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Found 9 results

  1. Hi everyone! I'm fairly new to glazing pottery, and have just unloaded a kiln full of pieces I had painted with underglaze, and applied a clear glaze over. Some pieces had been bisque fired with the underglaze already painted, and others were painted onto bisqueware, but all seem to have the same problem of the glaze avoiding areas where the underglaze is. In some places it has caused the underglaze to chip off, but mostly it's just all very rough feeling and patchy looking. There are a few pieces where the rough patches are a bit annoying but not too bad, but the majority have deeme
  2. Hey everybody! Brand new member but seasoned artist (to an extent). I have a very specific thought/question in mind that I cannot for the life of me find the answer to on google. I'm wanting to use some sort of high silica and/or high flux glaze to intentionally pool INSIDE the bottom of a bowl to make a sort of clear water effect. Would Shaner clear do just fine? or should I alter the recipe of some other clear glaze? Mix a whole new one? How thick can I make the glaze before it doesn't come out right? For best results should I pour it in layers or all at once? I fire at ^10 so high fire glaz
  3. I have been experimenting with gold lustre over the past six months - simply applying it over a stoneware clear glaze. I accidentally applied it to an unglazed surface on one of my pieces but I really ended up enjoying the satin finish of the gold. I tried to replicate this finish but the gold flaked! I mean...I know all gold lustre instructions say to apply to a glazed body, but I figured it looked so good on my accident then perhaps I could replicate it, right? Wrong! I am looking for either a satin or matte clear glaze to apply onto a porcelain body so that the lustre can be have more
  4. Hello all, Just inherited a 13litre tub of clear earthenware glaze (duncan). I'm not a studio potter, but a sculptor (ceramic). I'm dreaming of making lots of new glazes from this tub. So I'm looking for a list of additives ie. Silicon carbide to make it foam and thicken, Zirconium oxide to whiten, Tin to blush. I'll be adding oxides and stains. But I want more info on new weird behaving ingredients to test. Any other ideas folks? Thank you all for your expertise, your feedback has helped me learn so much : )
  5. Hi, I’m new to the world of clay so forgive me if this sounds like a silly question. I have a pot I’d like to refire (it’s gone through a cone 10 firing ) it did not have glaze, just a white clay only slip and a bit of oxides. I want to add more slip and oxides and refire but would it be okay to apply a clear glaze on top of an unfired slip?
  6. Will post pictures as soon as I get home, but I read somewhere that one does not really have to fire greenware before glazing. I understand there is a risk, and I am increasingly frustrated with the quality of the pieces coming out of my kiln. Kiln fires to Cone 6, I bisque to Cone 06. I bought a 25lb mix of the Amaco Ironstone and have been super disappointed. Switched to clear glaze (amaco mixing clear) because I started doing work with mason stains and marbeling clay bodies together, wedging nicely, and then throwing the pieces. They turned out great, but I started experimenting with di
  7. Dipped a ton of student pottery into white dipping glaze when I thought it was clear dipping glaze. Any way of taking the white glaze out without harming their work underneath?
  8. Hi everyone I am the tech at a small studio and introduced a Zakin clear (cone6) to them as a new clear glaze. They had been using Ron Meyers recipe and wanted something they could dip. It seem to be working just fine until a studio member put it over a slip colored with Raven Black mason stain. It changed from black to a rusty chocolate brown. Has anyone else run into this issue? Any advice or ideas would be great. Thanks! Slip recipe: Raven Black mason stain porcelain sodium sicate soda ash Zakin clear: Silica 18 kona F4 40
  9. From the album: Fullacreations Pottery

    Stamped slab bowl with stain under a commercial clear glaze. Formed on a hump mold.

    © craig fulladosa

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