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Found 13 results

  1. What is the highest cone temp you have reached in your Raku kiln- ill be using Propane for the fuel source.
  2. Hey everyone! I'm in the process of creating a home studio, and I thought it would be a great idea to start making my own glazes. What are some good resources, magazines, or books that have helped you guys when it comes to introductory to advanced glaze making? Also, are there any tips or suggestions when I'm starting out! Thank you so much and any input would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I fired my kiln last night same as I have been for the last 2+ years to cone 03 usually takes about 7.26 hours, half way through I went to check the kiln and the orton sentry xpress control board displayed CPLT @ 4.11 it was still at 1400 degrees F so I waited til this morning to open it and 4 shelves of beads and pendants were completely melted i mean gone! a giant blob of glass 4 shelves deep I dont understand what happened, I fired the same as always, the control bored should have gave me an error message if it got too hot, my question is could my work have melted like this not because it g
  4. Hi I have recently purchased a Skutt 1027 Specifications: Model: KS-1027 Volts: 208 Amps: 48 PH: 1 Is it possible to upgrade it to get up to cone 10?
  5. I just got a little Firecraft P-1317 . There is no max temp anywhere on it and no documentation (only for the PerfectFire controller). It's a 240V, 20Amp, 17.5"W x 13.5"H. I have looked everywhere on the net for info. Does anyone here have an idea of what this kiln is rated for? I generally work ^6 stoneware and would like to use it for that. Any and all thoughts are greatly appreciated!
  6. Hey everyone! I recently purchased a used Cress FX27P Electric Kiln, and after bisque firing the first time with the automatic kiln sitter, I noticed that the thumbwheel does not move, and appears to have some sort of malfunction. I figured out a way to bisque firing while moving the thumbwheel manually, but I haven't tried glaze firing yet. Anybody owns this kiln or a similar version of this kiln and can help with how I can glaze fire (cone 6) by moving the thumbwheel myself? For everyone that doesn't know what the purpose of the thumbwheel is, there are numbers 0 to 10 on it, and it move
  7. Hello! New user here, I am pretty new to ceramics and just inherited my first kiln! My grandmother passed down a Duncan EA-092 kiln to me, and through internet searches and reading the manual I can not find what its maximum cone temperature is! I read somewhere that someone fired it at 019 (1220 degrees F)....which is a bit disappointing as I wanted to be able to fire at at least cone 5 for the typical clays and glazes I am used to using. I have only been using glazes and kilns through classes, so I have not had much hands on application for firing my own ceramics. My questions are,
  8. I thought I would start a new subject line rather than continuing to hijack the other one. I am trying to learn how to do some basic fine tuning of my glaze firing. I am going to start by trying to correct a pinhole issue I am having with one of my more popular glazes. I think the problem is that the temperature is dropping too quickly once reached and "freezing" the glaze before it has time to smooth out and heal over. I have a Bartlett V6-CF controller on my Olympic Kiln and I glaze fire to cone 6. With help from people over on the other subject of firing schedules (thank you!) I read th
  9. So... I've just fired my Nabertherm electric kiln (pre-loved) for the first time, for a bisque firing. I put two cone packs in - one on the bottom shelf, one near the top, with 04, 05, 06 large cones. The program was 100oC per hour to 600oC then 250oC per hour to 1000oC. I don't regularly use cones, but thought it was a good opportunity to see what the new kiln did and how the bisque firing temperature related to the Orton Cones. I've attached a photo of one of the cones packs - there was very little difference in them. Does this look as you'd expect? I'm surprised that there's such a big d
  10. Hey everybody, been doing some testing and went through my first gas firing. (click my sig link if you are interested in the firing) I thought it was a disaster but others tell me not so much. Expectations will absolutely RUIN your happiness. Anyways, I have 2 glazes that I really kinda dig. The first glaze is a leach white which is nice and I'm still doing some tuning on that. Below is an example of the leach 4-3-2-1 glaze that went through the gas firing with too much reduction and made it to cone 9. I put a sprinkling of FE203 Red Iron Oxide and a sprinkling of Rutile as well just to see w
  11. Hey guys and gals. I'm working on a white locally produced commercial claybody which is my favorite at the moment. I have 200 lbs of it to work through. It is only very lightly grogged. I am going to be doing some more testing with my own locally sourced lake clay but in the meantime I want to give this clay some more bite to it. Rather than grog, can I use silica sand or regular stream sand or something? I like the Korean's texture of the Maksabal which has just enough texture because they are using indigenous clay which is filled with impurities and is sieved leaving behind some of the bigge
  12. Is there any way to salvage a glazed piece where a witness cone melted on it!
  13. Took my kiln out of 17 year storage. Tried to fire to cone 04. Set timer to 10 hours and placed cone in kiln sitter and knob to " ceramics". It cut off at 10 hours but plate didn't drop on cone. I did have to replace the knob, as it was missing, yet it isn't quite the same as before and clicks for high fire, ceramics and overglaze are not where the wording is. I assumed the second click would be the " ceramics". What is your suggestions or knowledge on how to fix this issue with firing and/or should I buy the complete switch? Or would you think the switch is an issue? All coils are working.
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