln and I was on a tight deadline so I opened the controller box to check the wiring. One of the connectors to the top relay popped out immediately; after checking the rest of the wiring which, to my layman's eye appeared okay, I assumed it was that the connector was loose so reattached it and reassembled the box. In the process, of course, I could not avoid having the the kiln sitter cone fall out inside the kiln. Attempt #2: In trying to keep to my schedule I determined (by guesstimate) the rate my kiln had been heating, set the temp to high and set the timer for about 6 hours; overriding the kiln sitter by taping the rod to hold the switch open. When I checked it the next day it had shut off by the timer and had not tripped the breaker. Once it had cooled and I opened it I could tell the glazes were almost there and in my estimation the kiln had reached to about cone 4 before it quit.I assumed (and hoped) I had just failed to correctly estimate the time. Since some items looked okay I figured I would remove the ones I was happy with and begin assembly to save time (they are two part birdhouses) while refiring the rest of them. After unloading it was apparent the the liner glaze had not matured so I could not salvage any of them without re-firing the lot. I took the opportunity to retouch the the glazes on a few of them. Attempt #3: Once again I loaded everything, putting in my witness cones and this time a cone 5 sitter cone and tried again. I stayed up as late as I could to keep an eye on it and it appeared to be firing though it seemed to heat a bit slower than it should. When went to bed at 1 am it had reached about 1000 degrees; I prayed it would make it through okay. Apparently I must have used up my favors with the kiln gods because when I awoke the kiln had once again tripped the breaker and I had an incomplete firing. The retouched glazes had not even started to melt.I am at my wits end since intake is this week at the gallery and they are expecting 20 birdhouses from me. I am going to have to take time off from my "real" job to photograph the pieces now since Daylight Savings is ending tonight and I'll have no daylight by the time I get home after work. This is assuming I can repair the kiln myself this weekend. Can anyone tell me how to fix this or guide me to a site/video where i can find the answer. I have looked online but have not found this exact issue. Usually a breaker trip happens immediately if there is a short according to what i have read but maybe they're wrong? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  7. Can anyone help with how to use a kiln I have acquired. It is an electric manual as far as I can tell Potterycrafts p5151 240v, 3kw On the kiln is a dial 1-100 - with no guide as to what it does. Separate but wired into kiln (can be fixed to a wall) is a dial to change between 1-1400 (temp) and also a switch which can be set to limit or soak. I can't find much help online for this so though someone might have an idea on which each dial does! Thanks!
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