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Showing results for tags 'glaze fit'.
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I’m on a really long and frustrating journey trying to find a glaze/clay match to avoid crazing. But why, time and time again, on YouTube and Instagram am I finding potters with high follower numbers and ‘JUST SOLD OUT ETSY RESTOCK’ posts who are advertising pots, which have clearly got crazing issues?? Is there a ‘generally accepted’ level of crazing one should expect? Is it ‘normal’ to hear your pottery ping when getting it out of the kiln then later pouring hot liquid in? I’ve been driving myself nuts, but it appears to not be as serious as I initially thought... am I wasting my time??
I've got this native clay that I've been working with for a couple years and it's a fantastic clay that fires beautifully to cone 04. When I first began testing this clay body i tested it at both 04 and cone 10. At cone 04 its a soft salmon color and it works great with cone 04-06 glazes. in a cone 10 gas reduction firing it turns black and seems to be too vitrified and brittle but there is no bloating. At this temperature it does not receive cone 10 glazes at all. All the test tiles I made with this clay glazed crumbled/shot off into hundreds of pieces. I know that there are some clay bodies that can be adjusted to work well at low and high fire temperatures. I'm wanting to find out what could be added to this clay body to make it a proper fit for cone 10 glazes and perhaps still work well at 04.
I know this has been posted before but I can't find the posts this am. One of my glazes cracks and drops off the pot soon after dipping. I have watered down the glaze but it is a tricky one, any drips do the above, and the rest of the glaze develops small Cracks and is friable. On a previous clay body it was fine. I know that the recipe would help here Frit 3134 50 Pot Feld 20 Ball clay C 20 Mag Carb Light 10 to which I add various colourants Tin Oxide 10 I vary this with ZIrc. for most of the deal. 1 -2 Cobalt Carb. Presuming the thickness is ok what else can I adjust?
aarrgghhh...I typed my whole spiel and the dang thing timed out and erased it all. OK-seeking a simple starter lesson on the sequence of greenware/bisque/mature fired AND with the proper sequence of underglaze and glaze relative to the firing sequence...not clear on the fit of the cone of the body and the cone of the glaze when it comes to the variables. I have read, watched videos, read more, and read again...but something is twitching in my brain to the point that I am just not "getting it" and not retaining any simple steps of what to do when. I have zip experience with commercial glazes. I had worked with cone 10 studio-made bodies, gas-fired, and sometimes, not that often, with high-fire studio-made glazes, generally very earthy, not a color palette as with commercial products. So I have no clue about low-fire underglazes and mid-fire bodies, for example. Also wondering if I can take an unglazed piece fired to cone 9 and glaze with a cone 6 glaze and re-fire at cone 6? Please do not leave me with just "test-test-test". I absolutely cannot afford to expend my precious and limited supplies/materials experimenting just to get to a basic starting point. Thanks in advance.